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seized bolts

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just wondering if there is any product recommended for loosening bolts seized in aluminum

thanks

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I like Kroil products the best. Just about any product actually made for this purpose will work. WD40 isn't made for this purpose and doesn't work nearly as well.

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I like PB blaster for seized anything, it doesn't always work, but it's what I use right before the torch, torch is followed by sawzall, so basically it's two steps before giving up.

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I like PB blaster for seized anything, it doesn't always work, but it's what I use right before the torch, torch is followed by sawzall, so basically it's two steps before giving up.

+1 for the PB blaster; it worked wonders on my Jeep:thumbsup:

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PB Blastr is not bad, and is MUCH better than WD40.

WD40 STINKS as a penetrant compared to real penetrating oils.

Kroil is quite a bit better than PB-Blastr when you have Steel bolts stuck in Aluminum or any other dis-similar metals.

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Also, use an impact gun set to its' lowest setting. The impacts tend to break the bond without snapping the bolt or pulling the threads. Also the vibrations help getting the penetrant in. Anti-Seize the replacement bolts.

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If for some reason the Kroil doesn't work, try heating with a torch. Aluminum expands faster than the steel bolt so it usually works rather well.

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Heat helps no matter if similar or dissimilar metals. Not always, but often. Be careful after spraying penetrating oil followed by heat, depending on the oil, it may boil or it may stay lit like a candle, which can cause you not to worry about a stuck bolt any more.

If it doesn't work with a torch or an impact gun, the sawzall works nicely. If it's a short bolt/screw, I usually start a hole with 1/6-1/8th inch drill bit, it's easier to center, or close to center with the head still on. Then drill/cut the head off and finish the hole and tap it.

Granted, you're not going to have a perfectly positioned fastener, or if you do, you're really good, but most of the time it's close enough.

Another trick I use to center the hole, if there's a cover held on by the bolt, use the largest drill bit that will fit in the hole without making the hole bigger, spin the drill for 30 seconds or so, just long enough to get the center point, then use a 1/16-1/8th inch bit to finish drilling a pilot hole followed by enlarging the hole to the correct tap size.

Oh, one more thought, because I've done this far too many times. Periodically back the drill out, spray some chain lube or WD40 in the hole, you're not lubricating the hole, you're keeping the drill bit cool, which will make it cut better, if it feels like it's getting hard to cut, or is not cutting, stop and use a new or sharpened drill bit. I can't tell you how often I wish I would have heeded my own gut and swapped out a bit, "it's only another 1/8th inch, I can do it", followed by the bit snapping off in the hole. I even had one break off with the tip of the bit showing through the other side because of my eagerness to finish.

If you've seen them on TV, the $50 drill doctor is worth it, don't know about the other models though. It's only good for 1/8th inch and larger bits no matter what the box says.

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+1 for the PB blaster; it worked wonders on my Jeep:thumbsup:

Knock'er loose at carquest is a good replacement if you cannot find pb blaster, and the best is freeze-off, it allowed me to remove 2 stuck exhaust manifold off the jeep..... really stuck, it tried all the above mentioned solution. Spray for 20 to 30 seconds.... the few shops i went to visit know about this issue and quoted $900: remove the head and sent them to the machine shop.

Michel

83 XR350

80 DR400

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