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Sölva works suspension revalve (pic.)

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OK got tired of sending my Sölva works suspension out in the source to find a good setup, so I decided to do the job my self, all though I'm no expert, just a newbie that got tired if spending $$ on something I could do my self :)

I will start with the Fork and then move to the shock later.

My goal with the fork is to have less rebound, I'm running the rebound clicker all the way out some times. Next is to make the fork stay more up in stroke, right now I have the feeling that they are running to low.

I toke some pictures of the fork while I have it apart. It's a single camper fork with compression base bolts in the bottom and mid valve in the middle. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it is the mid-valve I will have to see at if I want less rebound ?

Overview:

http://img504.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slvaoverviewle4.jpg

Mid-valve

http://img519.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slva004wo3.jpg

Base compression:

http://img247.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slvabasecompressionvh5.jpg

The mid-valve piston have drilled to bleed holes on each side of the piston, what's the the benefits of doing this?

Mid-valve piston:

http://img396.imageshack.us/my.php?image=slvamidvalvepistonqs1.jpg

I have listed up the shim stacks, in hope of someone have some inputs on how I can achieve want I want (less reound and keep the fork more up in stroke)

Sölva Fork (0.43kg springs)

450 ml oil

Base Valve ”bottom”

Washer

Spring

3 – 12 x 0.20 (8mm inner dia.)

21 x 0.25 (8mm inner dia.)

22 x 0.20 (8mm inner dia.)

Piston

7 – 18 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

11 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

17 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

16 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

15 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

14 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

13 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

12 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

11 x 0.20 (6mm inner dia.)

10 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

10 x 0.20 (6mm inner dia.)

Mid Valve (all 6mm inner dia.)

11 x 0.1

12 x 0.1

13 x 0.1

14 x 0.1

15 x 0.1

16 x 0.1

17 x 0.1

18 x 0.1

19 x 0.1

13 x 0.1 – crossover

5 – 21 x 0.1

Piston

3 – 22 x 0.1

2 – 20 x 0.1

14 x 0.15

2 – 11 x 0.25

20 x 0.25

Spring

Bang

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I re-formatted this a bit so it follows "our" convention...

Rebound (all 6mm inner dia.)

11 x 0.1

12 x 0.1

13 x 0.1

14 x 0.1

15 x 0.1

16 x 0.1

17 x 0.1

18 x 0.1

19 x 0.1

13 x 0.1 – crossover

5 – 21 x 0.1

Piston

Mid-valve

3 – 22 x 0.1

2 – 20 x 0.1

14 x 0.15

2 – 11 x 0.25

20 x 0.25

Spring

There are two ways to do this, which is best is up to you to find out through tetsing? Either start by removing (1) or (2) 21x.1 face shims or remove all the even number shims (12/14/16/18)?

I'm guessing this is a 24mm cartridge?

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Thanks for doing that.

By removing face shims or the even numbered shims, this will allow some less rebound, right?

I will have to measure the cartridge tomorrow.

So if I want to make the fork stay more up in stroke, I will need to stiffen up the "bottom" base compression stack (please correct if this isn't the right name) ?

Bang

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to stiffen the base i would move the cross over to between the 16 and 15mm shims.

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Base Valve ”bottom”

Washer

Spring

3 – 12 x 0.20 (8mm inner dia.)

21 x 0.25 (8mm inner dia.)

22 x 0.20 (8mm inner dia.)

Piston

7 – 18 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

11 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.) <-- this one??

17 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

16 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

15 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

14 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

13 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

12 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

11 x 0.20 (6mm inner dia.)

10 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

10 x 0.20 (6mm inner dia.)

Would this make the fork ride higher?

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yep, thats the one, and the bleed holes on the mid are there to stop cavitation behind the piston, you say these are works forks? what year are they for? its just they are pretty with all the anodising but are old fashioned in design.

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1. What do you weigh?

2. Bike?

3. Type of riding & skill level?

These make a big difference in how to fix a "low" riding fork...a 4-stroke requires more mid-valve influence & either stiffer springs or more preload than a 2-stroke.

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Thanks for doing that.

By removing face shims or the even numbered shims, this will allow some less rebound, right?

Bang

Yes...generally we figure the face shims will effect the clicker setting and the rest of the stacks "taper", think U or V shaped, effects the high-speed damping...

The smaller the cartridge diameter, the stiffer the stack or steeper/more U shaped, the stack will need to be. But that also depends on the size of the ports in the piston. :)

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mog: don't know if "works" is the correct word. This suspension is available to the public, as KYB works, öhlins, Pro Circuit Showa. I guess works suspension is not available to the public :)

Don't know if the design of newer Sölva suspension used on GP bikes is much different.

The forks are 2004 model, shock 2006. So I guess this is why the old design.

1. 85 kg (with gear)

2. Honda crf 250 2008

3. only mx, not sure about the classes in the US, but I believe I'm what you call a good b-rider.

I have no bottoming problems after I played with oil heights.

Bang

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Assemble the mid-valve without the check-spring and measure how much clearance (float) it has...

Mid-valve

3 – 22 x 0.1

2 – 20 x 0.1

14 x 0.15

2 – 11 x 0.25

20 x 0.25

Spring

IMO your springs are too soft though...

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I'll have to measure the float and cartridge tomorrow.

Maybe I should try stiffer spring with less oil?

I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help and explain me this, thanks.

Bang

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I'll have to measure the float and cartridge tomorrow.

Maybe I should try stiffer spring with less oil?

I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help and explain me this, thanks.

Bang

Just looked the mid-valve picture again. Probably a 28mm cartridge? So if the cartridge rod is 12mm it's pretty close to the same as the 07/08 WP "woods" fork just different pistons?

If you put .45 springs in it the rebound might be OK...maybe use 2.5wt oil also?

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Base Valve ”bottom”

Washer

Spring

3 – 12 x 0.20 (8mm inner dia.)

21 x 0.25 (8mm inner dia.)

22 x 0.20 (8mm inner dia.)

Piston

7 – 18 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

11 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.) <-- this one??

17 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

16 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

15 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

14 x 0.1 (6mm inner dia.)

13 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

12 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

11 x 0.20 (6mm inner dia.)

10 x 0.15 (6mm inner dia.)

10 x 0.20 (6mm inner dia.)

Would this make the fork ride higher?

I would remove that 11.1 and pull 2 face shims off the rebound stack. Set your mid float at .15mm, no more than .2mm and test. You will notice a difference.

Also unless your really light, you need stiffer fork springs.

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I would remove that 11.1 and pull 2 face shims off the rebound stack. Set your mid float at .15mm, no more than .2mm and test. You will notice a difference.

Also unless your really light, you need stiffer fork springs.

Looks like a winner to me!!! :)

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Looks like a winner to me!!! :)

Hate to be a copy cat but.........that does sound like a great start:ride:

Maybe someone can tell him the "tie down" trick! I miss the OC`s:cry:

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I would remove that 11.1 and pull 2 face shims off the rebound stack. Set your mid float at .15mm, no more than .2mm and test. You will notice a difference.

Also unless your really light, you need stiffer fork springs.

Ok I will start by removing the shims and setting my float.

You mean if I have a really light stack, I will need stiffer springs?

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Lets not forget he has the rebound all the way out-once he softens the rebound stack he will run the clicker in more, that means less compression bleed, he has no real problems with the compression other than it riding low, i would now advise this

springs for your weight

rebound mods

and thats it, if you put stiffer springs and a stiffer stack, and less bleed due to a softer rebound if will be plenty higher in the stroke, to alter compression at the same time will make it way too hard IMO.

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Ok I will start by removing the shims and setting my float.

You mean if I have a really light stack, I will need stiffer springs?

No I was refering to "your" weight, you may need stiffer springs.

So? how much do you weigh and what is the std. float setting on these forks?

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Lets not forget he has the rebound all the way out-once he softens the rebound stack he will run the clicker in more, that means less compression bleed, he has no real problems with the compression other than it riding low, i would now advise this

springs for your weight

rebound mods

and thats it, if you put stiffer springs and a stiffer stack, and less bleed due to a softer rebound if will be plenty higher in the stroke, to alter compression at the same time will make it way too hard IMO.

It really depends on what the std. float on these forks is set to, to see what if any compression changes will be made? Going from full out on rebound back in to say 12 out is a small change in bleed vs 12out to 4 out(big difference) so the compression bleed change will be slight and not a big worry. The most important part is to get rid of those 11.1's and that 2 stage stack, it has no place in moto and is a big contributor to fork dive.

so lets see where his stock float is set at, and how much he weighs?

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