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My "new" 93' CR250

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Ive been wanting to get back into riding for quite some time but just didnt have the money to spend on a bike at this point in my life (college student). A cusion had a neglected 93' CR250 that I picked up for $385. After giving it a good going over I have a list of things that needs replaced that shouldn't run me much over $250 buying a few used parts. Im very excited to get back into the sport! First thing I did was go and pick up a clymer service manual to walk me through some of the maintanence procedures.

Engine compression feels very strong and I was told the bike ran before I bought it but lack of muffler and a cracked fuel tank I didn't get a chance to hear it run before I purchased it. On the bottom of the carb there is a nipple which appears a hose should be connected to - see photo. What goes here?

devojbon-nipple.JPG

The chain guide on the bike does not seem to be big enough. It does not look to sag far enough to be able to ever have supported the lower portion of the chain. The chain looks to have been rubbing on the aluminum portion of the guide so I was planning to replace the guide, chain, and both sprockets. Does the guide need replaced?

devojbon-chain.JPG

Any more tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Devin

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That is your the over flow for the carb. If gas drips out of that, your float leve l could need some attention or needle seat could have debris not allowing the valve to seat.

It should have a hose on that nipple so if it does drain it drains out the bottom and not all over the motor.

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definetly replace that guide looks like the chain chewed up the bottom of it. for the carb if i remember correctly that overflow nipple requires a 1/8 carb hose that you can get from a dealer.

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Those two just answered your question. Yeah in its current form that chain guide isn't doing a thing, looks like the chain chewed clean through it like jets said. You should be able to find a pic of the overflow hose routing in your manual. Probably runs down the right frame down tube then behind the swing arm pivot.

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That is your the over flow for the carb. If gas drips out of that, your float leve l could need some attention or needle seat could have debris not allowing the valve to seat.

It does drip out a little. When I brought it home (about an hour and a half drive) the fuel was left on and there was a spot about the size of a mini basketball underneath the bike. I traced it back up to that nipple. What parts would you suggest I buy to fix this problem?

What will happen if I leave it as is?

thanks,

devin

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At least put a hose on it. Replace that chain guide. You'll pay the price if you dont. You might be able to go with an after market guide. It might be cheaper that a OEM. Replace the chain roller. Thats a cheap part.

Remember, this is your baby. Take care of her. If you get out on a trail thats a few miles from camp and she breaks down because of something you chose not fix, you'll be kicking your own butt for not fixing it.

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Oh yeah, I was just curious about what parts to replace for the carburator to solve the dripping problem when the bike is upright.

The following parts are what I feel it needs to be a reliable ride

Front and rear sprockets

chain

chain guide

Upper chain roller

Kick starter (has a ton of play, impossible to keep foot on it after 1 kick)

Shift lever (again, tons of play)

Gas Tank

Air Filter

Front wheel bearings

Front break pads

muffler

And of course since I bought it used Im not sure the last time it was serviced so I plan to flush the coolant, change the tranny oil, and replace the brake fluid.

After looking at some other chain guides it looks like the aluminum should go all the way around the bottom of the chain and the plastic is the buffer between the aluminum and the chain? So mine evedently wore clear through the plastic then through the aluminum housing?

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After looking at some other chain guides it looks like the aluminum should go all the way around the bottom of the chain and the plastic is the buffer between the aluminum and the chain? So mine evedently wore clear through the plastic then through the aluminum housing?

Exactly. From the picture the rub through is so clean it seems like your chain guide is supposed to look like that, but there should be a thick plastic buffer and the aluminum on the bottom of the guide.

It does drip out a little. What will happen if I leave it as is?

Check your manual, you should be able to adjust the float level so it doesn't drip gas, the manual should give you some tolerances to set it at. You will need the bike running to fine tune your jetting.

I'm not a jetting expert but I think if you ran the bike with the float level as is it would be getting too much fuel and wouldn't run right and would be hard to start. If it did run it would be too rich, and would bog and foul plugs

Shift lever (again, tons of play)

Where are you getting the play, is the lever itself loose on the spline? If the spline coming out of the transmission is so wore out the lever wont fit on it, you'll probably have to replace it. If the lever fits tightly on the spline but there is a little play up and down when shifting thats normal. If you have to move the shifter a substantial amount up and down to shift there is something wrong internally.

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Where are you getting the play, is the lever itself loose on the spline? If the spline coming out of the transmission is so wore out the lever wont fit on it, you'll probably have to replace it. If the lever fits tightly on the spline but there is a little play up and down when shifting thats normal. If you have to move the shifter a substantial amount up and down to shift there is something wrong internally.

The play is in between the splines on the lever and the shaft. The shaft going into the tranny looks to be firm just the lever around the splines is loose as a goose.

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I found one similar to the IMS made by So Cal Motorsports. $12.95 or best offer on ebay, looks like a quality unit, I offered them $10.

Solid, I won it. $14.95 shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130191494132

Looks like its going to need a coat of paint though

After further review the shaft does not have any play up/down or left/right but it does slide in/out a good 1/8". Is this normal?

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Yes that is normal I think. If you look inside the RHS engine cover at the other end of the shaft you will see why there is side to side play in the shaft. The shaft will be fine as long as the new lever has sufficient splines left to tighten onto. I had a CR80 like that once - you had to make sure you kept the lever tight or it would work itself loose once in a while.

Regarding the back chain slider, make sure you get a sprocket in the range 48-52 teeth. Much bigger will cause premature wear of the new slider.

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good news. I was planning to run the stock 13 and 50 tooth sprockets, should be good starting point for this noob.

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