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Rear wheel locks up when braking

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Hey again :)

Just got my 1977 dt250 up and running and was testing everything out. When using the rear brake, even at low speeds (say 10-15mph), while applying very little pressure to the rear brake, the wheel will lock up and i will go into a skid. I am applying much less pressure on the rear brake than on the front brake. I was wondering if this is a sign of very worn rear brake shoes? The bike is 30 years old and I have no idea if the brakes have ever been changed. I can pick up some new shoes for it on ebay for ~20$

Let me know what you guys think

Thanks in advance

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pull off the wheel and look. may be metal to metal. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ drums young man

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pull off the wheel and look. may be metal to metal. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ drums young man

That was my first thought, but i do not have the tools to take the wheel off. I am going to get new tires for the bike anyways and i figured when i bring it to the shop i would just tell them to throw the new brakes in as well

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The hub is loose.It will rotate as the brakes are applied thus making it brake more.(Poor mans power brakes)

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The hub is loose.It will rotate as the brakes are applied thus making it brake more.(Poor mans power brakes)

so how is this fixed?

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Make sure the correct bolts are used on the torque rod. When the bolts are inserted to the rod and the hub and the rod and swingarm, there should be little to no play, then slightly tighten the nuts. Forgive me if my memory is weak but if there is no torque rod and the brake backing plate has a groove that fits on a tab on the swing arm and there is a lot of play, there is not a lot you can do about it. Now with both styles, the axle should not be fully tightened yet, just cinched up a bit. With the brake applied, rock the bike back and forth, the backing plate should be just able to move. Roll the bike forward, slam on the back brake, tighten the axle. The axle will clamp the backing plate too and prevent movement. You want the plate to already be in the forward position.

If the brake is still ridiculously powerful (as they all were back then, LOL, a bigger brake than on the front in some cases), you can try grinding away some of the pad material. We used to cut diagonal slots in, to help channel water out and reduce braking efficiency. Be sure to not remove material from the leading or trailing edges of the shoes.

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Try to loosen the tension rod nut up a little. I'm not familiar with that bike, but maybe you have the brake set too stiff so any pressure will cause the pads to lock up the wheel.

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