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Rejet complete on my '09 KLX250S + a few pics

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Tonight me and my dad (Danoman) rejetted the carburetor and removed the airbox snorkel on my '09 KLX-250S. Used the DynoJet kit #2152, went with the 128 main jet, 2 3/4s turns out on the A/F screw. Definately made a big difference. Lots more power accross the powerband, especially from idle through midrange. Getting down on it will lighten the front end, haven't tried to lift it yet as I'm a noob-tard and 10:30 at night probably isn't the time to try. But it made a huge difference I can tell already. Also the intake noise is crazy! Not that it matters, but the bike really roars when you give it the gas, definately sounds more like a dirt bike now.

Next up is saving my lunch money for a full Muzzy exhaust.

Couple pics from the evening:

th_carburetor.jpg

th_naked.jpg

And a couple recent pics of the bike. Don't really see many KLX-250 folks postin' their '09s over here at TT.

th_mybike.jpg

th_stickers.jpg

th_stickers2.jpg

th_bike3.jpg

th_bike4.jpg

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thanks for the info..what elevation do you ride at.??

We're basically at sea level (~80 feet above, if you like to be exact).

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I just completed the airbox mod on my DRZ (3x3 as us DRZ'ers call it) and rejet, and boy did it make a difference. My friend has a '09 KLX250s and wants to give it a go after noticing the improvement it gave my bike. On the 250, do you just remove the snorkel? No cutting other than that?

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Next up is saving my lunch money for a full Muzzy exhaust.

Couple pics from the evening:

good looking bike. glad you are on your way with the mods. might be time for you to work on trimming that rear fender contraption Kawi sent oem. Or maybe learning how to wheelie might take care of its bulklyness for you. :doh:

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glad to see another green klx the green ones are faster I rejeted and

uncorked it made a good improvment over stock over the winter

I installed a new fcr carb with some porting and exsaust bike rips

Now good luck with yours see my pics at my garage

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I just completed the airbox mod on my DRZ (3x3 as us DRZ'ers call it) and rejet, and boy did it make a difference. My friend has a '09 KLX250s and wants to give it a go after noticing the improvement it gave my bike. On the 250, do you just remove the snorkel? No cutting other than that?

I just removed the snorkel. If you pull off the whole lid, it runs too lean. Some guys pull the whole lid and have good luck but my bike stuttered and learched from being too lean. I ride at ~100 feet ASL and I'm running a 128 main with a TwinAir filter. Lotta guys are running a 124 in higher altitudes.

My dad rides a DRZ400 and did the 3x3 mod :doh: DRZ > KLX... hopefully Suzuki still makes it when I pay off my KLX, or my dad hasn't ragged his out by then.

good looking bike. glad you are on your way with the mods. might be time for you to work on trimming that rear fender contraption Kawi sent oem. Or maybe learning how to wheelie might take care of its bulklyness for you.
Those pics are VERY old... from last summer. I've trimmed the fender, tucked in the rear turn signals, put on the ProTaper bar (in GOOOLD)... more stickers... 47-tooth rear sprocket... GOOOLD chain... Dunlop 606 tires (that I've already worn out after 3K miles). Click on "My Garage" for the newer-ish pics.

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talking about 09 mods.after doing some of these mods like the dj jetting 128 main.twin air,slip on ,and airlid removal,i first tried with snorkel pulled out.it was very slighty slowing then getting back to speed extremely minimal.not even 1 klm in speed difference.like surging but not getting faster but slowing.one thing i did notice was it was a lot quicker from about mid to top like a powerband almost.i was getting this bike to 148-149klm per hr down a slight hill flat out .i took lid right off and it just seemed louder and maybe getting too much air.need to ride it a bit more as weather here has been raining extremely badly.like approx 500mm in days.flooding badly accross region.

but what im more worried about is the low end. its just noticably weaker now. i thought it may have just been the fact that it was faster from mid to top.but it is definately weaker down low

to the point where i was stopped at a stop sign on a hill.kinda sideways on the hill not facing up hill so much. and when i went to take off using the same amount of power/throttle that i would have normally needed before.

instead it was weak as. and the bike didnt really move and ended up leaning over too far, quickly down the hill side because i was relying on the momentum of the take off and ended up straining my leg trying to hold the bike up.felt like i pulled something in the back of leg.im not that tall and bike isnt set up for my height yet.been trying to get more speed out of it so far

i know i probably should have tried to just gas it more but i really wasnt expecting it all.and would have probably dropped the bike as i was struggling getting off balance down the hill and i wouldnt have really been able to control it if i had of gassed it

i finding im having to give it more throttle just to take off now as it is weaker in the low end.and i know i didnt have to do that so much before.

has anyone else had this weaker low end problem before and if so what was it a result of.

im thinking its because of too many mods that have aided the top end making the low end suffer. or is it just getting too much air or ???.need advice here

when i work out how to post pics i will put up a pic of my 09 klx250s with all its mods.im liking the bike a lot more now its quicker but not happy about some of the consecquences of the changes ive done.

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I just removed the snorkel. If you pull off the whole lid, it runs too lean. Some guys pull the whole lid and have good luck but my bike stuttered and learched from being too lean. I ride at ~100 feet ASL and I'm running a 128 main with a TwinAir filter. Lotta guys are running a 124 in higher altitudes.

My dad rides a DRZ400 and did the 3x3 mod :doh: DRZ > KLX... hopefully Suzuki still makes it when I pay off my KLX, or my dad hasn't ragged his out by then.

I have been ragging out my '03 since it was new. It still runs like a champ. I can't see Suzuki discontinuing it any time soon. It is too popular. Plus, they have the only 30ish HP dual sport on the market except for the euro bikes, which are a whole different animal.

Anyways, so is there a general consensus on this board about modifying the airbox? On the KLX you can remove the snorkel, or remove the snorkel and lid, but either way there is no cutting?

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Nobody I have heard of, here or at KawasakiForums, has cut the airbox lid. Its either no snorkel, no lid, or high-flow KDX snorkel.

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Nobody I have heard of, here or at KawasakiForums, has cut the airbox lid. Its either no snorkel, no lid, or high-flow KDX snorkel.

Gotcha. I don't have the bike here, or I would have looked at it. I didn't realize the lid was removable.

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Yeah its four 10 mm bolts, that's how you get to the air filter. The snorkel comes out with a little elbow grease but its just rubber into the rubberize plastic lid. Another thing the DRZ has us beat on... those quick release things to get to the airbox... whereas the KLX requires seat removal and 6 bolts. Lemme know if you need pics or something, I've got pics of everything I've done to my KLX.

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My dealer supplied me with a KLX300 jet kit (2206) instead of the 2009 250s kit (2152), and as far as I can tell, the main difference is that the 300 kit recommends drilling a larger hole in the slide lift hole, versus including a lighter slide spring which is in the 250 kit.

Are these just two different ways to accomplish the same thing? Any thoughts on which way is better? Clearly people have been using the 300 kit with no ill effect.

Would I be missing out on anything if I skipped the drilling or spring entirely, and simply put in the new needle and main jet? Or should I simply return the 300 kit and get the 250 kit?

Thoughts?

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The idea is that the slide will lift faster resulting in better throttle response. To do this you can either drill out the vacuum port (hole in the slide) to increase the "speed" at which the vacuum is sensed or use a lighter spring which results in less resistance to the diaphram lifting up the slide. I have an 09 250. I removed the air box snorkle,drilled the slide port (7/64") used an N1TC needle (third groove) a 122 main jet (thinking about trying a 128, I ride between 1000-4000ft ABSL) and drilled out the plug covering the idle mixture screw and set it to 2.5 turns from fully out. This set up is quite a bit more affordable than either jetting kit and results in a noticeable improvement. However don't expect a "dramatic" improvement, no matter which route you go. If you want to improve off road performance I would also recommend a 13 tooth C/S sprocket.

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My dealer supplied me with a KLX300 jet kit (2206) instead of the 2009 250s kit (2152), and as far as I can tell, the main difference is that the 300 kit recommends drilling a larger hole in the slide lift hole, versus including a lighter slide spring which is in the 250 kit.

Are these just two different ways to accomplish the same thing? Any thoughts on which way is better? Clearly people have been using the 300 kit with no ill effect.

Would I be missing out on anything if I skipped the drilling or spring entirely, and simply put in the new needle and main jet? Or should I simply return the 300 kit and get the 250 kit?

Thoughts?

Either kit is a win-win... I doubt you would notice any difference between the two kits, so I'd say stick with the kit that you have been supplied with.

Roadglider already answered your question on the spring vs. slide; they accomplish the same thing so do one or the other :worthy:

I felt a noticeable difference in power when I did my jetting.... changing sprockets doesn't add power it just changes the delivery of the power.... and yes, if you ride any serious trails, changing the sprockets makes a huge difference.

I'd recommend against just springing for a 13-tooth like everybody SAYS to do... figure out how low you wanna go and just buy the appropriate sprockets/chain at the same time... rather than $15 on a sprocket once.... then $15 on another cause you've halfway worn THAT sprocket... plus then the chain and rear sprocket. Figure out what you wanna do and then do it all at once, save yourself $15 :banana:

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Thanks for the very quick responses... I'll just drill the slide... too bad that DJ only includes such basic instructions and drawings versus real photos... You would think that if real owners can post such expansive detail on forums like this that a company that get's PAID to sell said product could do a little better !!!

On the gearing, I'm not changing anything yet until I see how it works with the kind of riding I'll be doing. I've got street for street and dirt for dirt, but this is the first DS I've ever had. So far so good.

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Opps once again I can't seem to proof read my own writing. I wrote "set it to 2.5 turns from fully out" I meant from fully seated or in.

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I've got my screw at like 2.25... and I'm wondering if I'm too lean at idle b.c. its a BIA to start when hot... not sure if its my jetting or the fact its 100 degrees every afternoon. Gotta use throttle every time I start it.

Definately its a compromise. Stock gearing is great for up and down the road but it sucks on any type of trail. Throw on a big sprocket in the back and its a dream on the trails, but 60 MPH is about the fastest you're gonna run it. Just gotta figure out which you wanna do more :worthy: A 47 or 48-tooth rear is a great compromise IMHO... still can do 60 but you got the low-end spin you need. 13/45 is the same as 14/48, just another thing to ponder :banana:

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I believe stock is 14/42. I'm going to try a 43 on the rear. Most any dirt bike magazine test they recommend adding a single tooth to the rear to tighten up the ratios between gears.

Having a blast with the bike for now. Starting to get used to the seat.

Added some Dunlop decals to the fork protectors on the bottom. Had to trim the shape a little as they were not exact fits, but they look great. (I think it's faster now...)

Similar to this: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/viewLargerImage.do?stockId=192534&navType=type#OtherImages

Gotta keep mine a little different than the rest!!!

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Honestly, you're not going to notice much difference between a 42 and a 43 tooth rear sprocket... the bike is geared entirely too tall out of the crate. Just ride it in stock form for a while and figure out which you're going to do more of (dirt or street). I've got a 47-tooth rear and some days I wish I had a 48 :worthy:

Fork skins for the win :banana:

th_forkguards.jpg

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