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Need advice...

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Ok so I'm getting close to where I want my bike to be, but still have a LOOOOONG way to go.

My bike is a 2000 DRZ 400 kicker, made into street legal SM by use of an Edge tail light, BD brake light switch and an economy horn. I'm still running the stock headlight and no blinkers. Also added was a Vapor computer.

When I was figuring out how to wire my brake light in, I had my voltage meter out and noticed that the bike is running around 6 volts variable, one making my horn sound HORRIBLE (dying dolphin sounding!) When I rev the bike you cant even hear the horn, and not because the noise, but because voltage drops. The headlight is on, but not the brightest thing at night (kinda pulses) and the vapor is now mounted into the power and it does the same. I'm thinking about this

201195.jpg

http://denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=208708&store=Main&catId=116&productId=p201468&leafCatId=&mmyId=1941

But will it help? I'm def interested in the fact that is says that it will be eaiser to start seeing as my bike is only a kicker! (I know you can't imagine how it is for all you elec start guys!)

If you can think of something better PLEASSSSEEE tell me! :)

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have you checked to see if the battery is good? alot of the DRZ batteries go bad after a few years use.

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There's no battery... Its a kick start offroad only model.

As far as the stator goes, I'm not sure.... I know the stators good though...

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the performance IGN module wont help your lighting and horn problem. your bike cant produce a constant voltage with out a battery of some sort. baja designs makes small regulators/rectifiers and battery packs for running lights. or you can try a large condenser like those used on the rmz 450 fuel injection. i don't know if it will work:excuseme: but its worth a shot. also the module will help a little bit, but only worth the extra $$$ if you build the motor for the higher revs. lighter valve train, ligher flywheel, high compresion. all those modules do is raise the rev limiter and change the ignition curve.

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Well the problem is that BD doesn't make anything for my model. They make all kinds of stuff for the DrZ 400E (w/battery) but not the DR 400Z aka DRZ 400 (w/o battery)

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so your wonting the bike to perform like a SM but your not willing to add the battery and the better stater / flywheel / RR / and wiring harnus ????

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just because BD doesn't list your bike. doesn't mean it wont work. electricty works the same no matter what type of bike you have. just get a single phase reg/rec. a small battery pack BD sell. its like a bunch on AA wired together. run your lighting coil wire to the reg/rec and your lights and horn off the battery.

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so your wanting the bike to perform like a SM but your not willing to add the battery and the better stator / flywheel / RR / and wiring harness ????

Thats why I'm here! I'm trying to figure out what will fix it! (And to fix your spelling errors... :D )

One reason I bought this model was for the weight savings of not having a battery or electric start at the sacrifice of having to kick it, not to mention the better carb and other goodies that come on the off-road only models. So actually it performs better than a SM! :worthy:

Considering that in the 5 weeks I've had the bike I've: 1) made it street legal by use of an Edge tail light/economy horn and BD brake light switch 2) replaced all the plastic 3) changed to a Acerbis 4.2 gal gas tank. 4) changed to a Warp9 SM setup with Distanzias (sp?) 5) added a Trail Tech Vapor computer 6) MCCT on order 7)Thumper Talk ignition and clutch cover ordered 8) Had front suspension rebuilt, re-valved and re-sprung and rear suspension re-valved and recharged.

I actually have many many more plans for it. IE big bore, cams, full exhaust, Hinson clutch, etc...

I also plan on racing it in Austin Tx at the AMA supermoto *of course on Amateur day* :)

I think I've done a lot for 5 weeks, so don't try and tell me that I'm not doing anything less of performance and reliability .

just because BD doesn't list your bike. doesn't mean it wont work. electricty works the same no matter what type of bike you have. just get a single phase reg/rec. a small battery pack BD sell. its like a bunch on AA wired together. run your lighting coil wire to the reg/rec and your lights and horn off the battery.

Will that be enough to run a high beam/low beam setup and possible blinkers at a later date? Right now I think I wired to many things in line... When I put in the BD ignition key switch, I used the old kill switch for the horn, which is routed into the same power source of the lights, which I also used to power the Vapor.. LOL... I hit the horn to test it out and it reset my vapor!

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if you want to keep it as light as possible i would try the condenser off the rmz they weight less than a few ounces. and you don't need a reg/rec to run it. i'm just not sure it will work.

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Thats why I'm here! I'm trying to figure out what will fix it! (And to fix your spelling errors... :) )

Good luck with that iowaBClivewire's spelling and grammar makes me look look like an English professor. I get a kick out of reading his post and trying to figure out what the hell he is trying to say. Keep it coming I need a good challenge and sometimes a chuckle while reading this board.

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You basically need something to store power up. You can't use the SM, S, or E flywheel on a kick only DRZ. Also, the stator puts out a little less too, I think.

You can take a look at this. You may be able to get something out of it.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195788

Ok who knows about this: 1 4700uF Capacitor in place of battery for good DC regulation.

It was in the link that kman posted and sounds like something I need!

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so your wonting the bike to perform like a SM but your not willing to add the battery and the better stater / flywheel / RR / and wiring harnus ????

My Dad was from Iowa and he couldn't spell either. Spelled Flamingo b-i-r-d!

He used to say "you knew what I meant, didn't ya'!?" And yes, we did understand what he was trying to write. When we worked together I wouldn't let any of his correspondence go out without me proofing it.

I think he had Dyslexia back in the day when no one knew what it was. He got a scholarship to college flinging a pigskin anyway and back then he didn't even have to show up for class and still got passed.👍

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Dyslexia --- yep DAD and I both have that

my computer even reads to me

so sorry but yet I'm not sorry

just trying my best ... I'm 35 years old and the past 5 years with this computer reading to me and getting on forums/ chat rooms has graitly inpruved my reading to the point ware I'm not required to swing a hammer at work aney more

the sad part is there are guys that slipped thrue the cracks in school and now I end up helping them

helped a guy understand his check book last week ---- that took 3 days to drill into his head that he was smart enef to do it only 3 hours to really teach him

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the voltage on a kicker should not drop when you rev the bike.it should go up to about 14 votls just like the toher models.

it has a charging problem.either the stator or reg /rect has a issue or simply a connection issue at the reg/rect plug.

the kicker comes stock with a capacitor.however horns and turn signal relays will require a battery to stabilize the system for them to work correctly.

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Hiya, Ive got a road legal 2000 Kicker (and love it!!) and as Eddie says it should put out 12 -14 volts. I have a rear stop and tail, horn and a dual filament headlight, all run fine without a battery, but I don't have turn signals. The stator should push out 150watts. Mine has a condenser behind the headlight (standard) and a rectifier. I'd get a multimeter if I were you and start by measuring what the stator is kicking out then go from there.

I had a problem with blowing rear bulbs but that was the exhaust pulse firing right onto the rear plate!

Dan

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