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XT350A or XT350AC Reduced Efect?

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I just bought an 89 XT350 and Im not sure if it's an A or AC. Is the A the 27 horse power and the AC the 17 horse power reduced efect? Also what is the reduced efect all about, why would you want that? Can you tell by the VIN number?

I got it for $500 and it has 2500 miles on it but it has been in storage for 14 years. I have put new tires on it and changed the oil and put a new battery in it.The gas tank was empty and doesn't seem to have any rust. I put some gas in it and I pulled the spark plug and it looks good. I pulled the valve cover and put a little bit of oil on the valve lifters and cams. I also put a little shot of two cycle oil in the cylinder and turned the engine over a few times before starting it. It started right up but it has a loud valve noise, dry lifters maybe?

So what's next can the lifters be rebuilt or am I looking at needing to replace them?

Thanks,

Dan

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The AC is a California version. The only difference between the A and AC is the fuel evap stuff and the carb on the AC.

The carb is jetted a little leaner and it has a line running to the evap canister.

The the gas cap is unvented, and the tank has a roll-over valve in the vent that goes to the evap canister.

The evap canister is a small black cylinder attached to the left side of the frame in front of the air box. If you have one, you have an AC.

THEY NEVER SOLD THE 17hp XT350 IN NORTH AMERICA.

Crack open the top of the oil line and make sure you are getting oil to the top end.

Clean out the oil screen on the bottom of the engine. many people never do this and it may be clogged up and starving the top end.

The valves may need to be adjusted. while you(or whoever) is in there, replace the valve seals. They may have dried out from storage. It's normal to have a little valve clatter on an XT350 though.

Replace the intake boots. They are or will soon be leaking after that many years of storage.

Do a search on XT350 in Vintage and Dual sport. There is a bunch of good info.

Other stuff.

Change the fork oil and seals.

Grease the steering stem and the rear suspension.

How may miles are on it?

How about some 'Before' Pix.

I have a XT350AC that I rebuilt after about 15 years storage also.

Good luck and have fun!

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Thanks Jason, sounds like some good advice. The oil was pretty gunky so I will clean the screen. It would definitly be an A since it was originaly sold in Durham NC, and that's good news about the 17 hp reduced effect.

I will probably have the valves adjusted this time. I have done it myself lots of times with push rods and rockers but I'm not sure what to do on the double overhead cam. I plan to order a Clymer shop manual, so I can do it myself in the future.

I was planning on changing the fork oil and I'm sure it would be a good idea to change the seals. I am also rebuilding the front brake. The brake fluid looked like mud and the master cylinder was working when I started flushing it but it quickily died so I have ordered a mastercylinder kit.

It has 2500 miles on it and it has some rust, and corosion on the engine cooling fins. It looks like it sat outside for a while probably while it was in North Carolina since things don't usualy rust or corode much here in Colorado. The previous owner had it in a shed for the last ten years near Breckenridge. I will post some before pictures soon but I already changed out the handle bars before I took a picture. The original bars were way bent and I had a set of Renthal aluminum bars so I put them on.

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The brake fluid looked like mud and the master cylinder was working when I started flushing it but it quickily died so I have ordered a mastercylinder kit.

I just did mine too. They have been mushy for a while and I finally got sick of it. I'm going to have a stainless line made too. You can see it swell when you squeeze the brake it's so worn out.

It has 2500 miles on it and it has some rust, and corosion on the engine cooling fins. It looks like it sat outside for a while probably while it was in North Carolina since things don't usualy rust or corode much here in Colorado. The previous owner had it in a shed for the last ten years near Breckenridge.

You definitely need to change the intake boots then. Corrosion is what usually delaminates them. Time kills these more than use.

I will post some before pictures soon but I already changed out the handle bars before I took a picture. The original bars were way bent and I had a set of Renthal aluminum bars so I put them on.

That's OK, I know what an XT with bent bars looks like.👍

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Crack open the top of the oil line and make sure you are getting oil to the top end.

Clean out the oil screen on the bottom of the engine. many people never do this and it may be clogged up and starving the top end

Well I checked the oil line to the top end and it is clear.

I pulled the drain plug again but I don't see any kind of screen. Could it be missing?

What I did find though was two plastic/nylon gear teeth that look like they would be the right size for the cam drive chain in the little dent in the bottom of the drain plug.

I checked the valves and they were .003" on both of the intake valves. And between .004" and .005"on the left exhaust and .005" on the right. A little bit tight on the left but I would think ok the .004" gauge went in loose and the.005" wouldn't quite go. After putting oil back in and starting it it definitly sounds more like the noise is comming from the cam drive chain.

So the next question question is, how hard is it to change the lower drive sprocket? And why is it plastic?👍

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it is steel on the bottom. sounds like tac drive or oil pump parts to me. you are going to have to pull the right side cover off of the motor and check it out.

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the lower timing chain gear is steel. that sounds like the tac drive or oil pump gear. you are going to have to pull that cover and check.

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The Oil screen I'm talking about is on the bottom of the case. you have to take the skidplate off to get at it. This is not the drain on the side by the shifter.

maim is right, if you are seeing little white gear teeth, you better take a look.

There isn't much plastic in the case, but half of it is very important (oil pump gear).

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The Oil screen I'm talking about is on the bottom of the case. you have to take the skidplate off to get at it. This is not the drain on the side by the shifter.

maim is right, if you are seeing little white gear teeth, you better take a look.

There isn't much plastic in the case, but half of it is very important (oil pump gear).

I took the skid plate off and on the bottom there is just the very large drain plug, but no oil screen that I can find. Maybe it's missing, I don't know.

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Well I took the right side cover off and the plastic gear that drives the oil pump was missing most of it's teeth and the oil pump is seized up.

I am definitly going to need to remove the clutch to get at it. I have ordered a Clymer manual and I am working up a parts list. Where can I get a clutch cage removal tool? Is this a dealer only tool or is there another way to hold the engine from turning.

Not knowing the history of this bike and not knowing how quickly it was shut down after the oil pump siezed what kind of dammage could I be looking at? Is the oil pump just lubricating the top end or is it bottom end as well. What would be most likely dammaged? Any suggestions as to what I should look for?

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if the screen was missing from the large drain on the motor odds are the spring is gone as well. i bet when you take the oil pump apart there are chunks of the teeth jammed in there to seize it. i think the bottom end should be ok as the pump is primarily for lifting oil to the top end. to remove my clutch cage i used a screw driver on the gear with the tip holding on the case inside. i then used an impact to remove the nut. i would suggest removing the clutch ball bearing before you end up having to look for it like i am on mine. as for what was damaged, you need to pull the valve cover and remove one of the cam retainer caps. if it has black scorch marks inside you have trouble, if it looks like natural aluminum (ie no marks) it will be fine. these caps do not take bushings like a connecting rod on a car does, the aluminum is the bushing.

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Look up your bike and take a look at the oil pump section. It shows the screen(strainer) and all the other stuff you will be needing.

http://www.wheelsusa.net/fiche_section_detail.asp

The good news is that everything but the actual pump housing is pretty cheap.

You will want to really flush out the case if you find ANY metal. If it's just plastic, a new strainer will catch it. You just need to check it often until it comes out clean.

Check the cam retainer caps like maim said. Maybe even remove the cams so you can get a really good look at everything. If they are trashed, start looking for a new head on ebay. As far as I know, they can't be fixed.

(I think you can still get a new head assembly from the dealer if you want, but they run about $600. I'm pretty sure they come complete with valves though.)

If the cams, etc. are OK. pull the head the rest of the way off so you can pull and check the valves properly. You originally thought they might be dry and they likely were.

You may need to take the head into a dealer to get the valves out. You need a special spring compressor to do it. I rigged one up, but it was a real pain.

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i would suggest removing the clutch ball bearing before you end up having to look for it like i am on mine.

[Hijack]

Will you just go buy one! they only cost 1.50 USD so that's like .25CAD.

I've been waiting for you to get that thing going forever. I really want to know how a highly modded XT350 compares to a WR250R/X.

Not to mention how all the other mod worked for you.

[/Hijack]

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Thanks for all your help guys!

I got the clutch off and pulled the oil pump and the pump is fine. It was stoped by a small flake of aluminum and after removing it the pump turns smoothly and all the parts look good. Thanks for the link jsmnid, I like their catalog, very easy to use. I ordered a new strainer and spring and also a new plug since mine was pretty buggerd up.

I expect if the strainer hadn't been removed it would have caught the chunck of metal that stoped the pump so hopefuly it wont happen again. I am a little worried about where all the other plastic gear teeth are. I only found two so far but I will flush it out the best I can before closing it back up. Hopefully I can get them out.

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Well I got my parts and have the oil pump in and everything back together. I pulled off the valve cover and removed the left cam cap off the exhaust cam and it looked ok. I managed to get it started(very difficult) and it is still making a valve taping noise. I pulled the valve cover off again and watched carefuly while turning the engine over and I noticed that the right exhaust valve sometimes hesitates before poping back up. I went ahead and pulled both cams and it doesn't look good:( Both of the cam cradles on the right side are scored. Since there are no replaceable shims it looks like I need a new head.

So now a bunch of questions.

What are the chances of finding a good used one?

Are TT heads the same as the XT?

A new head assembly from Cheapcycleparts.com is $570. Would that include cams and cap holders?

If not I found a set of TT350 cams that look like new for $23 including shipping. Are they the same as XT? All four of my cam caps look ok but the cams feel smooth but they look like they got hot and they look ringed.

Sorry about all the questions. I am leaning toward a new head over used. I would hate to spend $200 on a used head and find out it has problems.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks,

Dan

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I checked and the TT cams have the same part # so I went ahead and bought them for $23 I figured I can't go wrong at that price. They look new and come with gears and a head cover.

I took a closer look at my cams and you can definitly feel grooves on the gear sides. And the two right side caps are also ruined, but it looks like they come with the head assembly. I am going to keep looking for a used head for a little while and I guess if it's cheap enough and looks good I will take a gamble.

If you see one that looks good or have one laying around let me know.

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IMO, I'd go for new if $$ is an issue. I got a bad used one on my first try and a decent one on my second. I still had to buy new valves and the there was some wear on the cam caps/carriers so it wasn't perfect. In the long run my cost was about the same but timewise I was out quite a bit.

I don't know exactly what the new assy will have, but it will have the valve guides and caps according to the parts diagram.

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Yep- I bet it's missing. I removed mine yesterday and now i need to replace bothe the plug and the screen. The threads are fine but the screen has a hole in it and the bolt head is all rounded out. Former owner(s) must have been rough...

If anyone knows a better source than bikebandit, I'd love to hear about it. Sounds like you may need to get one too. :banghead:

The plastic in the bottom, just to help confirm, MUST be teeth from the tachometer cable drive or the oil pump idler gear area...

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