how much power does a Rekluse rob?

How much power does a rekluse clutch rob in slippage, --- and do any of you guys use one for moto?

I would like to try one but will abstain if it robs 5 hp's or is setup nightmare . I like a good low to brute strong midrange hit with a smooth top end transition and don't want to lose that

My guinea pig is an '08 450 (same one in my garage) with the only mod being a Dr D exhaust

It's not an automatic transmission and does not rob power. It can actually be set-up to engage to your liking and working on centrifugal engagement rather than "slipping" where the friction plates of the clutch are held apart.

One theory is that if you are getting your bike that down in the rev's in moto cross that you're not winning anyway. I think in a situation where you dump the bike and need a quick remount, it could perhaps lessen the probability of stalling the bike because it would engage the clutch before stalling... fuel starvation from the bike being on it's side, however, can't be corrected for. :)

The bike will be unchanged, it's just when you need to pull in the clutch. There are 2 models out now for your bike: one requires more set-up but is cheaper, the other is easier to set up and is more expensive. I don't know the technical differences between the 2. It's main application is technical woods riding, but not having to grab the clutch coming into corners on the moto track (it acts like a slipper clutch) is cool, but you can still clutch it coming out of the corner and never know it is there... up to you!

Should be a great improvement if that stuff if what you are looking for.

There is very little slippage if set up properly. There is a little slippage on take off, just as if you would use your clutch.

I does not 'rob' any power.

I use one on my 08 YZ-450 for moto and love it. Definately get the Pro model if you are going to moto just in case you need to clear a jump.

I have a Z-Start...the older design/cheaper Reckluse in my 04 WR450. The only time that I experience slippage is when I'm in the wrong gear. And I feel that it makes the bike hook up in wet/muddy conditions. You can actually ride a gear high and reduce wheel spin. I only ride woods type stuff...feel that it cut down on arm pump because I can just hang onto the bars and can leave the clutch lever alone. For what it's worth, when I change bikes, a Reckluse will be add-on #1.

it will actually put more power to the ground, after about 3500 rpm it locks up tighter than a crabs arse(and thats water tight)

definately go with the pro,not only is it easier but its built alot heavier duty;and it allows for a true override where as the older style was kinda screwy to override (especially once the r's got up)

I find the advantage in moto is exiting corners. It puts the power to the ground more effectively so that you hit the apex, roll the throttle on, and motor away without any tire slippage or stepping out. Very smooth and my kid says I gain time out of every corner. You need to make sure your carb is dialed, as I have had a problem free-wheeling into bumpy corners where fuel slosh in the float bowl causes the motor to stall (when the motor is really hot). Other than that, in quick tip-overs, the motor doesn't stall, so that's a benefit. The added weight has some flywheel effect that smoothes power transition and improves traction. I find I can go longer on a rear tire because it hooks up noticeably better.

...You need to make sure your carb is dialed, as I have had a problem free-wheeling into bumpy corners where fuel slosh in the float bowl causes the motor to stall (when the motor is really hot).
This is most often caused by a carb with the pilot circuit too rich. Just as an excessively lean pilot causes the idle to "hang" and not return to idle, an excessively rich idle causes the idle down phase to occur too rapidly, dropping well below normal before returning.

You see this a lot where someone has cranked up the pilot jet size to try to get instantaneous throttle response, or to suppress every last trace of decel popping.

I just had a Rekluse Pro installed on my '07. This weekend was the first time I got to try it out. I encountered a similar problem - I ride woods and found that sometimes if I was coming into a turn in 2nd and applied heavy braking over rocks/roots/whoops, the bike would flame out. On similar situations where I was only in 1st, the bike did not have this problem.

This weekend was only the second time I've ridden the bike and the temps were over 80, which is quite warm. I'm no jetting expert and have not had to fiddle with it much on the bikes I've owned. But my hunch is that I'm rich in the low carb circuits. Am I going in the right direction?

Disclaimers: my clutch basket is starting to show some grooves. I plan to replace it with a Hinson shortly. My fiber plates are on their way out, will be replaced this week.

Other: despite a few stalls, I eventually learned to avoid them and really enjoyed my new 450. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to re-start after a stall (1 kick usually). Also, I think the bike is easier to ride than any bike I've owned, which includes a 250 four-stroke and 250 two-stroke. Yesterday after close to 50mi of single track, I had never felt that fresh or that ready to go do more!

The idle speed is critical in getting the clutch to work the way you wan't. Run it high enough that when you put it in gear it almost wan'ts to creep and that will help with the freewheeling and it may be to high if it is stalling.

I first put one on my 06 450f and now have the same one, the origninal style, on my 08. The same clutch. On my 06 I had jetting issues. I was to rich and it stalled. Took it off and on more times then I could count. On my 08 decided to give it one more try. The jetting was pretty much spot on from the factory and I also did not run the clutch overide barrel adjuster set up. It is great and I don't think I could work the clutch manually as well. Plus no arm pump in the woods is a huge plus. I also feel that the engagement is better without the barrel adjuster. Also it forces me to use it like it is meant to be used. That is no clutch to pull in. You start learning how to use throttle control vs reverting to old habits of going for the clutch.

I have run it in everything from gncc's to Baja. In Baja, and moto stuff I feel like it is a big advantage because it will free wheel coming into a wooped out corner rather then having engine braking make the rear end hop around. So, I'm back on the gas sooner plus I am not as tired. In the woods it is a mixed bag. If it is real tite I am very carefull with the throttle. If it is hot and you blip the throttle it will stall. You just need to learn to not blip the throttle. As far as starts, robbing power, no issue.

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