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DIY lower footpegs for the DRZ

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I wanted to solve some problems with my DRZ....

I have long legs and felt cramped when sitting and the bars were too low when standing on the pegs.

Tried bar risers to solve problem #2 but that did nothing for problem #1. James at Renazco racing suggested a thicker, higher seat but I felt the seat height was already just about maximum for controlled trail riding (at least at MY skill level).

After a lot of thought and hours in the garage staring at the bike (much to the amusement of the missus), I think I have the solution.

Lowering the pegs lets my legs relax when sitting, takes less energy to go from sitting to standing and effectively raises the height of the bars when standing by about the same amount as you lower the pegs.

Here's my attempt:

Photo0030.jpg

Photo0031.jpg

The shifter pivot was located well enough that rotating the lever down 2 splines worked well.

The brake lever had to be cut, sectioned, bent and welded. The brake lever had to be rotated to the maximum allowed at the master cylinder (in fact about 4 threads worth of actuating rod had to be ground off to prevent the rod from hitting the brake pedal) and the brake light switch had to be readjusted.

The pegs are located about 1/2 in, higher than the bottom of the Tonn's plate. I realize that I may scrape the pegs in deep ruts but it's not a MX bike and I try to avoid huge ruts in any case.

So far it seems to be working well. I'm much more comfortable on the bike and shifting weight while on the pegs seems to have a bit more effect on controlling the bike in sand.

(Yep the Deathwings are on the bike since I've been commuting with it the past few weeks.....two sets of wheels are nice to have)

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Just curious...how tall are you? I have a 32" inseam and the DRZ seems really cramped from seat to foot peg. On the other hand, the seat to floor height feels tall. Nice picts btw, but could you add a few details on how you made the foot pegs?

Thanks!!!

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What he said ^^ I cant get my alpinestars boots under the shifter, and already have the MSR+1 shifter, and cant raise it anymore(hits the chain guard thing)

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I guess I shoulda taken photos along the way.

First cut the stock pegs at the welds to remove the "U" shaped part from the peg pivot.

Clean up left-over peg from the pivot section.

Measure and cut 2 pieces of 1/8 in steel plate to form the extension pieces.

Tack weld the plate to the pivot piece

Tack weld the left over peg piece to your extensions.

Install on the bike to take a look and gently tap/bend the pieces around until they end up flat, level and in the correct position.

Final weld the pieces together.

Add larger "U" shaped piece formed from 1/8 in steel strip and attach to the remaining piece of stock peg.

You loose about 1 inch of peg length when you cut the stock piece off of the pivot so I added in the loop to regain the length and add width since I was already there.

The shifter can be rotated down 2 splines or so (YMMV). The brake lever has to be modified. I cut out 2 pie-slice wedges in the areas where you see the welds. Simply moving the pedal around on the pivot results in a downward angle to the actual pedal section. The cut and reweld was necessary to get the pedal back to level under my boot.

The extension plate on the brake side had to be thinner than that on the shifter side or the brake pedal will contact the plate.

The springs were simply bent downward on their outer end to come back into contact with the extension pieces....not particularly pretty....but it works.

I quit using my Alpinstars for the very reason you describe. I could never get the damn things to flex enough at the ankle to allow me to shift of brake comfortably. What's the point of a good boot if you can't control the machine with it......Try Sidis....expensive but you can move your ankle.

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Thanks for the great write up. Now I have one more excuse to buy a welder. :D

I just want a better one :)

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