Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

WR250R Foot Peg Change......

Recommended Posts

Decided I had enough of these cheap stock foot

pegs that Yamaha put on our bikes. I had already

bent the right peg just from making some jumps

and, I guess, the force of my body weight landing.

I had not even been in a trail/track accident, so I

know the bending was not caused by that. Then

this last Saturday I did wreck the bike following

about a 20 foot drop on the trail that has a

sharp bend at the bottom. I was going too fast

and the bike washed out on me at the bottom.

No big deal, but I noticed my foot peg was bent

a bit more.

So I decided to get some pegs with a bit more

strength. I have not purchased the WRF model

springs yet, since the Yami shop is closed today.

But here are a couple pics.

Has anyone else changed pegs? If so, what did

you go to, and what has been your results?

Please post some pics if you have them.

Later.

The pegs are from Moose.

DSC00581.jpg

DSC00582.jpg

DSC00584.jpg

DSC00585.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just bought a pair of IMS pegs ... should have them installed this week. Will post pics and a report in the future.

ims.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I just bought a pair of IMS pegs ... should have them installed this week. Will post pics and a report in the future.

Great. Part of the reason I posted, and asked question, was because

I had to purchase the pegs that are for a WRF/YZ. Since the pegs

are wider, front to back, they hit the brake lever when folded

in. So if, when, I go down there is a chance the pressure will be

put on the brake arm at the pivot point. In fact, in the pictures

you can see a bit of a shiney mark on the brake arm.

So Im just curious if all the other pegs for the WRF models are the

same. Not such a big deal that I am worried about it, just curious.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Great. Part of the reason I posted, and asked question, was because

I had to purchase the pegs that are for a WRF/YZ. Since the pegs

are wider, front to back, they hit the brake lever when folded

in. So if, when, I go down there is a chance the pressure will be

put on the brake arm at the pivot point. In fact, in the pictures

you can see a bit of a shiney mark on the brake arm.

Hmmm, i do see that shiny mark. I would fear that a hard knock between the two might crack the aluminum brake arm at that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was at the Yamaha dealer yesterday, and liked the looks of R1 footpegs. More road than dirt. Rounded, all metal. Looked very nice. But it looked like the angle of the footpeg bracket was different, and the bracket is smaller. I'll have to check into it further, but if anyone knows about a more street-oriented peg setup, I'd like to hear about it too.

Maybe there can be a peg swap along with a wheel swap going dirt to street.👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Zadok, I measured the IMS pegs with a ruler. The surface where your foot rests is 3-1/8" by 1-7/8"

ims2.jpg

ims3.jpg

==> The brake side peg hits when folded up same as your Moose pegs <=======================

ims4.jpg

==> a few more shots of the IMS pegs installed

ims5.jpg

ims6.jpg

ims7.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You guys are gonna have to file/grind that inside rear tooth way down. That'll be like hitting that aluminum on the edge with a hammer and cold chisel.👍

Unless you are willing to risk riding with no rear brake!:worthy:

/dh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It may be that rotating the peg mounting brackets 180 degrees will give you clearance, if the peg springs will work with them turned around. It would mean the peg sits about 3/8" forward and down from where it is now.

I have an ulterior motive in suggesting this. If you try it, you can tell me how you got those stinking bolts out:D

cheers!/dh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You guys are gonna have to file/grind that inside rear tooth way down. That'll be like hitting that aluminum on the edge with a hammer and cold chisel.👍

Unless you are willing to risk riding with no rear brake!:worthy:

/dh

Tomorrow I will be looking at the possibility of grinding that corner a bit flat where it touches the brake lever.

It's time for a shower and cocktails now :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tomorrow I will be looking at the possibility of grinding that corner a bit flat where it touches the brake lever.

It's time for a shower and cocktails now :-)

I like the look of those IMS pegs. Definitely would like something a little larger. Please post after grinding down that tooth for the clearance issue.

And oh yeah, I'm way ahead of you on the cocktails. 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It may be that rotating the peg mounting brackets 180 degrees will give you clearance, if the peg springs will work with them turned around. It would mean the peg sits about 3/8" forward and down from where it is now.

I have an ulterior motive in suggesting this. If you try it, you can tell me how you got those stinking bolts out:D

cheers!/dh

Ive already had the bolts out. No problems. But you can NOT turn

the mounting brackets over. The additional "drop" or length at the

bottom accomodates the "stop" at the bottom of the peg. If you

turn them over to lower the peg, then the peg sits on the bracket

mounting bolt and will not lay down correctly.

Not really sure why you are having such an issue getting the bolts

out of the brackets though. I just used a standard 3/8 drive ratchet,

long extension for my hand to hold, and a torx socket. Came right

off.

Not sure if Im going to worry about the peg hitting the brake

lever or not. First off, the brake lever is pretty wide, meaning

deep, there. Second, I dont really go down that ofter on the

bike, so it really wont be in contact with the lever very often.

Third, the springs are pretty tight, so you would have to drop

the bike in order for the peg to be forced up into the lever.

As for the rear brake.......Eh, who needs the rear brake anyway.👍

Later.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ive already had the bolts out. No problems. But you can NOT turn

the mounting brackets over. The additional "drop" or length at the

bottom accomodates the "stop" at the bottom of the peg. If you

turn them over to lower the peg, then the peg sits on the bracket

mounting bolt and will not lay down correctly.

Bless you, bless you, bless you! What a relief. Now I can, in good conscience, skip any further attempts to take them off to turn them around. That would have bugged me forever.

Thank goodness and Zadok.👍

Later.

Cheers!/dh

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol......glad I could be of help for once around here.....:blah:

I know how that is too. I hate when my OCD gets the better

of me. That would probably have driven me nuts too if I had

been in your shoes. Only difference in the two of us is, my

OCD would still have me out in the garage doing dangerous

stuff to the bike trying to get those bolts out. :worthy::busted:

👍 Glad I could help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lol......glad I could be of help for once around here.....:blah:

I know how that is too. I hate when my OCD gets the better

of me. That would probably have driven me nuts too if I had

been in your shoes. Only difference in the two of us is, my

OCD would still have me out in the garage doing dangerous

stuff to the bike trying to get those bolts out. :worthy::busted:

👍 Glad I could help.

Oh, I'm still at work:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dammit! I welded those U shaped extensions on my pegs and just put them back on yesterday, now I have to go check to make sure it doesn't hit the brake lever! I cursed the Yamaha engineers getting them off and putting them on for not making that right pin easier to get out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...