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best method of lubing cables?

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Trying to loosen up the throttle and clutch cables on my wifes KLR. I bought a motion pro cable luber and a can of motion pro cable lube. It smells kinda like bananas, which is nice because it's totally freakin worthless. The lube just sprays out around the sides of the luber and makes a huge mess instead of going down into the cable.

The throttle cables I was doing preventatively, the clutch cable is REALLY stiff. Any suggestions are welcome.

I feel like an ******* for even buying that junk, I just looked at ron ayers and the whole clutch cable is only $15 and change. I think I spent that on the lube and the luber. I didn't even look at the price of the cable beforehand because I just assumed it was expensive like everything else for this freakin bike.

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Did you have it on the right way. Not thinking your dumb. Just asking. You can always just use a rag to cover the end and spray it town the cable because you already bought it. Otherwise, it is only $15.

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There's a rubber insert with a hole through it that has a small end and a big end. The small end appears to go around the cable, and the big end appears to go around the "sheath" or whatever it's called. I tried it at several different lengths of sheath insertion, but I could only get it to seal around one side, never both. If I put the sheat in too far, it wouldn't seal around the cable and would shoot lube out the end. If I didn't put it in far enough, it would seal around the cable but shoot out on the other side. I could never find a happy medium that sealed both sides enough to force any lube through it.

I tried the rag method. It just makes the rag wet and smell of bananas.

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Well, as much as I like rags that smell like bananas...................

Your better off getting a new cable. Your wife's hands will feel much better.

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I've been using one of those for years. Make sure you don't have the cable pulled all the way out and blocking the other end? I love mine.

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Your better off getting a new cable. Your wife's hands will feel much better.

I'm thinking the same thing. The last thing I need is her complaining about a tight cable after I've burned $1k on this thing to bring it from "doesn't run" to "ride-worthy" in 3 weeks.

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I've been using one of those for years. Make sure you don't have the cable pulled all the way out and blocking the other end? I love mine.

+1, Good point.

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I'm thinking the same thing. The last thing I need is her complaining about a tight cable after I've burned $1k on this thing to bring it from "doesn't run" to "ride-worthy" in 3 weeks.

Well that's an accomplishment. If she knows how much you put in, she'll be pretty upset at the tough lever.

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I have used those style of cable lube things for many years yes they make a mess, but they also work to get lube to the other end quickly every time. Do not worry about the mess, and don't try short quick squirts,, Attach the lube thingie, spray with a long squirt, and the cable lube will flow out the other end. (and make a mess at both ends to clean up)

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I use one of those thingymabobbers too with good results. If I can't find it, I'll unhook the cable and orient it so thew open end is pointing "up" and I'll just drop a few drops of lube down at a time while I'm doing something else. I do this until I see it coming out the other end. Both ways work fine for me. Thinymabobber is messier but faster.

I do remember reading somewhere (not DRZ specific) that the different housing liners require different types of lubes. Teflon, silicon, 10w30 etc. If the wrong kind is used on the specific liner swelling can occur resulting in premature wear and stickyness I'd presume ... FWIW ...

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Go old school. find a funnel where the narrow tip can be cut so that the cable end will barely fit into it. Tape the small end of the funnel to the outer cable housing. Hang funnel from ceiling and fill with appropriate lube. Go to bed. Clean up mess in the morning. Cable will be lubed.

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well if making an unholy mess is normal, I'll give this thing another try. I'm going to be doing the loctite fix on the CS sprocket on the DRZ but if I have time to get to the KLR I'll try it.

So far I've replaced both sprockets, chain, front tire, coolant reservoir, handlebars, seat, battery, stripped/cleaned/sealed the tank, cleaned the carburetor, painted the plastic, and replaced some washers that were missing from the kick start shaft, preventing it from completely engaging the ratchet. I'm waiting on parts to replace the water pump seal and put the clutch cover back on, probably check the valve clearances and *hopefully* at that point it will run.

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Yep, sometimes they make a mess. Most times you can loosen it. move it around and retighten it to get a better seal. I've been using the same one for nearly 20 years. Never had to replace a cable on a bike, lube 'em once a year.

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