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530 exc fork preload adj problem

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hi there,

i was lookin through my owners manual of my 530 exc, suspension setup section.

it told me to wind the fork preload adjuster all the way counterclockwise untill it stops, then add 2 turns in.

problem is it didnt stop, so here i am winding it out with a spanner for 10 minutes,

are these preload adjusters meant to click, (because they dont).

just wondering if anyone knows why it wont stop.

thanks.

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Very strange.

No, they don't click. I made a pencil mark on mine so I could track the turns. When I checked it out after getting it home from the dealer, one was at 2 turns in, the other was at 6 turns in. It did take quite awhile to get the 6 turns out. Maybe your factory settings were way off. Was it riding really stiff before you started the adjustments?

Dave

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You probably have too much sag. I've found one turn of the preload ring makes big changes in the way the bike handles.

Try one turn more preload.

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it wasnts too stiff, but the front end was washin out, just tryin 2 stop that.

They have 10mm of adjustment. 10 turns + or - 1/2 turn from one extreme to the other. How much air do you have in the front tire?

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BTW, when i wind my rebound damper in(clockwise) does this speed up rebound, or slow it down.

and when i wind my compression clockwise, does that harden the fork?

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BTW, when i wind my rebound damper in(clockwise) does this speed up rebound, or slow it down.

and when i wind my compression clockwise, does that harden the fork?

16lbs is pretty stiff...I use 13 or 14lbs MAX when riding high speed rocks...

Both clickers make more damping when you turn the screw CW (IN). More damping meaning stiffer/slower/harder. The clickers allow the oil to bypass the valve stack. Just like opening a facet allows water to flow...

CCW (OUT) allows the wheels it to move faster/softer/quicker.

So...this is why I don't like it when people say to "slow the rebound down two clicks"...What?:worthy:👍

Which way does that mean? "Reduce" the suspensions ability to move (go IN/CW) or "reduce" the AMOUNT of damping by turning the clicker (OUT/CCW)?

I prefer to say go IN/CW (stiffen) on the clicker or go OUT/CCW (soften) the clicker as it's impossible to confuse which way to go with that description.

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so if my front end washes out around corners, what should i do, increase rebound?

and also i have one fork leg with no oil, due to blown seal, could this by y i cant take corners properly?

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so if my front end washes out around corners, what should i do, increase rebound?

and also i have one fork leg with no oil, due to blown seal, could this by y i cant take corners properly?

I almost answered your question then I was like WHAT?:worthy:

Probably has more oil than none- but that will throw everything off- and more importantly it will ruin your internal bushings- Get some new seals and do a complete oil change...👍

Then go back to dampening- start again with stock settings- and work from there. Though I was going to tell you to check your rear sag and maybe decrease rebound in the forks... but now that's irrelavant.

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ok, got my fork seals done,

they seam to(and always have) rebound really quickly,

i have a suzuki rmx250 and you can visually see that they rebound at about half the speed of my WP's.

though the rmx forks are conventional not upside down.

i wind my rebound damper right out, the right in, and by holding the front brake on and pushing down, i cant see any difference in rebound.

should i be able to see the difference?

also winding rebound clockwise, is it meant to slow down rebound?👍

also been lookin at race tech's pistons and gold valving, would it be worth it?

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16lbs is pretty stiff...I use 13 or 14lbs MAX when riding high speed rocks...

Both clickers make more damping when you turn the screw CW (IN). More damping meaning stiffer/slower/harder. The clickers allow the oil to bypass the valve stack. Just like opening a facet allows water to flow...

CCW (OUT) allows the wheels it to move faster/softer/quicker.

So...this is why I don't like it when people say to "slow the rebound down two clicks"...What?:worthy:👍

Which way does that mean? "Reduce" the suspensions ability to move (go IN/CW) or "reduce" the AMOUNT of damping by turning the clicker (OUT/CCW)?

I prefer to say go IN/CW (stiffen) on the clicker or go OUT/CCW (soften) the clicker as it's impossible to confuse which way to go with that description.

Did you read this post?

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should i be able to notice the difference in rebound just by eye?

I honestly don't know on the forks, as I've never tried it? It definitely will work on the shock...Back the rebound all the way out and run it back IN until it stops...how many clicks does it have total?

Not sure what you were turning that wouldn't stop turning? The rebound knob or the preload adjuster?

Turning the rebound IN (CW) slows it down. I hope you lowered the tire pressure? 14lbs is plenty...

If the rebound goes in and stops at about 30-35 clicks then back it out to 15 and ride the bike. Try going OUT (CCW) to18, then go back IN (CW) to 10-12 and see what works the best.

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im not sure how many clicks the rebound has, as for the preload adjuster, i got it fixed when i got my seals done.

tyre pressure is now at 14psi heaps better, but i might make it 13psi.

how much air psi for rear tyre?

and what exactly does the preload adjuster do when i wind it in(CW)?

and would it be worth getting racetech gold valve and piston?

cheers.

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im not sure how many clicks the rebound has, as for the preload adjuster, i got it fixed when i got my seals done.

tyre pressure is now at 14psi heaps better, but i might make it 13psi.

how much air psi for rear tyre?

and what exactly does the preload adjuster do when i wind it in(CW)?

and would it be worth getting racetech gold valve and piston?

cheers.

I was asking you to count the clicks available from the rebound knob as a diagnostic tool? Need to know how much it moves as if the caps are not installed correctly the rebound adjuster won't do anything...if you find you can turn the rebound knob IN 35 clicks or more, or that they just keep truning and won't stop, then the caps are not threaded on the cartridge rod far enough...

10-12 psi rear/12-14 front IMO for off-road.

The preload adjuster? Adds preload of course?👍 Guess you would need to see the adjuster apart to understand how it works...

A spring is rated at a set length. Say the springs free length is 510mm long and the maker calls it a .44 spring. They figure that number with the spring "pre" loaded X amount of MM...so it has to be compressed to say 505mm for the "first" 25mm of movement to actually provide the support of .44kg/mm...not sure how to better explain this?

Again...preload sets the static ride height of the bike. Period. If you ride a lot of whoops you can tighten the preload to make the bike higher in the front-end as you don't need as much sag. If you are riding a low speed tight area, where steering is at a preimium, you would loosen/reduce the preload to lower the front end to make it steer better. Preload only effects the first 1"/25mm of the springs travel. It doesn't change the springs rate.

Forget the Gold Valves...

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thanks

ill check how many clicks the rebound does, and let you know later on today.

thanks again.

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