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Pressure switch keep on failing

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i bought my bike and it had a pressure switch instaleld on the rear line. it worked for a while then crapped out. since i have bought a new one from cyclegear..... put it in and 10 rides later it's crapped out again. any idea why this keeps happening to me? is there anything else i could use.... esp something that i could pic up from a parts store or cyclegear... i need this working again asap. thanks for any info.

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i stopped at cycle gear and got another one..... came home and wired it up (soldered), bled the brake and still nothing. i know the tail light is getting power cause i have it wired so the stock running light is still a running light then the add on light that bolts to the fender is a brake light only. it was weird when it went out it wouldn't work while lightly pressing on the brake, if i mashed it hard the brake light would come on. i guess it's back to the ol drawing board.

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I went through two of these things on my KX250. Both failed within a week. I since wired up a conventional spring-pull type switch instead. It was a very tight fit but works well.

One other problem with the aftermarket hydraulic switches is the amount of brake force needed to activate the switch. My taillight would not come on unless I was on the brakes hard. Maybe some people have good luck with them, I had nothing but problems.

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yep i'm guessing bad batch. i just tested the new one and it's bad as well. the only thing i can think is taking them out is air in the line and it gets to the switch and maybe blows out a seal or something? i just did a timing chain on my bike and i had it layed on its side so maybe air got into the line the first time? it was working great... very easy to activate the light. then a couple times had to press really hard then nothing. now with the new one i pushed the brake pedal a few times without bleeding it after changing the switch, it never worked once. i can stick something into the switch and press really hard and get a 0.00 reading, but i have to press really hard. the pressure from the fluid must not be as much i guess.

edit: BTW these are K&S switches.

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We have had the worst time with the K & S Switch in our kits. I have told the owner many times that the quality is junk. He just will not listen. His name is Frank, call him at 858-452-2005 and tell him yourself. He should replace all your defective switches.

Dale

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We have had the worst time with the K & S Switch in our kits. I j=hve told the owner many times the the quality is junk. He just will not listen. His name is Frank, call him at 858-452-2005 and tell his your self. He should replace all your defective switches.

Dale

Intresting, the K&S switches I got from you several years ago do still work but I have to squeze the front brake fairly hard to activate the front, but the rear one works just fine with a light touch, just hit or miss I guess. Also theres a stock pressure switch on the rear brake of my 2000 Duke II that still works fine after all these years, I dont know who actually manufactures that switch but the brakes are Brembo's.

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i contacted K&S this is what was said:

Alex,

If you think the product is defective, please return them to the place of

purchase for refund or replacement according to their policy.

Any defective item should be returned to us through our distributor from

whom the dealer buys. At that time we will inspectt the item for defect.

If you need a new switch, contact www.parts-unlimited.com (our

distributor) and locate a dealer nearest you.

Thank you for your inquiry.

K&S

> Name: Alex

> Email: fmystreetracer@gmail.com

> Zip Code: 33967

> State: Fl

> Country: USA

> Company: Pro-Performance

> Usertype: EndUser

> Message: i have been having some problems with your switches...... i

> bought a bike (used) that was a straight dirt bike that has been dual

> sported. it had one of your switches installed on the rear brake master

> cylinder to act as a brake light switch. it failed about a month ago after

> using it for a few months. i went to Cycle gear and bought a new K&S

> switch just like it had the first time but this time it lasted a month

> (about 10 rides) and it died again. i went to cyclegear again today and

> got another one, this one didn\'t even work once. the first two times it

> failed it was working fine then i noticed i had to press the brake hard to

> get the light to come on (so hard i was locking up the rear tire) then

> after about 3 times of that it just died completely. i can take match

> stick to them and put it in the hole of the switch and push really hard

> and i get a 0.00 reading but i have to press really really hard, to the

> point the match stick breaks. i\'m a current 7 year electrical master

> certified Chrysler tech so i know it\'s mechanical not a electrical

> failure.

>

>

> i don\'t know if you had a bad batch or what but i need a brake light that

> works asap. i\'m heading out to a bike night event tomorrow night (with no

> brake light i guess) and then to the Everglades with some friends this

> weekend and hope to have a brake light by then.

>

> please call me at and leave a message with a call back number

> if i don\'t answer, my name is Alex. i\'m probly going to order one of

> your mechanical switches tonight so i know i have one coming asap or if

> you could replace my hydro one with a that it would be great as well.

> thanks.

>

As you can see they weren't much help. i went to the local cycle shop and ordered K&S mechanical one. when i got back to work some one told me that there was another shop two buildings down. at lunch i went over there..... jackpot! this place was more like a junk yard than anything else. i snagged a swtch off a Honda cruiser and rigged this up.

dscn1230in8.jpg

it works like a champ now 👍

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you know.... You could of installed the oem switch from the DRS S.SM (or the equivelent Kawa model) and gone factory. Parts would be the switch, plunger bolt and lock nut. If you look under your bike, you will see a threaded tab on the brake pedal for the adjustment bolt and locknut. Directly above that is a "C" shaped bracket for the switch. Who knows, you may be able to fit the switch you just got into the bracket, shorten the spring slightly and have it be factory looking and located in a safe position.

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HMMM sounds like a common problem. I have been through 2 hydralic switches in the last 2 rides. First one the actual break fluid started leaking from the top where the wires enter. This one almost had me go right off a cliff when it failed as the brakes held no presure. The second just did not let the electrical current flow through it. The second one was a Baja Designs just a electrical failure. The new and current switch is also a Baja Designs so lets see how many rides I get out of it.

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the leaking portion is the exact reason why i won't run one on the front. honestly the Mechanical switch is awesome so far. i found that you can get the bracket that hold the switch from a 2008 LTZ450. it's not welded on it's bolted on. then just drill a small hole in the brake lever or use the return spring hole and you should be set.

for now since i'm broke mine will stay zip tied to the sub frame.

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Ive been on multi-day dual sport rides and seen the aftermarket hydralic rear switches fail [leak]. :worthy: No big deal except the riders had no back brakes for the rest of the ride! :busted:

Try a small mechanical switch and take the time to fab-up a nice bracket.

www.K+Lsupply.com has a nice small "flat" switch. Part# 21-1222

Lot smaller and easier to locate/mount than the oem "round" styles.👍

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i just looked at klsupply.com and all they seem to show is shop equipment.

the switch setup that i have been using is great. i have rode the bike with the switch way under water for a few hundred feet and all is well. i have also been riding the bike daily now to work and back and this setup has worked flawlessly. i see no reason to go fab up a nice mount to just have it knocked off when i drop the bike or to mess with something that works fine. i now also have the spare K&S switch that i ordered to use as a backup if i ever need to.

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where in Fl are you? i'm in Ft. Myers and out by the Glades it's very deep. still a good time though. even got my buddy in his SM out there in some of the hard bottom stuff. we had to turn around at one point cause the water claimed a klx250s.

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I have the samp problem on my crf450sm, if it only works with a lot of pressure you have air in the switch. I have solved that problem but they seem to crap out after a few weeks. I tryed K&S and Baja Designs and Electro sport, I think they are all of the same. I have seen some electric switches on e-bay, I think I will try that next.

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