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Can clicker settings indicate if a valving change is needed?:worthy: For example, if I'm out 18 clicks on rear low speed with 3 turns out on the high speed adjuster, does this indicate I could adjust the shock valving to arrive at a better performing setup?👍

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well, yes and no. Remember that the adjusters on your fork and shock only affect the lo-speed damping (yes, even the one referred to as the "hi-speed" adjuster).

But, that being said, how does the suspension feel at those settings? Do you like it? Does the bike do anything strange when you start to ride it agressively? The internal valving can be changed to get you more into the middle of the adjustment range, but if you like how the bike works where it's at.....well, there's an old saying: If it feels good, DO IT! Right?

I hope that addresses your question. But, bottom line is that any OEM suspension can be made to work better than it does in stock form. The beauty is it can be made to work just about any way you want it to.

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Bike is working well with no complaints. Ridden by a pretty fast A rider. Don't want to miss anything that could possibly be better than what I have now. I'm wondering if reducing the bleed (clickers) and making the valving do more work would give me, in some way, an improvement in feel. Or even a different reaction! Always looking to improve. Hoping someone could give me some educated guesses at what to expect if I did mod the valve stack to reduce the bleed. Any thoughts ???

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Changing the valve stack won't, in itself, reduce the bleed. However, your theory about reducing the clicker settings is correct. The more compression you can put into suspension, the better the traction and feel are going to be. You're forcing the wheels to the ground, if you will, and the chassis is more stable - not wallowing front to back. But, the track conditions (hard pack vs. loam) and other factors (rocks/roots) dictate how much compression damping the rider can accept. That's the balancing act we all try to conquer.

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Technicality ? Isn't it safe to say that I'm 18 clicks out because to get to this point the low speed valve stack is a bit on the stiff side? Therefore I have to introduce this amount of bleed (bypassing the stack) to get the compression resistance that I feel good with ???????

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Technicality ? Isn't it safe to say that I'm 18 clicks out because to get to this point the low speed valve stack is a bit on the stiff side? Therefore I have to introduce this amount of bleed (bypassing the stack) to get the compression resistance that I feel good with ???????

You aren't fighting to stiff a spring rate are ya? Are your free & rider sag numbers good?

doc

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I'm not really "fighting" anything. I've tried stiff springs and I've tried soft springs and everything in between. Spring wise I think I'm good. Ended up at what most say are correct for my weight and right where conventional wisdom says I should be on sag numbers. I'm looking for the next step. Where many people would say " this is GREAT", I say "how much better could it be"??????????? I don't even know exactly what I'm looking for. I'm just looking for it! It's like going after the next girl in the bar. Maybe she's better than the last one !!!!!!!!!!!!

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Well, let's back up just a minute and get some of your specifics. Geared weight, bike type, riding type, sag numbers..... If I have that, I can address the question a little more directly.

The problem with being 18 clicks out on compression is that you're going to give up a lot of control with the bleed that wide open. I think what you're saying - and you would be correct - is that your shim stack can (should?) be altered so that you don't have to give up that much bleed.....and control. Again, it's all about finding balance within the complete system.

Do you find yourself bouncing on jump landings?

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