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ssr140tx not running right - still new out of box

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so, the bike wont stay running on its own...

we got the 17.5 jet and the 100 main, and that helped some, but when we pull the plug, its black. what should we be doing.

here is what we are noticing

backfires, black plug, air screw 1 turn out, cant dial in idle screw right, needle clip in the middle, bike wont run without manualy giving it gas

thanks guys

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so, the bike wont stay running on its own...

we got the 17.5 jet and the 100 main, and that helped some, but when we pull the plug, its black. what should we be doing.

here is what we are noticing

backfires, black plug, air screw 1 turn out, cant dial in idle screw right, needle clip in the middle, bike wont run without manualy giving it gas

thanks guys

try putting the stock jets (both) back in see what happens

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the stockers where 100 and 20

it will sometimes stay idling now with the new jet (17.5) where before it wouldnt at all, but has to be half choke

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the stockers where 100 and 20

it will sometimes stay idling now with the new jet (17.5) where before it wouldnt at all, but has to be half choke

take the carb off and take it apart check the float level and make sure nothing is clogging any of the systems (could have anything ) in them from sitting in the bin..

Check your ignition ground also

lets start elimination

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when you get it back together...follow this

1) GET A PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can. and then kill the engine with the throttle wide open. Dont idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the white porcelain part. as a rule it should look like coffee and cream( TAN ) If its Dark brown or sooty black your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.

Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.

2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle After you have made your test run with the stock jetting. Install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher number than you removed. do your test run again, pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet keep doing this until you feel a noticable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to your pilot jet.

3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how its feels when you pull out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponcive untill you are past 1/4 throttle A perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repete this test until you get one that feels the best.

4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting (about 1800 rpms) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle. Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPMs reaches its peak. Peak rpms is when the engine runs its cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....

5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you dont have to replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the bikes jetting. Dont be afraid to move the clip up..LEANER or down..RICHER. You spend most of your time riding in this range.

Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top or bottom. then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...

When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches.

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so i got the jets as 20 pilot and 102.5 main....seems to idle now and not die.

however, still a bit of backfire (what does that usually represent btw)

and when I blip the throttle...it stays reved up for a few seconds before coming back down....surely that points directly to something...i just dont know what.

one issue, is that I cannot get to the air screw (bottom screw) to make adjustments without taking the carb off...so I cannot do any "realtime" adjustments. Its remove carb, turn half turn, install carb...didnt work...repeat process.

I tried to order the air screw from staggs, but they are backorder or something.

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yep, either an air leak or it's very lean. Backfiring and an idle that stays high before idling down are lean conditions. Check your fuel flow, check that your vent tube on the tank cap is working, check the float level, make sure your fuel or air screw is properly adjusted (depending on carb, you may need to turn it in or out). If all those check out then start going richer on the pilot.

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so I have lost all patience on this thing, and must get it working this weekend!

Here is the current status:

102.5 main jet

20 pilot jet

1.5 turns out (air screw)

needle clip - second clip up from the bottom

symptoms:

bike starts and we can get it to idle with the idle screw, but when you get it to the point where it will idle, the revs stay high after you blip the throttle...sometimes it doesnt even come back down.

slight backfire, very slight

and I have the same setup on my buddys bike (identical - ordered at the same time) and his is fine.

I feel that its too lean...but what else should be done? especially with the other ssr140 being perfect with the same setup

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Is the (slide) in the carburetor bottoming out or is it hanging open?

It must be at the very bottom with a bit of play.

Take a Clear picture of the carburetor for me so we are dead on the same page.

are the floats adjusted correctly? have you checked for a Air leak (intake side) and at the exhaust (pipe, gasket head)

wonder if your Rev box is Ok they have been known to be defective and have Carb type issues (hard start, wont rev or Idle ect ect)

this happens with all china bikes ( Pitster, Ogm, SSR, G-2moto) ect ect as they all run the same parts...

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slide is hitting bottom when i release the throttle with a bit of play, and then when I adjust the idle screw it opens just a bit...is that right?

I am going out to take a pic right now, standby...

whats the best way to check for leaks? and how do I adjust the float?

should i try .5 turn out on air screw?

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slide is hitting bottom when i release the throttle with a bit of play, and then when I adjust the idle screw it opens just a bit...is that right?

I am going out to take a pic right now, standby...

whats the best way to check for leaks? and how do I adjust the float?

should i try .5 turn out on air screw?

Yes Thats the Idle Screw...

the Air/Fuel screw in on the bottom of the carburetor intake side its (Hard to get at)

Follow the jetting guide I have posted about a million times... and makes a difference and it works....👍

read how to pick the pilot jet and how to pick the main jet

then read how to adjust the Air/fuel screw

its also possible to have a bum carb. but unlikely ive run across it only once with over 30 bikes ive worked on and jetted

Clip in the middle

im headed out to Dinner with my girlfriend...if I dont get lucky i'll be back on here.....Later

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coo, I am gonna take my buddys carb off and try his on my bike...if that works, then we could rule a few things out....but man, my bike sure feels hotter than his....

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If that's a stock air filter go with a Uni, unless its decent. The stocker on my bike was bootsy. Plan on a possible rejet if you do.

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Hmmmm this carburetor does not look familar to me

this is what has been comming on SSR Pitsters and OGM's

92.jpg

Can you take a picture of the Intake side....and other side

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Never seen that choke style lever before (first pic) if that's what it is.

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Make sure your throttle assembly isn't to tightly pushed toward the center of your handlebars too.....I put some shoe goo on a buddys grip and installed it this past weekend and the goo was causing a condition similar to yours. The throttle would stay open every so slightly from time to time due to the goo not allowing the throttle to return correctly.

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Make sure your throttle assembly isn't to tightly pushed toward the center of your handlebars too.....I put some shoe goo on a buddys grip and installed it this past weekend and the goo was causing a condition similar to yours. The throttle would stay open every so slightly from time to time due to the goo not allowing the throttle to return correctly.

just had this same thing happen to SGR throttle on a 165cc (Loco)motor...Wow...hang on....👍

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yeah, actually the first day i messed with it, the issue was the grip causing resistance on the housing...but I replaced it with an aluminum throttle assembly and solved that issue...but even with the throttle not sticking, its still not working

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