Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

KX 65 clutch slipping

Recommended Posts

Well I picked up a used KX 65 for my son yesterday, missed the boat on a KTM we we looked at. Former owner let me know that he had replaced the clutch plates himself and since then it had always slipped. I took it home and adjusted the free play and changed the oil, this helped a bit but it still slips bad if you accelerate hard.

So my question to anyone with an opinion, does any one have a idea of what i should look for or should i just remove everything and check and reassemble it? Or if this is a highly accurate job should I just take it to the shop? Years ago i replaced a clutch in my street bike and remember it being fairly straightforward.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it is pretty str8 forward, i would look at the clutch drum he probably replaced discs and not the drum, look for grooves or burns on the drum, also its easy to "GLAZE a new clutch" if they dont get broke in well, if it is glazed sometimes you can scrtochbrite them or sand them off but usually i would just replace them. and keep the glazed one as a back up.

have you tried adjusting the clutch?

i would take it apart anyway and look for anything obvious, dont assume he put it in right check disc stack and thickness etc. some guys play around with the clutch stack to get better holeshots or to keep there son on the pipe etc. i know i have 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Adjusting didnt help so I pulled it out, the steel and friction plates looked brand new. I can see no wear what so ever. Dont see any missing spacers or washers. The teeth on the hub look fine, small marks but nothing a fingernail can even feel. Looks like ill go out and get a feeler gauge to test thinkness today.

One thing i did notice that the bolts that hold the springs in place were not tight a bit. Skewed them off by hand.

Oh well will keep digging, thanks!:worthy:👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK so my manual diagram and bike bandit shows 2 friction and 2 steel plate. Mine has 5 steel and 5 plates! Is this the correct amount?? 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OK so my manual diagram and bike bandit shows 2 friction and 2 steel plate. Mine has 5 steel and 5 plates! Is this the correct amount?? 👍

depends on the clutch ours has 4+4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I checked the springs and they are definatly shorter then they should be, could that cause the clutch to slip?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I checked the springs and they are definatly shorter then they should be, could that cause the clutch to slip?

it can but like i said they might be that way on purpose to many people try to mod there clutch for there kids and end up screwing everything up i think a stock spring would be a good place to start back from. but you might also have to go back to a oem style clutch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, so first, what year KX65 - if you give more specific info, we can give more specific answers?

The diagram only shows 2 plates for ease of reference, you should actually have 4 clutch (steel) plates and 5 friction (cork) plates.

The springs will likely be fine, the screws need to be torqued properly.

The outer basket should be burr free on the fingers - it can be filed lighhtly once or twice, the inner hub could also have burrs on it - I have yet to find a way that can successfully remove them.

The clutch on these bikes likes to run on clean oil and also the proper oil.

If the prior owner was running regular automotive oil, it could lead to slipping because of the friction modifiers found in those oils - use only MC rated oil in the crankcase. You can try washing the friction plates with a solvent to get the old oil off, then pre soak them in the proper MC rated oil for an hour before installing.

To adjust your clutch, the lever/cable should have about 2-3 mm of free play before the cable engages the clutch, also - check part #13114 (clutch pusher) for wear at the tip - this could be worn short and cause most of your problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Matt and Jamracing for bearing with me and my limited knowledge!!!

I believe mine is a 2002, did not get a title and doing a vin search on the internet thats what came up.

You are rite mine has 4 steel and 5 friction plates. Mabye ill go buy a whole new set up or at least new friction plates although like I said I cant even see ANY signs of wear. Im going to the dealer tonight, Ill also get a new clutch pusher thanks for the tip!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the grooves in the friction plates still have good depth to them then the clutch should not be worn down yet, sometimes oil that's way too thick can cause slipping too (just like dirty oil will because it's also thicker).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shorter clutch springs don't necessarily dictate clutch slipping, if the springs are stiffer they may exert the same force as longer, softer springs that preload more after installing.

I would seat the screws right first - then try it - it may just be that because you were able to unscrew them by hand that the springs weren't even seated right.

You likely won't see any wear on the steel plates since the wear takes place on the cork surface of the friction plate, when they wear down to little or no drain slots in them (grooves) they will hold more oil between surfaces and slip.

If the steel plates are warped you don't get proper surface contact - once again it can cause slippage - pay the steel plates on a perfectly flat surface and inspect for flatness.

For $50 you can get a decent EBC clutch package that has everything including springs designed for the clutch/bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
👍 Here's another problem, I dont know the year of the bike because the previous owner lost the title, my local kawa dealer said he had no way of finding the year based on the vin, unbelievable! and wouldnt order any parts cus he said they may differ and that could be my problem, it could have the wrong parts in it! what a pain in the ass!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing has really changed that much in most of the components, there's always a number of years where nothing changes other than graphics.

Can you post up a few pics, we can likely narrow it down if it hasn't been altered much. show us all sides

Also just so you know - the clutch hasn't changed (at least from 00 - 07 it hasn't) since there's only ONE replacement clutch part# from all the aftermarket manufacturers.

http://shop.thumpertalk.com/catalogs/Tucker_Rocky_Offroad_2007/default.asp?p=413&s=2

http://shop.thumpertalk.com/catalogs/Tucker_Rocky_Offroad_2007/default.asp?p=407

Remember, 99% of the time - you will actually know more than the guy at the dealer - he's getting minimum wage to stand there and order parts off a microfiche - using his brain is not part of the job requirement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well i went the kawa web site, found the vin on frame,

http://kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/SITE/VIVEHICLEINFORMATION/VICHOOSEVEHICLE.ASP

and confirmed its a 2006. Looking at the engine # - KX06AE049074 I thought it was a KXA (2000-2003) so that originally got me confused. Hopefully I can get these parts ordered and in!!! My kid is dying to get going!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well i went the kawa web site, found the vin on frame,

http://kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame.aspx?strContentURL=/SITE/VIVEHICLEINFORMATION/VICHOOSEVEHICLE.ASP

and confirmed its a 2006. Looking at the engine # - KX06AE049074 I thought it was a KXA (2000-2003) so that originally got me confused. Hopefully I can get these parts ordered and in!!! My kid is dying to get going!!!

i think it sucks your local dealer told you he cant look up the VIN to see what year the bike is. thats such B.S. the truth is he didnt want to take the time, because you were not a buyer.

they all have access to the vin codes just like i do its right in the factory service manual.

if i was you i would call back ask for a parts manager, then explain how he just lost a future customer or maybe old customer for this lack of help, something so simple it takes less then a couple minutes to complete,

im sure he will not be happy with the employee who didnt want to take the time to help you out, tell them they just lost a 500 dollar sell on parts cause you did not know the year and the guy wouldnt help you.

even if the guy said im busy right now with paying customers can i take your number and call you back when i get time that would have been ok but to just tell you he has no way to check is 👍

i bet if you call the manager he will end up offering you a discount or something for the obvious lack of customer appreciation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the bolts on the clutch springs were loose then they didn't have preload - you're probably ok just taking some scotch-brite or LIGHT sandpaper to the steels and then re-assembling putting proper pre-load on the clutch springs (and thus the pressure plate that pushes the clutches and steels firmly together)

Remember - this is a real basic setup -the springs are there to provide clamping force to push the steel plates and frictions together with enough FORCE to prevent slippage. If you look at it it's pretty straight forward - one set is connected to the inner splined drive and the other to the outer basket/hub. When the plate forces them together they become one and operate as one...

If you can't get the right preload on the springs then it's time for new springs - or time to shim the springs up a bit until they bite... If the pressure plate bottoms out before the clutches do then you'll need an additional steel or steel shim in the pack to make up the clearance. It's just like an automatic tranny operates :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i am going to buy a new clutch for the 65 this time im going barnett instead of hinson, and going with a wiseco clutch basket, anyone have any problems with either of these parts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to be safe I bought new friction plates, springs, and the pusher you mentioned. Thanks for your guys help ill let you know how it turns out!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My sons 02 kx 65 clutch is slipping really bad. Does anyone have any advice as to what clutch parts i need to get to fix this. Any advice will be helpful. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...