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Maxima Super M premix

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I love the smell, that's why I put a little in my 450 gas.

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lol thats really funny:applause: 2T exaust smells so good but i bet urs does too

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super M smells like 2 stroke exhaust to me. what exactly smells funny to you?

BTW castor 927 smells heavenly!

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Idk but yesterday i was riding with my friend and my bike smelt different than his..i liked his, his smelt like the 2 stroke i smell when i go to the track mine hasnt smelled like that since i bought the bike and i got a gas tank filled halfway with the bike from the previous owner and idk what premix he used.

When i inhale my bikes smoke to much i get wooozy lol with my friends i feel brandy new!

LOL

Im trying belray premix next..i kno i kno stick to one premix but im not to pleased with maxima right now...any ideas of others to use if you feel that belray isnt to great either (which is what ive heard some ppl say)

Thanks

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I recently learned, from the guys on bannedcr500riders.com, the benefits of castor based oils like Maxima's 927.

Here's a good read:

"CASTOR OIL

By Bert Striegler.

Back in 1983 there was quite a controversy in magazines about the tests that were necessary to measure the "lubricity" of various oils that might be useful in engines. Castor oil was used as the benchmark, but it was obvious no one knew why this was so. They apparently got a lot of info on various industry tests of lubricants, but these were really designed for other purposes. This was my answer. I will remind you that I was a lubrication engineer and not a chemist, but I drew my chemical info from Bob Durr, the most experienced lubricant scientist in the labs at Conoco.

Bob worked with my group on many product development projects and I can tell you that he is one smart hombre! Small changes were made in the text, but surprisingly very little has really changed since this was originally written. Here goes with the answer:

"I thought I would answer your plea for more information on castor oil and its "film strength", which can be a very misleading term. I have never really seen a satisfactory way to measure the film strength of an oil like castor oil. We routinely use tests like the Falex test, the Timken test or the Shell 4-ball test, but these are primarily designed to measure the effect of chemical extreme pressure agents such as are used in gear oils. These "EP" agents have no function in an IC engine, particularly the two-stroke model engine types.

You really have to go back to the basics of lubrication to get a better handle on what happens in a engine. For any fluid to act as a lubricant, it must first be "polar" enough to wet the moving surfaces. Next, it must have a high resistance to surface boiling and vaporization at the temperatures encountered. Ideally the fluid should have "oiliness", which is difficult to measure but generally requires a rather large molecular structure. Even water can be a good lubricant under the right conditions.

Castor oil meets these rather simple requirements in an engine, with only one really severe drawback in that it is thermally unstable. This unusual instability is the thing that lets castor oil lubricate at temperatures well beyond those at which most synthetics will work.

Castor oil is roughly 87% triglyceride of ricinoleic acid, [ (CH3(CH2)5CH(OH)CH2CH=CH(CH2)7COO)3(OC)3H5 ], which is unique because there is a double bond in the 9th position and a hydroxyl in the 11th position. As the temperature goes up, it loses one molecule of water and becomes a "drying" oil. Another look at the molecule. Castor oil has excellent storage stability at room temperatures, but it polymerizes rapidly as the temperature goes up. As it polymerizes, it forms ever-heavier "oils" that are rich in esters. These esters do not even begin to decompose until the temperature hits about 650 degrees F (343 deg C). Castor oil forms huge molecular structures at these elevated temperatures - in other words, as the temperature goes up, the castor oil exposed to these temperatures responds by becoming an even better lubricant!

Unfortunately, the end byproduct of this process is what we refer to as "varnish." So, you can't have everything, but you can come close by running a mixture of castor oil with polyalkylene glycol like Union Carbide's UCON, or their MA 731. This mixture has some synergistic properties, or better properties than either product had alone. As an interesting sidelight, castor oil can be stabilized to a degree by the addition of Vitamin E (Tocopherol) in small quantities, but if you make it too stable it would no longer offer the unusual high temperature protection that it did before.

Castor oil is not normally soluble in ordinary petroleum oils, but if you polymerize it for several hours at 300 degrees F (149 deg C), the polymerized oil becomes soluble. Hydrogenation achieves somewhat the same effect.

Castor oil has other unique properties. It is highly polar and has a great affinity for metal surfaces.

It has a flash point of only 445 degrees F (229 deg C), but its fire point is about 840 degrees F (449 deg C)! This is very unusual behavior if you consider that polyalkylene glycols flash at about 350-400 degrees F (176-204 deg C)and have a fire point of only about 550 degrees F (288 deg C), or slightly higher.

Nearly all of the common synthetics that we use burn in the combustion chamber if you get off too lean.

Castor oil does not, because it is busily forming more and more complex polymers as the temperature goes up. Most synthetics boil on the cylinder walls at temperatures slightly above their flash point. The same activity can take place in the wrist pin area, depending on engine design.

Synthetics also have another interesting feature - they would like to return to the materials from which they were made, usually things like ethylene oxide, complex alcohols, or other less suitable lubricants. This happens very rapidly when a critical temperature is reached. We call this phenomena "unzippering" for obvious reasons.

So, you have a choice. Run the engine too lean and it gets too hot. The synthetic burns or simply vaporizes, but castor oil decomposes into a soft varnish and a series of ester groups that still have powerful lubricity.

Good reason for a mix of the two lubricants! ( " 927 " is a mix as described here!)

In spite of all this, the synthetics are still excellent lubricants if you know their limitations and work within those limits. Used properly, engine life will be good with either product. Cooked on a lean run, castor oil will win every time. A mix of the two can give the best of both worlds.

Like most things in this old life, lubricants are always a compromise of good and bad properties. Synthetics yield a clean engine, while castor oil yields a dirty engine, but at least now you know why! "

Bert Striegler

Bert was the Sr. Research Eng'r. (ret.) at Conoco Oil Co.

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Can you guys tell me some good quality synthetic pre-mix's? thanks

Not sure what mixture ratio you're using but hopefully nothing leaner than 32:1 in a 125. I believe that any and I mean any modern two stroke oil made for motorcycle use will be great and in no way will you be able to tell the difference between brands.

For more opinions of the best oils to use - check this.

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we mostly run spectro 2t and love it,

klotz r50 or amsoil interceptor are both good as well.

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Not sure what mixture ratio you're using but hopefully nothing leaner than 32:1 in a 125. I believe that any and I mean any modern two stroke oil made for motorcycle use will be great and in no way will you be able to tell the difference between brands.

For more opinions of the best oils to use - check this.

Im runnning 32:1 right now but im getting a lot of spooge and the previous owner ran 40:1 and he think he had it jetted for 40:1 so thats what im goin back to untill i get my new exhaust and have the bike properly jetted at 32:1

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I've run Klotz and Castor 927. They both smell good, Klotz smells good right out of the bottle!

I've also run Yamalube and Amsoil Dominator.

There was some dude at a track and his bike smelled like smarties. Anyone know what premix smells like smarties? I also remember one smelling like cotton candy, which one is that?

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Has anyone heard of, or experienced castor oil gumming up your power valve?? Ive heard someone saying in a new two stroke you need to run full synthetic otherwise you will be cleaning and rebuilding your PV..

true or not???

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Did anyone notice that Maxima Super M premix smells a little funky?

hmhmm. funny. First time i used that last weekend my bike blew up. Isnt it just Great?!:thumbsup:

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Castor 927 and a 50/50 pump/race gas combo. My quad riding buddies love following me around on the trails. Not much will smell better.

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Has anyone heard of, or experienced castor oil gumming up your power valve?? Ive heard someone saying in a new two stroke you need to run full synthetic otherwise you will be cleaning and rebuilding your PV..

true or not???

all oil will gum up the powervalve over time, If you read the article posted, you would know why It happens sooner with a caster based oil than and Ester or Synthetic oil.

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