Help, BIG performance problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[brut666]

Ok, it like this. 2006 drz s brought new, put a dyno stage 1 kit on it with a k and n filter on it and a full dep exhaust. 134 main jet needle on 4th clip. Very pleased with it. My dad's got a STOCK dr 350 so naturally it was faster. Both of us run with a 14t front and a 47t rear sprocket. Now i've done the 3x3 mod, thats a 142 main and 25 pilot, needle still on the 4th clip and screw at 2.75, i've even put a full yosh rs2 on it as well. Went out with my dad today and he was all over me like white on rice, the straights i couldn't get near him. Not at all. So clearly some things wrong, maybe need to move the clip, i'm not sure. All i know is that the bike is now slower than stock but worse than that it's slower than a 10 year old stock dr 350. Any ideas would be a great help, as i really and i mean really, don't like my dad laughing at me.?

[xr6riderx]

Are you saying that you beat him before ever. I'm confused, since you changed the jetting, airbox mod and went to a yosh rs-2 the bike got slower than before?

[brut666]

Yep thats right. When i just had the dyno kit and the dep it was quicker. With the 3x3 mod and yosh it's slower than it was, slower than stock and slower than a stock 350.

[xr6riderx]

I'm not sure, that is wierd.

[DRZDUal]

looks like skeletor got the best of your bike.......

sorry couldn't resist

[1999xr650lman]

Bigger main jet maybe?

[brut666]

You aint kidding!!! I will get a fcr one day but I'm in the middle of buying a house so no spare money:cry: , then my girlfriend tells me we've a 2nd baby on the way and to top it all off, the head gasket went on my zx9r yesterday. ROCK-ME-HARDPLACE:mad:

[blowjoe1]

Maybe I am misunderstanding your situation but if you have full exhaust, 3x3

your main jet would need to be 160

22.5 pilot jet (stock) with kientech fuel screw or

25 pilot jet with stock fuel screw

[brut666]

According to the master 3x3 mod, an s has a 140 with stock exhaust and 142 with full exhasut. It says 150 main on a sm. Tho i've never known the reson for why.

[brut666]

Not sure what this means but i took the air box cover off and tried it and it was even slower.

[blowjoe1]

According to the master 3x3 mod, an s has a 140 with stock exhaust and 142 with full exhasut. It says 150 main on a sm. Tho i've never known the reson for why.

Well the S and SM have the same Carb and Engine, maybe someone can correct me but I thought jetting specs were the same for either one.

[stringburner]

Do you have the Tec-Insert removed from the muffler?

[npm]

Dyno Jet makes two kits, stage 1 and 2. I believe the needles are different in each kit and so require different size jets. Do you know what exact kit you got? If you took the lid off and the problem got worse thats a sign you are too lean on the jet.

[Wayward Son]

needs bigger main jet.

[kman780]

I agree with everyone here on the main jet.

I also remember reading about a DRZ with some kind of restricter plate in the intake to limit horsepower...

[stringburner]

Not sure what this means but i took the air box cover off and tried it and it was even slower.

Determining the proper main jet:

"Starting with the recommended main, remove the airbox door and go for a ride (bike fully warmed up). Is it better or worse?

If it is better, you need a smaller main.

Go down one size, replace the airbox door, ride. Remove the airbox door and test again. Better or worse? If better, go down a size again. Keep repeating this till the test with the airbox door is worse.

If it was worse with the airbox door removed, tape over 1/3 of your 3X3, test.

If it is worse now with the tape and was worse with the airbox door off, your main is just right. You are done!

If it seems better, you need to go up a size in main jet. Test it again (remove the tape). Replace the tape, test again. If with the tape on it is better, go up another size in main. Keep repeating this till having the tape on is worse than with it off.

To finish up and ensure you are set accurately, retest the bike with the tape off, ride it, then remove the airbox door. Best performance should be with the airbox untapped, airbox door on.

Remember, the main only operates at WOT. Ideally, you want to be in 3rd of 4th gear doing the tests, hitting max revs (just shy of the limiter) for at least 10 seconds to get an accurate representation of the jet status

[ebrabaek]

I use to run the excact same setup as you now have. Only difference is I am at 1300 meters. Had 25 Pj...stock 142.5 Mj. So you should have one or two sizes bigger Mj i would think. When you took the door off it went even leaner underscoring the need for a bigger main.

Erling

[iowaBClivewire]

this is a UK bike

did you remove the slider stop from the diyafram cap ???

[Neil Claydon]

Have you removed the pair valve system, and the vacuum control solenoid system.

Most UK S model do not need the 25 pilot jet, carb drillings are not the same as USA ones, "This does not apply to SM's"

Other things to check are the carb to manifold and air box joints, and the carb needle assembly, all in the right order, and properly secured in the slide

this is a UK bike

did you remove the slider stop from the diyafram cap ???

Unless the bike has been restricted for license reasons, not applicable.

Neil. ?

[punisher14]

Remember, the main only operates at WOT. Ideally, you want to be in 3rd of 4th gear doing the tests, hitting max revs (just shy of the limiter) for at least 10 seconds to get an accurate representation of the jet status

well, sorta, the mj operates between 5/8 throttle opening and 100% throttle opening. Great graph online shows this.

http://www.ducatitech.com/2v/img/fcr_graphs.gif