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which pipe guard should I get?


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I have a 2006 yz250 and I dented my PC platinum 2 really bad so I am going to replace it with a stock 2007 pipe that I bought off of ebay. Well I dont want to dent another pipe so I am going to buy a pipe guard as well. Which would you recomend? I was looking at the hyde racing pipe/skid plate but I already have a works connection skid plate, but if its the best protection I will just buy it anyways. I like the look of the p3 carbon guards but I dont want one thats going to be disposable. Then there is the aluminum ones there cheap but wont they dent with the pipe........ I ride on the river bar so there is alot of rocks thrown at it so it needs to be tuff.

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I heard that the E line CF guards are not near as thick as the P3 racing CF. I know that P3 made the older E line guards but e line makes the new ones and they skimp on the CF. I only want to buy a pipe guard onece so I dont mind spending the $$$. I have read to many bad things about the hyde racing setup so know its steel vs carbon fiber.

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Can you guys post a link to the P3 sight??? I would love to see what its all about.

Pipe guards...keep in mind, something has to give when something gets hit hard.

If you have the super strong pipe and the super strong guard, the next weak link is the cylinder where the pipe attaches.

Give me a dented pipe and guard any day over a ripped off cylinder spigot.

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I have had good luck with E-line c/f pipeguards, myself.

Sometimes the noise from a hard rock hit will cause me to pull over and look, but never any damage.

Ditto. In my opinion the carbon fiber pipe guards are better than the metal ones. I've put some nice battle scars on my E-line pipe guard, but it's never broken and my pipe is dent free. The carbon fiber guards flex and then rebound and disburse the impact across the entire guard.

I've dented metal pipe guards which have in turn dented the pipe underneath.

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After I read this I wasn't too worried about the dents in my pipe...I plan on replacing it but the 4-5 dents I have right now...seem to do nothing...my YZ rips.

Unless your just slamming your pipe constantly maybe you can just not buy a guard at all...there are some risks even with a guard in place: Just a thought.

Imagine that you just plunked down big bucks for a new exhaust pipe from On The Pipe Racing. You show up at the track with it looking good, sounding good and running good. All in all, it's too good to be true.

After practice, you are admiring your bike from the luxury of a lawn chair when you first spot it. A dent! A big dent! In your brand new $190 exhaust pipe. You scramble over to the remnants and rub your hand in the egg-shaped concave. A rock, you surmise. A big rock! And it hit your pipe dead center.

In the motocross world, this is euphemistically called a speed dent.

THE QUESTION OF THE AGES

Has that dent ruined the performance of your brand new pipe? If so, by how much?

We strapped a brand new KTM 125 to a dyno and tried to discover what effect dents have on exhaust pipes. Here is the deal.

THE SMALL DENT

After making a few baseline runs on our KTM 125, we mounted a brand new Pro Circuit exhaust pipe. Voila! It gained 1 1/2 horsepower at peak (11,200 rpm). Then, we dented it (exactly 10 inches from the exhaust manifold). To make the dent, we hit the first cone with a ball peen hammer. We hit it hard, producing a two-inch wide by 1/2-inch deep depression.

Small dent results: Surprise! We gained an average of 1/10th of a horsepower from the bottom-end up to 12,000 rpm. Believe it or not, the small dent produced more power through the range and made 1/5th of a horsepower more at peak. After peak horsepower, however, there was a loss of power compared to the undented run.

THE LARGE DENT

Shocked by the results of our first test, we applied more force (via the implementation of a much larger hammer). Our small dent was now a large dent. The new dent was 3 inches in diameter and 3/4 of an inch deep.

Large dent results: Holy smokes! With the large dent the peak power was again 1/5th of a horsepower more, but more shocking was that the powerband was broader at max. On the downside, over-rev dropped off just like with the small dent.

HEAD PIPE DENT

In the first two tests we had simulated typical rock dents caused by roost. In test three we were looking for a head pipe ding (approximately six-inches away from the exhaust flange instead of ten-inches). Our dent was a small, one-inch diameter dent with a 1/2-inch depth. This kind of dent comes from rocks thrown up by your own front wheel, ramming downed bikes or casing jumps.

Head pipe dent results: Disaster! At 6000 rpm we were down half a horse, at 8000 rpm the two pipes were equal, at 11,000 rpm the dented head pipe was down a half horse again, and at peak power it was down a full horsepower. Obviously a dent in the head pipe is serious.

CENTER CONE DENT

Just for kicks, we slammed the side of the pipe (at its largest diameter) with a sledge hammer. This kind of dent is very rare, but can be the result of a fall-over or run-over style accident. To make it more interesting, we left the head pipe dent and first cone dents in the pipe to see if the center cone dent could add to the misery.

Center cone dent results: There was no difference in horsepower output with a center cone dent.

WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?

There are three conclusions to be drawn from On The Pipe Racing's speed dent test:

(1) The worst dent is one located in the first six inches of the exhaust pipe. A dent in the head pipe will hurt both the bottom and the top (and the fall-off before peak will be significant). If your exhaust pipe gets a dent in the head pipe (or even worse, is squashed flat) it needs to be replaced.

(2) The typical rock dent in the pipe's first cone (approximately ten-inches away from the exhaust flange) is nothing to worry about. Although it can cost some over-rev on top, it does not hurt horsepower at or below peak (quite the contrary).

(3) Center cone dents are not a big deal.

(4) Check out the GARAGE SALE for newly dented pipes

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Interesting read.

I had an E-Line guard that I bought way back in 2004 so I'm not sure if its the thinner cheaper version. But I could not bend it or move it any way by applying force so I think I got the strong one. I can vouch for this one and if they were still this tough I would buy another.

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