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no spark but soon a big fire !!


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plse can someone shed light on an aggravating situation .

i still have no spark on this 86 xr 100 r

does it need a cdi unit ?, or ignition module , i am obviously missing a part but neither the fiche nor the local dealer shows what i'm missing

microfiche shows two different setups ..what gives??

if i don't get spark soon , then 5 gal of gas and a match should solve everything !!

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Your bike has point ignition. Here's what I recommend for anyone having problems getting proper spark with point ignition bikes. [i'm beginning to think this should really be a sticky as I feel like I'm typing this up almost every day for people that are having trouble getting spark]:

1)Remove the left hand side engine side cover and look through the cut-outs on the flywheel and you'll see the points, you hay need to turn the flywheel a bit. Now use a small point file [if you don't have one you can use a small, thin strip of sandpaper folded over so the "sand" part is on the top AND on the bottom] and gently isert it between the point contacts and file them just enough so that both contacts look shiny. [if you're using sandpaper, you'll need to open the points with a small screwdriver, push the sandpaper in between the contacts, and then drag the paper back out with the pressure of the points spring squeezing the sandpaper]This will be easier with the flywheel off, but you can still do it with it on and may take a lot of sanding before they are look nice and shiny.

2)Now you want to clean the contacts. Take a piece of white printer paper and cut 2 or 3, 1/4 inch strips. Now once agin open up the points and slide the thin strip of paper between the contacts, let the pressure of the point spring squeeze the paper, then drag the paper back out. Repeat this 7 or 8 times, tearing off the end of the paper that you just dragged through the dirty contacts, so you have a nice clean strip of paper each time.

3) Set point gap. Gap should be .012~.016

4) Check for spark [make sure you have a new spark plug or now that the one you are useing works] If no spark, use the paper again 2 or three times just to make sure they are free of debris.

Still no voltage? Get back to me and I'll explain how to test the stator coil.

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Your bike has point ignition. Here's what I recommend for anyone having problems getting proper spark with point ignition bikes. [i'm beginning to think this should really be a sticky as I feel like I'm typing this up almost every day for people that are having trouble getting spark]:

1)Remove the left hand side engine side cover and look through the cut-outs on the flywheel and you'll see the points, you hay need to turn the flywheel a bit. Now use a small point file [if you don't have one you can use a small, thin strip of sandpaper folded over so the "sand" part is on the top AND on the bottom] and gently isert it between the point contacts and file them just enough so that both contacts look shiny. [if you're using sandpaper, you'll need to open the points with a small screwdriver, push the sandpaper in between the contacts, and then drag the paper back out with the pressure of the points spring squeezing the sandpaper]This will be easier with the flywheel off, but you can still do it with it on and may take a lot of sanding before they are look nice and shiny.

2)Now you want to clean the contacts. Take a piece of white printer paper and cut 2 or 3, 1/4 inch strips. Now once agin open up the points and slide the thin strip of paper between the contacts, let the pressure of the point spring squeeze the paper, then drag the paper back out. Repeat this 7 or 8 times, tearing off the end of the paper that you just dragged through the dirty contacts, so you have a nice clean strip of paper each time.

3) Set point gap. Gap should be .012~.016

4) Check for spark [make sure you have a new spark plug or now that the one you are useing works] If no spark, use the paper again 2 or three times just to make sure they are free of debris.

Still no voltage? Get back to me and I'll explain how to test the stator coil.

That deserves a little gas.?

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many thks for reply ..

still no spark,

points and stator and stator backing plate are brand new

gap is set

flywheel magnets look fine ...no broken pieces etc

pwr emits from this setup ..ie test light glows when connected to output wire and grounded to frame.

coil ...checks out good at bike shop down the road

plug cap ...good continuity

condensor ..mounted at frame ...new

plug ...new, even tried other plugs ..nothing

this is how i have set it up .

point gap as directed

points just opening as flywheel aproaches "F" mark on flywheel (indiator on housing)

out put wire to coil ,which in turn is tied into condensor

no stop connected

coil out put to plug

?

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You can always swap out the whole ignition for a CDI ignition and fix it once and for all. It will cost some coin, but it will be fixed. I remember one guy on here spent at least six weeks fussing with and still never got it right. I say why not pay a little bit and be riding it within a week with no more frustration. A lot of times what happen is over time water and crap get into the flywheel and corrode and rust out the advancer making it work erratically or not at all. Just my 2 cents.

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many thks for reply ..

still no spark,

points and stator and stator backing plate are brand new

gap is set

flywheel magnets look fine ...no broken pieces etc

pwr emits from this setup ..ie test light glows when connected to output wire and grounded to frame.

coil ...checks out good at bike shop down the road

plug cap ...good continuity

condensor ..mounted at frame ...new

plug ...new, even tried other plugs ..nothing

this is how i have set it up .

point gap as directed

points just opening as flywheel aproaches "F" mark on flywheel (indiator on housing)

out put wire to coil ,which in turn is tied into condensor

no stop connected

coil out put to plug

?

You should have .5~.8 volts from the ignition wire that comes from the engine case/stator when kicking the engine over {if not, recheck points etc.}

If you have proper voltage from ignition wire, then check voltage where the wire goes into the coil. You'll have one wire going to the condensor and one wire going to the coil and the condensor is grounded to the coil/frame.

If you have voltage going into the condensor and coil but no voltage at the plug wire, then either the condensor is faulty and/or not properly grounded or the ignition coil is faulty or not properly grounded. If you have voltage near the engine case but not at the coil, then check for breaks in the wire or for defective kill switch. If everything checks out there and you still have no spark, then you know it's the plugwire or the plug boot.

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