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Eddie - please confirm DRZ400E jetting

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I am going to make some changes and was hoping you could weigh in since you are the DRZ expert.

Bike/Mods/Env: Stock 2006 400E with FCR (non-MX) carb. I do plan to remove the snorkel. Most riding is between 1000 - 2500' during 50 - 90 F.

I've spent a few hours searching old posts on here and it looks like I should start at:

155 main jet (up from 142 stock)

5 clip on stock DXP needle (down from 4 stock)

45 pilot jet (stock)

2.5 turns fuel screw (out from 1.5 stock) - will be changing to keintech extended fuel screw, too

I will also check AP squirt duration and do Taffy mod, if over 1.5 secs.

Do you recommend that I remove the coast enrichener and change the pilot air jet to 100 while I'm at it?

Finally, in your opinion, would the JD jet kit needle or a different Keihin needle provide much better performance over the stock DXP?

Thanks for your help.

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good plan.

most are satified with the stock DXP needle.

i personally prefer the EMN.cont go wrong with the JD needles either.

you can remove the CE if oyu like by using the 100 pilto air jet.some simply connect to the 2 nippled on the cabr with a short peice of hose.

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drz 400 e/s

ive just blown up the gear box on my drz400E 01

so ive gone and bought a complet drz400S 04 engine to replace it , at a cheaper than repair price,

the 400E engine went ace before this , is it any more tuned than the s engine if so in what respects , as ive to sets of decent heads and barrels and one decent bottom end , what to do ????? ,and the wireing is the same . just a bout, ive now got a netruel light switch. which wont be used ...

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drz 400 e/s

ive just blown up the gear box on my drz400E 01

so ive gone and bought a complet drz400S 04 engine to replace it , at a cheaper than repair price,

the 400E engine went ace before this , is it any more tuned than the s engine if so in what respects , as ive to sets of decent heads and barrels and one decent bottom end , what to do ????? ,and the wireing is the same . just a bout, ive now got a netruel light switch. which wont be used ...

WTH? 👍 This a thread about jetting a DRZ400E. Start a new thread!

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Eddie,

Was hoping you could comment on:

EPN needle - I bought an EPN needle through Yamaha because of Sudco's minimum order and the fact that it's anodized Al instead of brass. P is 0.9mm longer than M, but it's my understanding that a 1 clip position chg is also 0.9mm. Therefore, I'm just going to run the EPN at clip 4, which should be the same as EMN 3. Sound good to you?

Final starting settings, unless I hear otherwise:

155 main jet

4 clip on EPN

45 pilot jet (stock)

2.5 turns w/kientech extended fuel screw

1-1.5s AP squirt w/ collar, if needed

Thanks for your help.

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Was finally able to make the changes. Bike runs great except for a slight off-idle hesitation sometimes when I blip the throttle from idle. The hesitation was much worse when stock.

Also, when I tried to fine-tune the fuel screw I could not make the bike idle poorly or die by turning it full-in at factory idle speeds. It does die when it's turned out too far. During troubleshooting I also turned down the idle very low just to make sure I wasn't on the needle and I still got the same results.

The lack of change on full-in and slight hesitation leads me to believe I am too rich on the pilot. This is puzzling to me since numerous people here are able to dial in a 45 with no problem with a setup like mine.

Setup:

snorkel removed

stock muffler

1000' - 2500' MSL

50 - 90 F

freshly cleaned/oiled air filter

Current carb setup:

155 main

45 pilot

EPN needle - 4th clip

kientech ext fuel screw - 1 turn out

CE on

No taffy mod

Does taking off the airbox panel affect the pilot circuit at idle? - i.e. Would I be able to simulate a leaner pilot by doing this? If it adjusts with the airbox panel off, then I would know moving to 42 is the solution.

I guess I could also pull and inspect the fuel screw. O-ring/taper not fully seating?

What about a faulty CE enrichening the mixture at idle? Maybe I should I block it off and test?

If all else fails, I guess I will just move down to a 42 pilot and try to adjust it again.

Any thoughts on what else might be causing this? Thanks for your help.

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[quoteDoes taking off the airbox panel affect the pilot circuit at idle? - i.e. Would I be able to simulate a leaner pilot by doing this? If it adjusts with the airbox panel off, then I would know moving to 42 is the solution.

]

no,doesnt work that way.

I will also pull and inspect fuel screw. O-ring/taper not fully seating?

possible

What about a faulty CE enrichening the mixture at idle? Maybe I should I block it off and test?

possible.you dont block off.connect the 2 carb nipples together.

If all else fails, I guess I will just move down to a 42 pilot and try to adjust it again.

good

Any thoughts on what else might be causing this?

worn needle jet.

also if the pump squirt is more than 1.5 seconds it will bog regardless.

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Eddie, thanks for the info and quick reply.

I think it's unlikely that it's a worn needle since the bike only has about 25 hours on it. Also, I did check the AP squirt with the carb off before and it was around 1.5 - 2s. Hence, I skipped the Taffy mod.

I'll proceed as planned, but if that doesn't work I'll move to a 42.

I'm really hoping that the bog is due to the pilot being too rich. If the bog still persists once the pilot adjusts correctly, I guess it will be time to do the Taffy mod.

Thanks again.

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worn needle jet.not needle.

Sorry, I didn't preview my post. I meant needle jet, not needle. The bike was bought new this year as a left over, so it only has ~25 hours on it total.

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Did some more experimenting today and I think I got it dialed in now. Even though I turned the idle down quite a bit before to make sure I wasn't on the needle when adjusting, I think I still was.

First, I warmed it up. Next, I turned the fuel screw all the way in. Then I turned the idle knob down until it stalled. Next, I opened the fuel screw 1 turn and it started, but barely idled. When I turned the screw in to 0.5 it stalled. Then I turned it back to 1 and started it again. Then I turned it out and at stalled again at 2 turns out. I then set it at the difference at 1.25 and adjusted the idle back up to 1700 RPM or so. The bog is still there, but it only happens when I repeatedly blip the throttle off-idle in N. This makes sense to me because it's probably just due to the AP loading up the intake.

At any rate, I wanted to thank everyone for their help.

One last question I had was about needles. Does needle diameter affect the A/F ratio at idle? In other words, does fuel still move around the straight part of the needle even when its fully seated at idle?

I ask because I'm running an EPN. Its diameter is 2.725 vs 2.735 for the DXP. Maybe this explains why I needed to set the fuel screw leaner at 1.25 vs the 2.5 that's typically recommended for the DXP.

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