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Choke Plug unnecessary?

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After many years of avoiding the pitbike scene I broke down and bought a 08 klx110 a few days ago. Immediately began research to find different mods I could make in order to let the thing breathe a little easier.

Bored out the washer in the head pipe and made the air box cut, along with jetting to 42/90 (all the shop had). My question is for the mj and pj is two bros the only route? Would like to get a handful of each but prices are a little steep. Anyone willing to sell a 40/85 setup?

As for the choke plug, if you unscrew the plate inside the carb and pop off the black cap that covers the linkage & rod you can remove it all and put the cap back on. This leaves the choke setup inplace without the internals (looks stock). Just thought I'd share, haven't seen a discussion about it.

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you need to plug that hole up with a dowl, or buy a choke plug kit from joker or you can get it from any local shop in a parts unlimited book. Its way to easy to get dust in there and the air will flow different with the hole on the inside of the carb. The pilot jet can only get from two bros but the main you can use a round keihin slow jet, same sizes as the ones from two bros but different color

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What Fmffitty Said Is True. You Have T O Plug The Hole. As Fas As Jets Go, 42/90 Is Way Too Big. I Got A 40/85 And Ended Up Putting The Stock Pj (38) Back In. It Just Lagged Too Much On The Bottom. As Far As Choices, Just Go To Your Local Shop. Im Sure Thay Can Help You Out. I Think The Main Jet Is Only Like 8 Bucks...

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You can get the jets from Sudco, but it's like a 4 jet minimum, so you may as well get the TBR jets.

Believe me when I tell you this... I have 4 KLX110's in various states of tune. If you aren't going to get a pipe and cam, or aren't doing a big bore... DO NOT REJET IT, DRILL OUT THE HEAD PIPE, OR PUT A CAM IN IT WITH THE STOCK PIPE!!! It will make less power than stock, and run worse! I already went that route. I did a BBR cam, 4 speed drum- (that's a good mod for a bone stock motor, no problem with that), 40/85 jetting, 14/38 gearing- (no problem with that either), and a drilled out head pipe on my practice bike. I also have a showroom floor stock '05 KLX110 sitting around. I rode them both back to back to back. The showroom stock bike was way more powerful than the modded one. I had a guy at BBR on the phone regarding something else, and ran the scenario past him. He said that Duane (Brown) tried that exact thing before with the same results as I had. The bike ran worse than the showroom stock setup.

I have a formula that works pretty dog gone well on my practice thrasher. Here it is: don't do anything to the engine except for a 4th gear drum-- get the OEM Kaw one from Thailand that CHP sells-- don't get an aluminum Kitaco or Takegawa drum. Upgrade the phillips screws in the motor to Honda hex heads. A clutch is nice, but I don't run one on the practice bike, just my racer. It makes sense to run 15/38 or even 15/40 gearing. The bigger front sprocket helps to keep the chain from tearing through the chain slider.

Chassiswise: An off the shelf Works shock set up for 190-210 lb. riders-- $269-$289. A set of BBR damping rods up front, and one BBR fork spring paired with one stock one-- it works! Get the tapered steering bearings-- $20.99 on Ebay, and the Pivot Works swingarm pivot roller bearings-- $69.99 from Dennis Kirk. Raise the forks up 3/4 of an inch in the tree with the Works shock and fork configuration that I described. Get an Outlaw or BBR chain guide and a BBR chain roller up front for sure. Another thing-- a rim lock on the rear is a must if you're going to jump the bike unless you want to have a flat rear tire every time you jump the bike-- that, and 17-20 psi. Check the tire pressure every time you ride!

As far as tires, bars, etc., that's all preference. I like Bridgestones, and Tag bars for a KX65. If you want a pic of my bike that runs this set up PM me with your home EM, and I'll send you one. I like thrashing on this bike more than my race bike-- it's more fun!-- and it takes everything I can throw at it. Everyone will tell you different things-- but I can assure you that I know my $hit with these bikes, as I've been through 4 builds-- and have had to work through a ton of problems. Learn from my bad experiences! ---L*64

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Hi,

Bought my kid a new drz 125 l ( great little bike ) . My 11 year old kid is not yet ready to ride confidently on this bike , so I bought him a 2003 klx 110 to let him learn the ropes . Hope to sell it as soon as hes on the 125

It is always a risk to buy s/hand and have found that the bike when it gets warm starts to cut out intermittently . It will generally restart and run okay but its quite annoying when it happens I would appreciate some feedback.

The engine sounds ok to me and seems to pull ok too.

How easy is it to do a check over ?

I will replace the spark plug , check the air filter and clean the fuel carb bowl if need be.

Thanks for any help put forward

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the only thing i could thing off is its getting too hot, not sure why it would keep shutting off like that? anyways, if i were you i would sell the drz125 if i were you RP. the reason i say this is because instead of upgrading to a bigger bike, you should just upgrade the 110. its a great exsperience for a kid and his dad to work on his bike together, plus in the long run your bike will hold more value(110's are in way more demand than the 4 stroke 125's), also, the parts support for these bikes are rediculous. a 110 can be made into a much, much better and more friendly bike than the 125 anyways. with the mmoney you got from the drz, you could put in a bore kit, suspension, exhaust, brakes, and whatnot. the suspension on these bikes are 100 times better than the 125s if done right, and you could start him off on the semi automatic clutch, and then convert to manual for a mere 150 dollars. in my opinion, the 110 is the best starting bike a kid can have, plus if anything breaks, its soooo cheap to fix and you can find parts everywhere.

good luck and sorry about veering off topic 👍

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Cheers kxfreak for your reply.

I have managed to get the 110 running sweat now. The guy who sold it to me did say it had been idle for a while , so I thought I would strip the carb down and clean the jets. Seems to have done the trick. I also adjusted tappets , checked plug and cleaned air filter.

Here in the Uk parts for the 110 are not as widely available as in the States and therefore you have to spend more of a premium on the trick bits ( Kawasaki also have stopped selling the klx 110 in the Uk for 2 years) .

Good idea though. I will keep the drz 125 myself for a while and have a run around with my lad and see what develops.

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