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trying to start out on the right foot!

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I recently started doing the free mods to my 06 klx250h6f. I removed the airbox cover and then noticed it was the california model even though it was purchased in colorodo. After realizing that i removed the kcr air suction system by reviewing the mod specs on this site i successfully completed those two tasks. Now i seem to have a better time breathing at altitude and even more high end power but here in arkansas it runs too lean i think. My next moves will be to Install a dynojet kit for the 06klx300r, a stock header for the klx300r, an hmf powercore 4 with qiet core insert for the klx300r. Then ill complete the crankcase breather mod and replace my foam air filter with a highflow k&n filter. I think im doing this in the right order but im not quite sure. I also am not sure all the klx300r parts will fit my klx250h6f. If anyone has any advice plz let me know. Also is it bad to ride my bike with the kcr removed and the snorkel removed without doing any other mods yet? Plz respond. This is my first kawi and i like it alot. I dont want to burn it up or anything. Ive noticed my header heats up alot faster now that ive done those mods and i was just worried. thanx, j-nuff

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I would say it depends on how long between each of the mods and how much you plan to ride between each.

Running very lean is bad as too much heat really damages engine internals, especially cylinder/ring. Too rich has its own issues but doubt you are there. The dynojet kit should be on your "do quickly" list as it will let you ride with correct fuel mixture and thus stay in proper temp ranges (hopefully) but be aware that you will likely have to make some adjustments to the needle/jet setup when you change the exhaust.

You may also want to do some research on the K&N filter. I considered one last year but opted to stay with a stock unit after some digging. I got an impression that the K&N was fine for mostly dual sported or woods/hard dirt trails but did not do as well in high dust and sand areas. NO science to back that up, just a few replies to threads by people who ride a lot more than I do and thus change stuff more often.

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If you have not gotten the header already I would bypass the 300 header and go with a full sys from HMF it will be bigger in diameter than the 300 exhaust.

For off road I would stick with the foam filter. Also make sure that you do not have any loose spokes and check to make sure that the steering head bearings are tight. And if you really want to get crazy you can take the rear shock linkage apart and give that a good lubing along with the wheel bearings.

The jet kit will make a huge difference! Also if you want some more low end grunt you can change out the front sprocket to a 13t.

By doing all of this stuff you can set a base line for all of the maint for the bike! Also change the oil! :-)

Have fun and welcome Dennis

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thanks dennis, i will be ordering the 13t sprocket soon. I looked at a full system from fourstrokeworks. It looks nice and the db is under 96 supposedly. I still need to b able to ride through town too ya know?

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i have installed the 13t sprocket and done all the free mods now except the crankcase hose breather mod. i have the dynojet kit for the 300r and im gonna put it in my 250, then ill do the breather mod. ive already noticed alot of power. this is the question. when i use the provided bit to drill my slide hole for the jet needle. do i only drill the vertical one or both? the kouba screw mod seems pretty straight forward but i dont wanna f@#k up my carb ya know?

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Just drill the vertical hole. You may also have to open up the hole that the needle goes through as for the last few years, DynoJet has been sending out needles for the KLX, that are a bit too large in diameter to fit through the hole.

Ride on

Brewster

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so use the same bit and just drill all the way down through everything the needle goes through?

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The vertical hole that DynoJet wants you to drill out is not the needle hole.

Increase the diameter of the needle hole only if the needle won't slide through it. DynoJet won't admit that their needle is to large.

Ride on

Brewster

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The vertical hole that DynoJet wants you to drill out is not the needle hole.

Increase the diameter of the needle hole only if the needle won't slide through it. DynoJet won't admit that their needle is to large.

Ride on

Brewster

In case Brewsters message wasn't clear enough... Don't use the bit in the kit on the needle passage!! As he said, if the needle won't pass through the channel (without the clips on top) you will need to modify either the needle diameter (sand it down) or the guide channel (with a drill). Only enough to let the needle move smoothly through it, not to where it is sloppy and rocking back/forth.

BTW.... Which exhaust did you go with?

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