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Front fork tools

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What tools do I need to take out the front fork springs the manual says I need a special tool by suzuki I'm not sure if I need this or not. This is obviously the first time I've done this. Also what fork oil do you guys recommend replacing with the old suff I got Eibach straight rate springs (883) and not sure what oil to put back in it (I weigh 250lbs and like to be aggressive offroad and also use it as a daily driver), also how much do I put in there is two recommendations for levels which one do I pick? Thanks for any advice!:excuseme:

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You don't need any tool to take out the springs, just a wrench to get the fork-cap off, then just pull out the plastic spacer and spring.

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You only need the 'tool' if you are going to lower the fork height. Be sure to loosen the top triple clamp before you try to loosen the fork caps.

Do a search for lowered DR here, there is a thread with good pics that shows the forks dissambled, and how to make the 'tool' for a few bucks.

This is the thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=435255&highlight=lowering

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So I only need the tool if I'm lowering it (which I'm not) well that was easy, anybody have any recomendations on fork oil weight I got 15w let me know what you guys did.

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I used 10wt when I put Jesse's springs in (I weigh 220) so 15wt may be perfect for you. If not, it is easy to drain out the oil and change to a lighter weight oil.

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How do I get the dampening rod out I know I need to loosen the 8mm bolt on the bottom but in the manual it says I need the special tool is this to hold the dmpener while I loosen the bolt on the bottom?

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Ben -

Why do you want to remove the damper rod?

And, yes, the special tool is to keep the damper rod from rotating while you rotate the 8 mm allen screw at the bottom.

Rick

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Ben -

Why do you want to remove the damper rod?

And, yes, the special tool is to keep the damper rod from rotating while you rotate the 8 mm allen screw at the bottom.

Rick

I'm putting emulators in. Speaking of emulators is there a reason to adjust the emulators right off the bat? (as you can tell I'm new at suspension work)

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I'm putting emulators in. Speaking of emulators is there a reason to adjust the emulators right off the bat? (as you can tell I'm new at suspension work)

I'd LOVE it if you documented this. I'm gonna do it this winter.

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Ben -

> I'm putting emulators in...

Aha. Then, yes, you will need a damper rod tool. You can make your own

from a 3/4" x 1-1/2" - 10 tpi bolt from your friendly local Ace Hardware store. The bolt head is 28.3 mm across the flats and fits the 30 mm hex

opening in the top of the damper rod well enough. It is cheap and works well.

You should rotate the nut two turns from contact with the spring for initial setup on the emulators or whatever Race Tech is saying now if that instruction has changed.

Rick

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Ben,

If it's unhandy to run to the store, you might try shoving a broom handle against the damper rod. It worked for us.

Sarah

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Sarah -

Tough to beat the price of the "broom tool" :-).

Did you write up your trip? If so, please tell me where. Thanks.

Rick

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Rick,

No ride report yet. We did finally get the pictures downloaded from 3 cameras and we're working on getting them in order. We'll get it....eventually

I think part of it is that we're grieving the trip being over and to sit down and write about it makes it even more of the past. At least I think that's how it is for me. That and the fact that we're still run ragged trying to catch up with work, family and so forth after being gone so long.

Sarah

p.s. Thanks for asking about the trip and sorry to squall on your shoulder.

p.s.s. It'd knock a chunk out of our day to make a trip to town for the "special tool" so since the broomhandle worked for us I feel like I need to pass it along.

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Hi Sarah -

I understand. Life and work go on whether we are home or not. Tough to catch up. Looking forward to seeing photos and reading about your trip. Thank you.

Ben -

Didn't mean to hijack your thread.

Please keep us posted on the emulators.

Rick

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Ben,

If it's unhandy to run to the store, you might try shoving a broom handle against the damper rod. It worked for us.

Sarah

And some have reported using an air driven impact gun and not needing the tool to hold the damper rod.

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Hey guys um ya broom handle doesn't work too well, aparently the bolts are locktighted in or some type of thread locker. So what I did was take it to work to use an impact gun to loosen the bolt (aparently you don't need the special tool if you have an impact gun) Anyways I did that and broke the bolt loose, but then the rod started turning inside the the fork so I made up "the tool with some 1" black pipe NPT and put the corresponding end cap on the end of it and was able to turn it out by hand (it's handy to work in a machine shop) Then the drilling of the rod wasn't to bad (I used the shop mill) it's a lot easier if you can drill a pilot hole on the rod before drilling the 5/16" hole.:excuseme:

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Glad you got it. Another suggestion I'v read is to loosen the bolts from the bottom before you unscrew the caps at the top.

Sarah

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i lowered my forks about 1 yr ago. i seem to recall a torque spec and thread lock spec to install the rod screw. with the suzuki fasteners i would follow the spec, not sure how well the broom stick method would work to torque the screws. i used the factory tool, about $30, very easy for shade tree types.

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Ya its gonna be a trick tightening it since I'm putting emulators in I wont be able to hold the rod, I guess I can put the emulator in after I tighten the rod.

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Ben -

> Ya its gonna be a trick tightening it since I'm putting emulators in I wont

> be able to hold the rod

The tool prevents the damper rod from rotating while you tighten the allen screw at the bottom of the fork.

> I guess I can put the emulator in after I tighten the rod.

Yes. Emulator, springs, spacer, washers, and fork cap are installed after damper rod is secured and fork oil is added to proper height.

Rick

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