What type o oil do you guy`s find the best for your motor`s!
I'm a new WR owner (5 months) and a quite new TT member but already learned a lot from this site and other members so keep on visiting TTalk.
Unfortunately, you may be disappointed by the number of answer you will receive... As you will discover by using the search engine of this website, this subject as been discussed a lot. There is a lot of suggestions already available so read them and come back if any other questions arise or if you want to post observations from your own experience .
I've been happy to talk to you
Amsoil 10w40 full synthetic motorcyle specific
Spectro 4. Not the full synthetic type. The blend.
Search and you will find lots of info on what not to do such as additives or the energy saving lubricants. They often ruin the clutch plates.
Amsoil synthetic 10W40 motorcycle specific (wet clutch compatible), and for cold springs and falls; Amsoil's synthetic 0W40 motorcycle specific oil.
Go to the KTM forum and go to page 6 or 7 and look for " Oil-WHAT'S BEST? "
I am serious about my oil and there is lots of info in that thread. Someone tried to prove me wrong but they backed me up with their information they provided. I also gave extensive info on types of synthetics , they are not all created equal and the evils of friction modifiers in automotive oils. Stick with a good Name Brand ( like MAXIMA ) 100% Motorcycle SYNTHETIC OIL. Yamahas need all the help they can get as they don't hold much to begin with and rev so high.
We have beat this thing to death, Even if everyone agreed on an oil designated strictly for motorcycles we could run another 5 page thread on the issue. You will never run out of opinions on this subject, check the threads Dwight put in.
Thanks for the tip dwight,i have been using mobil 1 extra 4t since i got the bike(01 wr426),change the oil every 300mls,seems ok!,just thought i would ask what other guys thought about oil`s(read the ktm thread)wow!,thank you all for your replies,regards,captain_S.
Motul 300V competition. I have 426 on 10000 km (6200miles) without noticeable engine wear. What can I say more ...
Here is some more info ( as if I haven't said enough ) about car oil. I know some folks claim they run auto oils without problems and some say it is OK to run MOBIL 1 auto oil although MOBIL Oil Co. says don't but to run the Motorcycle specific oil. I think if you get in a bind and need to pick up some oil locally, you can get by with Chevron DELO 15w40 , or Shell Rotella 15w40 or the 5w40 synthetic ( PAOs ). Diesel heavy duty oil doesn't have friction modifiers but I don't know how they would do in the long run.
Here is the info I got from Dick Leichen of MAXIMA oils when asked about car oils.
Several years ago the EPA , began to mandate gasoline formulation changes and inthe process we lost 3% of the gasoline's performance and milage. This prompted changes in the automotive oils. During the same time period the EPA also forced the Automotive OEM's , to warrentee all clean air systems on their cars of at least 100,000 miles.
Thes 2 EPA mandates began to impact the oil industry in ways that were not good for motorcycles and especially motocycles with wet clutches. To offset the 3% reduction in gas milage and performance, friction modifiers wer added to the oil and viscocities were lowered to 5w30 and this year to the 0W20 grades. This will help improve the gas milage , time will tell if it will be good for long term engine life.
A third change to the oil was to lower from 3,000 P.P.M., (parts per million), to 2,000 ppm. the content of zinc and phosphorus in the oil to try and increase the life span of the catalytic converters. Over long periods of time these metallic compounds can poison the catalytic converters used on today's automobiles and shorten their life span. The OEM's want to protect themselves from having to warrantee and replace too many converters.
What does Zinc and Phosphorus in the oil do anyway ? They are oil additives the are called anti-wear and EP,( extreme pressure ), additives. Is it OK to have less Zinc and Phosphous in your oil ? NO! These additives are what keeps your moving metal parts from rubbing on other metal surfaces causing premature engine wear. Auto engines can live OK on 2,000ppm of Zinc and phosphous, but 3,000ppm would be better. Small motorcycle engines have a lot less oil reserves, higher operating temperatures , smaller bearing surfaces, and the zinc and phosphorus additives act like a safety net to critical small engine parts like cam lobes, rocker arms and cam lifters.
All the newer auto oils have the reduced levels of zinc and phosphorus, and they have the additional FRICTION MODIFIERS included in their formulas. These changes made at the request of the EPA, are not good news for your motorcycle engine.
I recomend ou use only " Motorcycle Specific" engine oils that have the higher concentrations of anti-wear and EP additives. Motorcycle Specific oils will not have the friction modifiers that will harm your clutch. Motorcycle Specific oils will cost a bit more up front, but in the long urn your motorcycle engine will last longer and run better.
I use Maxima oils ( EXTRA and ULTRA ) . All Maxima oils are motorcycle specific and have the highest rating ( MA ), under the new Motorcycle Manufactures JASO rating system.
I hope this sheds a little more light on the complex difference between automobile oils and Motorcycle oils.
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