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Braking down steep hills.


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This Saturday I rode with a few of my friends and we went up this hill that had no top...so we turned around and went back down. Well on the way down my friend in front had no problem controlling his speed, but I couldn't stop:ride: . I came FLYING down the hill past my friend with only inches between the handlebars and nearly ate it ( I did make it alright, but if there was a hill side it would have been bye bye bike. ) So how do you control you speed down hills? I put it in first, but it slid...grabbed the clutch...it slid....used equal amount of front and back but still gained speed. How do you guys do it:excuseme: And if it helps im running a s12 rear and the terrain was grassy and loose fine dirt.

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Use the engine braking with a comb. of frt. and rear brakes. You just NEED to know where that sweet spot is on your bikes brakes. If the hill is very steep you must lean way back over the rear fender. Going down hill just like up hill it takes PRACTICE.

Also, do not be scared of letting the back come around if you need to stop just make sure you stop with both tires level and make sure you fall toward the hill the high end to rest.

Good luck:thumbsup:

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Try pumping the brakes on off on off etc. Like ABS system if that doesn't work then sliding the back around to stop and start over, you may have over wellmed(?) the brakes (heat) if so you have boiled the brakes

bleed the brakes ever 6 months or so.

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Keep your weight WAY back on the steep, also it sounds like the traction available was sketchy, at best. I find that a firm squeeze on the bike w/legs helps hold you there once braking starts to work.

Plan/look ahead, try to keep speed from building by braking hard when you can, so you don't need to scrub speed when it's too late-into a tight spot/corner, slower rider, drop-off, etc.

It sounds like you have pretty good nerves under pressure! Try using 101% of your front stopping power before letting off--hard front brake on most DH will kill alot of speed; depends on trail/tire condition. A risky technique- yes - but much better to loose a little control when you can get it back, than loosing all control so you and the bike hammer another, or going off the deep end!

:excuseme:

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Theres what everyone calls a momentum breaker at my local track, it is steep enough that you can't walk down it. I always go down it in second gear on my two stroke, and I use all of my front and rear breaks to the point that my front brake lever is fully pulled in and I can't stay slow going down it ( I don't have engine breaking) I have come to the conclusion that my brakes aren't that good, or that they are good and this hill just pushes them past there limit? it does suck though because the bottom is a shap right turn right beside a lake :excuseme:

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Max brakes, especially front, weight back. Let off the front before you hit any rocks etc so the tire will roll it. I find best breaking effectiveness to be just before a skid so let off if you lock it up.

one thing that works with 2T or 4T bikes is leave the clutch out so you can use engine braking and pay attention to the engine sounds - if it dies you're using too much of the back brakes. I sometimes don't mind rolling down hills with the engine dead either, but sometimes I find the clutch pulled in while modulating both the front brake & throttle.

Locking up the rear momentarily is no big deal, & sometimes can be effective.

It just takes practice. & good tires.

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Down-shift by rev-matching and use both brakes. If you don't rev-match while down-shifting you might let the clutch out too fast and end up flipping over the bars if the hill is steep enough. Same with the brakes, a lot of people like to only use their front brake but if the hill is steep you might grab the front brake too hard and also flip over the bars. Just practice somewhere safe and you will get the hang of it it no time.

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Hey guys, thanks for all the help and advice, ill be sure to try it out (on a different hill)

By different, I hope you mean steeper! ?

Just remain calm and react to your surroundings - & don't panic. It doesn't really seem to matter the type of surface, whether it's mud, gravel, solid rock, river rock, loose shale (ok, boulders are an exception), it's possible to maintain control & slow down. I still get the shot of adrenaline every time I hit something steeper than before - it's a blast!

The best piece of advice I can offer is start it slow & keep it as slow as possible At The Start. That way you'll recognize how the terrain reacts as you develop your own technique & confidence. Maintain control, & ride within your ability or slightly above it.

:excuseme:

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When I first learned how to go down really steep stuff someone told me to reach down and give the idle screw a half turn up.

It works great to turn the idle up just a bit. Also shift up a gear high, like second instead of first. First is instant stalled motor. This combined with the idle will keep the rear wheel from locking up, once your rear locks you might as well have a slick tire on the rim. Keep the motor running.

And ride that bike down the hill don't slide it. Momentum is your friend. Going faster is usually easier than slip sliding around.

Find a hill that is hard and ride it six or seven times in a row and you will gain the skill and confidence that is needed to attack downhills.

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you must've locked the rear to kill the engine. pull in the clutch & pop it if you'd like it to restart.

you don't need a motor to ride downhill, a motorcycle can be ridden down hill just like a mountain bike. You could drag the back tire down in a skid the whole way if you wanted.

are you sure you didn't lock up the front? That'll tip you over before long. If you start to tip from a skidding front just let off a bit & you'll straighten out then re-apply the front brake.

The dirtwise video (Shane Watts) recommends practicing both wheel lockups. It's a great idea IMO - I used to take my street bikes on dirt roads just to practice this & the recovery, while not needed that often, has saved me several times on both the dirt & the street.

Practicing things like this in a "controlled" environment is very important. I've always pushed the limits in areas that were "safe" not only because it's fun, but it gives you an advantage when you don't have time to think.

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OK I dont know what a most of these people are thinking about when saying engine braking and rear brake. Thats IMPOSSIBLE... and ineffective...heres why:

#1 engine braking isnt effective on a hill thats as steep as your talking about..

#2 You CANT brake with the rear without having the clutch pulled... Obiviously you can at speed, but if you are trying to stop..you will stall the engine...

What you are supposed to do... stay back on the bike, pull in the clutch and use both the front and rear brake. The front will do most of your stopping (practically all of it.) Things to remember:

#1. Dont lock up the front brake or you will take a dirt nap.

#2. The rear brake is used for steering.. you can keep it locked up pretty good without much consequence.. with it locked up you can use it to steer around trees and through ruts.

#3. Look ahead because you cant come to a complete stop you just have to have your next move planned ahead of time andddddd be confident.

edit: thought of one last thing... go easy on the brakes if you are approaching a rut or rock or something that may make you lose the front end/wash out.

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OK I dont know what a most of these people are thinking about when saying engine braking and rear brake. Thats IMPOSSIBLE... and ineffective...heres why:

#1 engine braking isnt effective on a hill thats as steep as your talking about..

#2 You CANT brake with the rear without having the clutch pulled... Obiviously you can at speed, but if you are trying to stop..you will stall the engine...

I can brake & engine brake @ the same time, it's like lugging the engine on the flat - so long as the wheel is turning the engine will run (remember, your brakes are modular, or analog, they're not just on or off). You need to listen to the engine because it will die if you lock it up for more than a second. I agree with most of your post though; for me, engine braking is mostly used before the brakes.

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