odometer removal

Has anyone removed their odometer? What did you use as a spacer to replace the odometer hub on the front wheel?

i used the flatland racing spacer. If i had to do it all over again, I would buy the left side spacer and seal from Yamaha. The YZ spacer won't work (I tried it). The flatland racing piece is beautifully sculpted and reuses the stock seal, but it's almost as heavy as the stock piece :) Disappointing.


I looked on HSML and it looks like the factory YZ spacer & seal is a direct replacement for the WR ODO drive - what am I missing?


I just orderd the YZ spacer and seal, I should have it on Monday. I will let you know how it works.

The YZ spacer and dust seal worked just fine on my '00 WR.

I have done the same thing with my 98 WR. YZ stuff fits great.


Old guy and GPS geek

That's weird. I couldn't get the YZ right side spacer to fit. Actually, the problem is was the part wasn't flanged at the hub end, therefore I didn't think the seal was going to hold up well ( iride in water/mud frequently). I wonder if I just didn't give it a chance

YZ spacer and seal worked for me with no problems. It looks a lot cleaner, too.

Thanks Guys, One more question.

After you remove the odometer hub, There is still a peice of the odometer pressed into the wheel hub with a seal and bearing. Does that all come out? Does the bearing stay and the Hub peice come out?

I've removed the odo from my (ex)99WR but left the hub in place and just pluged up the cable side of it. cost= $0

you can use rubber vacuum cap or just an old piece of odo cable.


Originally posted by mike68:

Thanks Guys, One more question.

After you remove the odometer hub, There is still a peice of the odometer pressed into the wheel hub with a seal and bearing. Does that all come out? Does the bearing stay and the Hub peice come out?

I have the same question. Is there any easy way to get that last piece out? Thanks.

Thin screw driver worked for me.

FYI Flatland stuff is great!


JJ from WA - 99 WR; WR timed, EKN Needle, Scotts stabalizer, Scotts triple clamps, Pro-Tapers, Michelin S-12's, Terry Cable hot start, MSR Raptor clutch lever, Moose skid plate, Works frame guards, Acerbis Pro Rally guards, Renthal MD-soft grips, Factory Effex graphics, YZ IMS seat base, YZ Factory Effex seat foam and gripper seat cover, YZ rear fender

Here's the deal for a 2000 WR:

The part number for the WR hub is 5BF-25111-01-00, while the part number for the YZ hub is 4SS-25111-00-00. This leads me to believe that the "tabs" that operate the odometer hub are integral to the hub and cannot be removed.

The part number for the YZ spacer is 5DH-25117-00-00 and the oil seal is 93102-26468-00. These parts fit the WR hub without a problem, but you can not do anything about the tabs on the hub. The tabs do not interfere with the seal or spacer. The installation is clean, and I have not experienced any problems what-so-ever.

I'm not sure about other model years, just the '00. Hope this helps.

On my 99 WR I just used the same spacer as on the brake side and the same bearing seal. The fit was perfect and has been used this way since FEB 99. I ground off the tabs for the odo drive as the odo will never be used on my bike as I use a computer Speedometer.


Thanks clark. that was exactly what I was looking for.

I just got rid of the odo on my 2001 WR. I ordered the YZ spacer and dust seal. Before I put it on I called the dealership to confirm it was the right part. There wasn't a flange on it like on the left side. There is a very slight flange on one side and it fit right in the grove of the dust seal. This made a very good seal between the spacer and dust seal. The other end of the spacer butted up against the flange on the axel. In my opinion this was a little better seal than the odo. made w/the hub. They two parts were $29.00 a little expensive for two simple parts.

I just removed my ODO. I plan to order the YZ spacer but in the mean time I cut the cable removed the screw cap on the wheel side and put it back on. Then I got a plastic furnature vinyl leg tip 13mm from the hardware store and tapped it on over the screw cap with a rubber mallot. It makes a tight seal around the cap for a temporary fix. I got white so it matches the fork guards. Another inexpensive option is to buy a metric acorn nut to replace the cable screw cap. The only problem is finding it in the right size. You may have to shop around a little. Remember I am only offering these as very temporary solutions. :)

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