The Tator's '94 Husky 610 Overhaul/Rebuild *pics*

10/17/08 UPDATE! I posted more photos on page 2. Not all pictures are on page 1. I will constantly be adding more photos as I go along.

Many of you have heard of my starting/idle problems with the 610. Carburetion has been ruled-out time and time again. I sensed something else was going on. The engine has never wanted to idle down, sounded like there was a load on it even in neutral. Since I had metal filings in my oil when I first got it, I have now decided to overhaul it and make everything ship-shape. It turns out that I was correct- there is some valve damage that I will talk about later.

I don't like to take apart dirty engines and get the dirt inside 'em


A little gross.


My cleaning station:


A little better now



Clutch removal:


after removing springs


bottom of pressure plate


everything looked decent as far as wear


after removing plates


basket after removing hub


Area after removing basket.


Removing the starter gear with snap ring pliers


More to come. I'm uploading pictures of the case splitting, etc...

I'll try to ease off on the photo-over-obsession. The next batch of info/photos will be a little more interesting.

Comments and suggestions are appreciated. I'm already ordering parts from George so before I know it, I'll be just waiting on new parts (after a little more cleaning.

More info:

Removed rocker cover:


removed timing chain and cam


Removed head and cylinder to find an ATHENA piston with dings in the valve reliefs (weren't deep enough).


The exhaust valves were the ones that suffered but though they didn't seat properly or seal well, they didn't snap. I'm one lucky B-Tard that I didn't drop a valve and grenade the motor. My disassembly has been justified! I knew something wasn't right in this motor!



Though the damage is subtle, it's very easy to see when you have your hands on the unit. I can slide a piece of paper under those suckers.

Jug looked good. Some nikasil and it should be ready to go. An OEM piston will be pricey but George agrees with me that it's the way to go. Can't go wrong by listening to him.


I can't add more stuff tonight but I should return to TT tomorrow to add case splitting pictures.

good job with the inspection, there was another fellow on here, KCUF in aus that had something simular happen with his older 610 build, a "close" matched piston from JP pistons ended up ramming his exhaust valves becuase of lack of pockets or something, good luck with that, im hoping i dont have something similar happen with an FBF piston. dont forget to check your valve springs while you are at it....or your build may be for nothing, oh yea were there any actual gaskets with that motor or just sealant slop? i had a jerk do that to a 410 motor i had, it went blammo because of weak valve springs allowing float

Thanks for the support.

I laughed when I saw the piston because it's almost identical to the one KCUF used that ended up snapping his valve for the same reason; not enough space in the relief pockets in the deck. I'm glad I checked it. As for the silicone, that was only on the rocker cover. Though I didn't show gaskets, head and base gaskets are oem. same for the main case gasket. ALL will be replaced :D

The head is getting the works from George Erl at Up-tite husky in California. He's the master and we talked about the job he will do on it. He has very precise equipment that he will test springs with as well as machine the guides seats, etc... New stainless valves all around... He'll do anything and everything the head needs.

No cost will be spared. I don't want to be cheap. It'll lead to failure in teh long run.

Good on you. Thanks for the posts / pix, informative. :D

yep kudos on the full head job kcuf skipped that all together i believe lol

Nice! Always wondered what some of those areas looked like!

Are you going with the uptite cam or the factory one?

Thanks. Yeah, I think it's just gross to be in there and not do the head. I'm not a math teacher or anything but skipping the head just doesn't add up in my brain.


ryboj, I'm sticking with my stock cam. The lobes are immaculate and show little to no wear, thanks to those beautiful roller rockers. I'll double check with George to make sure it's okay though. I'll also inspect it very carefully when I clean it. I am replacing the bushings for the rockers as well as the roller bearings on 'em. Cam bearings are being replaced by me as well. I will send the tappets to George for resurfacing. Pump propeller will get a new seal on the cam.

Nice. Just checking. I know the Uptite cam punches some serious power.... but it's quite possible you're content with the current power and just want to keep it simple and perfect....stock like.

Anyhow, glad to see someone doing it right as others have mentioned... :D

Great thread good on you

this is amazing. more pics, please!!! Great job!!!

Thank you for the compliments!

I'm glad that you and others are enjoying this. It's certainly been fun for me. Unfortunately, I didn't do more work today because some parts came in for another project and I had to install some seals in a gear case/re-assemble blah blah. I should be back on the 610 tomorrow and taking pictures like crazy!

I really appreciate all the support :D


I am sure u r planning it but,,,B sure to install a new cam chain in your rebuild.

Thank you for pointing that out! Funny you should mention that.. I installed a chain, hoping to stop the engine noise because the old one had 9 clicks on the tensioner. The new chain has 4 hours on it since the install (that silicone was mine... I don't want to talk about it) and the chain has already stretched enough to give me 11 clicks!!! I don't understand it. I'm going to check the sprockets for wear but this kind of wear in such a brief time period is inexcusable IMO.

I'll ask George what he thinks. I'll hesitate to buy another chain of the same brand if I think the same thing is going to happen again.

There are chain and then there are CHAINS,make sure its not industrial chain

Thanks. I just assumed George would send me the right quality/type. I don't blame the wear/failure on him by any means though.


Nice job! On pistons.... OEM is best, but there is a big difference between a correct application aftermarket piston and a close match one. A friend did a big bore on a customer's WXC350 and used a XR400 piston, but he was a good enough engine builder and machinist to do the correct valve pockets.

On the cam chain.... Is it possible that it's the worn sprockets that sped up the chain wear on the second chain? You wouldn't put a new drive chain on old sprockets.


Norman, I suspected the sprockets. I'll just have to see. George said they're usually good for a few chains before needing replacement. I haven't talked to him since I found the wear. It's on my list of questions. Knowing my luck, I'll need sprockets too. If I do, I'll get 'em. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Edit: More pictures are up- in my next post down the page:


Norman, I suspected the sprockets. I'll just have to see. George said they're usually good for a few chains before needing replacement. I haven't talked to him since I found the wear. It's on my list of questions. Knowing my luck, I'll need sprockets too. If I do, I'll get 'em. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

I'm going to be uploading the case-splitting portion of my photos tonight. With luck, my computer will not crash and I'll be able to put them on here tonight.

stay tuned



I talked to Fran today and he said the sprockets don't wear that much, but if you don't replace the guides the chain will slap too much and stretch. Fran also said he tried to call you back, but phone number didn't work. He was concerned that you might think that he forgot about you.


Thank you for the update, Norman. I didn't know that about the guides. Mine look pretty nice but after hearing that, I'll talk to George about getting new ones.

That was nice of Fran. Thanks for passing the message along. I'll give him a ring. And yes- my phone number is still working :D Idk what happened.

And now: The next dose of pictures, taken with my new 10.2 Megapixel camera

My new puller for the drive gear was a little small, so I heated and bent it (didn't have my oxy/acetylene cutting torch handy :worthy:


Using the puller:


My new toy "micro-adjuster" Not really for the bike engine per-se but who knows? I might get angry and have to break something nearby.


Cleaning chains in a parts washer is a real treat


The gasket looks like it's aftermarket. Part of it was in the way of the jet that squirts oil onto the con.rod bearing


The bearings in the RH case looked good. All will be replaced.


another shot


LH case before removing tranny (few to no filings were found in the bottom of the cases


another angle


LH case with tranny removed (I'll have a video in my next post- keep an eye out for it)


Shots of the tranny and shift mechanism from different angles:






I'll take some photos when I take this assembly apart. At the moment, my goal is to get my parts ordered. After that, I can spend more time fondling my motor.

A shot of the LH case


**I'll add video clips once I get them uploaded. It may be tonight. I'll try and just see if my computer will resist crashing**

Enjoy. Also, please lmk if you want a photo of something specific. I don't mind taking some more.

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