Chain and sprockets

How do i change my chain and sprockets? what tools do I need?

10mm combonation wrench

12mm combonation wrench

14mm combonation wrench

6mm allen wrench

1 1/8 combonation wrench (not sure what it is in mm) or large cresent wrench

Chain Breaker Tool

This is the list of tools you'll need, assuming it's an 03 cr125r.

I have to make a run down the street, but when I come back if no one has posted the proceedure, I will do so.

Thanks monty where can i find these tools?

whats a chain breaker tool? I always used a hammer & flat head screwdriver to take my master link clip(s) off...

100_4595.jpg

yes i know the clips are backwards in that shot I flipped them around the right way already

ummmm, what's up with ur chain?

ummmm, what's up with ur chain?

I ride Supermoto on my CR500 most of the time but I just threw the dirt rims/tires on the bike & dont have the cash for another chain right now, so i cut a few links from my old chain and got another master link....:D

someone please give me a lil help?? :D

someone please give me a lil help?? :D

take off the clip on your master link of your chain, the picture I posted has two master links, a normal chain has only one. after you take the clip off you can seperate the master link which will then allow you to make the chain not connected

take the chain off your bike.

to change the front sprocket put it in gear and take off the nut in the center of the sprocket. when you put the new one on its not a bad idea to use some BLUE loctite. DO NOT USE RED LOCTITE YOULL NEVER GET IT OFF AGAIN.

for the rear sprocket you gotta take the rim off, loosen the nut/bolt running through it, then pull the long bolt out from the rim, now using allen keys most likely take off the rear sprocket, put on the new rear sprocket, do everything in reverse order and now you have new chains and sprockets. dont forget to ajust your new chain and then remember new chains stretch so you will have to ajust the chain again rather soon:worthy:

does anyone make a socket set type allen wrench??

does anyone make a socket set type allen wrench??

yeah they make them, but if you have regular allen keys that will work fine usually...

Mx rider, you have a private message.

monty, Im gunna call ya when my sprockets get here so I can kinda comprehend what your tellin me, But thanx for replying so quick

I would recommend you buy a service manual. Most of them give you a nice step by step removal and installation. They are also nice as they list the required torque amounts (do you have a torque wrench?) for each application and if you should use loctite.

My rmz book doesn't always list the size tool you need. I had to search it here for the axle nut size. I use it all the time.

does anyone make a socket set type allen wrench??

yes, your local auto parts store should have them for like $10 or so. I actually use them more than I use my regular allen keys. They don't strip the bolt head as easy either. As far as red loctite, I've used it many times before, then again I use air ratchets about 60% of the time, but red loctite requires heat to get them out. Most manuals say to use their grade of loctite (most likely equivilant to red loctite). Blue is ok to use, but I've had two sprocket bolts come out before and it ruined my chain, sprockets, hub, chain guard, and chain guide. I usually use red loctite now. No problems here. You'll find that some of your factory head bolts are also red loctited in. Any extreme vibration area usually receives red loctite from the factory.

If you buy a precut chain, you do not need a chain breaker tool, but most chains come at 120 links, so if that's your's you'll probably have to cut it. You can use the chain breaker tool (makes life a lot easier) or you can grind the pins out and pop the side of the link off. Either way works, but for the $20 so I spent on my chain breaker it's worth it.

CTATV hit most of the main points...

Once the wheel is off, loosen the nut on the backside of the sprocket. Loosen the nut, not the bolt. Use the allen key only to hold the bolt still, this reduces the chance of stripping the bolt head. After you get all the bolts out, place your sprocket on the hub, loctite a few threads in the middle of the sprocket bolts with your loctite color of choice, and put the sprocket bolts in. Now put the nuts on them and snug them up. If you have a torque wrench, tighten them down the spec in a star pattern and reinstall your rear wheel.

For your front sprocket, first take your chain guard off. I'm guessing you have some sort of a retaining clip on it. Most are C clips or snap rings. If it's a snap ring, buy yourself a pair of snap ring pliers (harbor freight has them for $4) and there you go. They also make life a lot easier. If it's a C clip, I personally take needle nose pliers, spread them apart so each end is on the C ends of the clip and tap it up. Be advised, if you have a C clip tap it up enough so you can grab the other side. If it pops the whole way off, you may never find it because it will be in low orbit somewhere. Then you swap front sprockets and replace the retaining clip and chain guard.

Now you're ready for the chain. Place one end of the chain on the rear sprocket and start running it through the front sprocket and rollers, then through the guide. Now you can set your chain adjusters. If you have a 120 link chain, this is when you can see how many links you need to cut out, if it's precut, set your adjusters and put the master link in. For your master link, I take a pair of pliers and press the plate together. For some reason, It takes me a while to get the renthal master links to seat right. I don't know why. After that install your master link clip with the open end facing the rear sprocket.

Hope that helps.

thanks one2nine

I would recommend you buy a service manual. Most of them give you a nice step by step removal and installation. They are also nice as they list the required torque amounts (do you have a torque wrench?) for each application and if you should use loctite.

My rmz book doesn't always list the size tool you need. I had to search it here for the axle nut size. I use it all the time.

why would you search for a nut size on your bike? Isn't it just easier to see which socket fits the best on the nut by trial and error?

For my axle nut socket, I had one of the motion pro wrenches, but lost it. So... I went to lowes with my axle nut and just sized up a socket. Ended up being 27mm.

yah I'd say trail and error would be the best way to find sizes. I only really refer to my manual for torque specs and some other little stuff.

install your master link clip with the open end facing the rear sprocket.

This is the first time I have heard that the space in the clip goes towards the rear sprocket.

I just bought a RK Xring 120 link so I could re-gear my DR350 and even the instructions on the RK box specify that the opening in the clip should face the front sprocket (which actually makes no sense to me)

So, does anybody else have a preference as to which way the opening in the master clip should face and why?

I was going to swap the rear sprocket and chain tonight so it would be nice to know which way the clip works best

Thanks :worthy:

This is the first time I have heard that the space in the clip goes towards the rear sprocket.

I just bought a RK Xring 120 link so I could re-gear my DR350 and even the instructions on the RK box specify that the opening in the clip should face the front sprocket (which actually makes no sense to me)

So, does anybody else have a preference as to which way the opening in the master clip should face and why?

I was going to swap the rear sprocket and chain tonight so it would be nice to know which way the clip works best

Thanks :worthy:

The theory is that if you have the open part facing towards the front sprocket, something may get hooked on it and pop it off.

haha i have an easier way take it to ur shop like i do. keep ur hands from getting greasy haha

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