My new SSR

[MXkid714]

I got my 110 DX3 yesterday! woohoo

i have a few Q's though, one

how the hell to you get the front # plate on? I cant figure it out, any help appreciated

And when i rode it around, it sputters a lot. I figures rich, so i leaned it out some and it seemed better, but it still spudderd a lot up top

And it seemed to do it in the dirt a lot more than on grass, so when it was bumpy it seem cut in and out more than when it was smooth

Could it be theirs some loose wires? Spark plug wire seemed to be on tight, so i dont think its that. Could it be a bad ignition? I dont really know a lot on bike electronics so any help is appreciated there too

And it has a 1d 3up tranny! I couldnt belive it, does that mean its a normal DX? im pretty confused now...

This thing pulls pretty good when its not spuddering so much, a quick turn of the wrist and the front came up nice n' easy

Thanks

Some pics for you guys

[Precision50]

I got my 110 DX3 yesterday! woohoo

i have a few Q's though, one

how the hell to you get the front # plate on? I cant figure it out, any help appreciated

And when i rode it around, it sputters a lot. I figures rich, so i leaned it out some and it seemed better, but it still spudderd a lot up top

And it seemed to do it in the dirt a lot more than on grass, so when it was bumpy it seem cut in and out more than when it was smooth

Could it be theirs some loose wires? Spark plug wire seemed to be on tight, so i dont think its that. Could it be a bad ignition? I dont really know a lot on bike electronics so any help is appreciated there too

And it has a 1d 3up tranny! I couldnt belive it, does that mean its a normal DX? im pretty confused now...

This thing pulls pretty good when its not spuddering so much, a quick turn of the wrist and the front came up nice n' easy

Thanks

Some pics for you guys

Bike looks good I like the white plastic....

Ok lets eliminate things that can cause the Issue

1. Check your ground wire clean (NO paint contact metal to metal)

2. Check and adjust the float level in the carb

3. Check the (spark plug cap to the coil wire) to make sure its making a good contact with the wire (the cap screws on and off easy)

Ok now:

whats the plate and front of the forks look like get me a front picture of both

Ok now:

read this through a couple of times and you can make sure that your carb is jetted correctly and you can fine tune it

go by this and you cant go wrong:

1) GET A PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can. and then kill the engine with the throttle wide open. Dont idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the white porcelain part. as a rule it should look like coffee and cream( TAN ) If its Dark brown or sooty black your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.

Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.

2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle After you have made your test run with the stock jetting. Install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher number than you removed. do your test run again, pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet keep doing this until you feel a noticable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to your pilot jet.

3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how its feels when you pull out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponcive untill you are past 1/4 throttle A perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repete this test until you get one that feels the best.

4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting (about 1800 rpms) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle. Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPMs reaches its peak. Peak rpms is when the engine runs its cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....

5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you dont have to replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the bikes jetting. Dont be afraid to move the clip up..LEANER or down..RICHER. You spend most of your time riding in this range.

Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top or bottom. then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...

When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches

[MXkid714]

Haha thanks for the great reply man, i'll get you all of those later today ok

your like the god of pitbikes haha

[MXkid714]

Woohoo, found out the problem, it was electrical

One of the wires were barley connected and we didnt check them before yesterday. So we pluged them together and guess what?

Its runs perfect!

this thing feels like it pulls like my 150f haha, im so happy

But the same day, i didnt go over every bolt and i went riding

and i lost one of the bolts to the front caliper!

When i came in for a break and tried to stop, all i heard was clicking and saw my caliper bouncing around

A quick look around the garge finds a bolt that fits and i accualy go over every bolt in detail this time and make sure everythings tight haha

I'll still be searching for that little bolt around the yard somwere... haha..

Heres some pics of the # plate, theres one bolt in the tripple clamp (on the top) and a hole on the bottom for a bolt but threres none their

And i have one more question, when just sitting in place idling, if i lean the bike over to the right, the engine makes a rattling sound. It only doest it when leaning to the right though. It sounds like it could be comming out of the left side (around the sproket maybe)

Do you know what it could be? Thanks

[Precision50]

Heres some pics of the # plate, theres one bolt in the tripple clamp (on the top) and a hole on the bottom for a bolt but threres none their

And i have one more question, when just sitting in place idling, if i lean the bike over to the right, the engine makes a rattling sound. It only doest it when leaning to the right though. It sounds like it could be comming out of the left side (around the sproket maybe)

Do you know what it could be? Thanks

1. Take the front bolt out of the front fender and slip the number plate (the long slot plastic) in between the bottom of the tripple clamp and the fender. re-install the bolt.

2. the plate should line up with the round allen head bolt thats in the top of the tripple clamp.

3. the top part of the plate tucks in under the clamp and is suppost to cover the top (Big Nut) that holds the steering stem. but almost everyone cuts that part off to get a cleaner look.

thats how its suppost to fit on a CRf50.

if it does not line up you will have to use the threaded hole on the bottom of the tripple clamps and the allen head bolt on the upper clamp

the noise if its idling with the kickstand down is vibrating through the frame to the skid plate.

[MXkid714]

thanks, i should be able to get that plate on tomarrow than

It makes the noise when im holding it up (no kickstand) and leaning it over the the right only

and it seems the noise speeds up and down with the engine rpms

but like i said only when the bike is leaned over to the right... wierd

[125pinger]

hella sick bike man! diggin the white!

[MXkid714]

so can anyone help me with that sound?

also anyone know how much fork oil it takes?

[mighty_mace]

as for the noise...........does it only do it in Neutral? If so get it to make the noise......then do the same thing with the clutch pulled in with the bike in gear.

My ssr used to make that noise sometimes, but only in N

[MXkid714]

Never thought of trying to do it in gear, ill try that and see what happens

[crf150f guy]

nice pitbike mxkid I wish I had one to fool around on.

[MXkid714]

nice pitbike mxkid I wish I had one to fool around on.

Yeah thanks they are insaley fun

and good to practice wheelies on

as for the noise...........does it only do it in Neutral? If so get it to make the noise......then do the same thing with the clutch pulled in with the bike in gear.

My ssr used to make that noise sometimes, but only in N

Ok, so i ran it today and it only makes the noise in N like you said. Is there something wrong? would it be fine to ride then?

[mighty_mace]

I think it may be somewhat the norm. I had an SSR and it did the same thing in Neutral sometimes. Never had any problems with it.

[MXkid714]

ok thanks guys i feel a little bit better about riding it now:)

[MXkid714]

Thread revial!

Ok, so as you all know, the levers on these are crap!

I snapped the brake lever on a low speed tip over and i was wondering what brake lever would fit. Like what kind of bike that has the same (or closest) to lever for my SSR. Gracias

[MXkid714]

And i dont really want to spend the money on some ASV's right now, regular levers will be just fine?

[MXkid714]

anyone? Id perfer to ride with a front brake?

[Precision50]

anyone? Id perfer to ride with a front brake?

SGR-Staggs Racing have the ASV knock offs (folding levers) they are a decent price and work good.

[MXkid714]

Can i get just levers? i dont nescerraly (sp?) want ASV's or a whole lever/persh assy. for the cost right now. thanks

[pitbike noob]

he said they were asv knock offs