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Horribly stupid mistake!

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Well i figured id do the Lock tight fix. I pull it all apart and did the stator side no prob. Then came the fly wheel. I was alone and was trying to hold the brake and tighten the bolt back on myself. I had a torque wrench that was ft pounds. So i just converted 175 inch lbs into ft pounds and set it at 14 lbs. I started tightening and figured since i was using a torque wrench i was fine. Then Snap!! The bolt twisted in half and broke :worthy::D

So after cursing and getting grip with what just happend i just finished the rest of the bolts and put it all back together.

So what should i do? Has anyone done this before? I know its prob not the best idea but I think in reality i can just ride it untill im ready to fix it. half the bolt is in there and it's got red lock tight on it and all the rest of the bolt are tight with lock tight. Whats the worst thing that can happen? the bolts are not coming out.

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I broke the head off one of the six allen head bolts in the clutch basket and removed it and had a machine shop drill it out. Cost $20 Worth every penny

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So you just brought the bike down there and they drilled it out and re threaded it?

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So what should i do? Has anyone done this before? I know its prob not the best idea but I think in reality i can just ride it untill im ready to fix it. half the bolt is in there and it's got red lock tight on it and all the rest of the bolt are tight with lock tight. Whats the worst thing that can happen? the bolts are not coming out.

Not such a big disaster - You are going to have to pull the flywheel though. You'll need this tool - http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0306/

After you get the flywheel off remove the remaining 5 bolts and and the starter clutch will come free from the back of the flywheel. If you are lucky there will be enough of the broken bolt sticking out to grab with visegrips. Heat the stub of the bolt with a propane torch to soften the locktite and it should twist right out. If the bolt is broken off flush, you'll probably want to take it to a machine shop - but you will have saved a bunch of money by getting it apart first.

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Oh man, that really blows.

I think 170inch lbs= 5.8 ft lbs

You could've been holding the flywheel with a 1 1/16th 1/2" drive socket while you torqued each allen to 5.8 ft lbs.

I just did this tonight and had to buy the inch lbs torque wrench to do it.

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Do you think it would be dumb to ride it like this? I mean other than maybe a little off balance( from missing head on bolt) everything it normal right? Bolt is lock tightened so its not coming out

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Do you think it would be dumb to ride it like this? I mean other than maybe a little off balance( from missing head on bolt) everything it normal right? Bolt is lock tightened so its not coming out

I would fix the problem first, when is is done you will be glad you waited.

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If the head of the bolt is broken off, it's not holding anything. Even if it's loctited in. It's basically the equivalent of an alignment dowell right now.

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Here's what you should do if this happen in the last 6 hours. If there's enough thread sticking out and you can gran the end of the broken bolt with some 'locking' vice grips. Do it and try to spin it before that red loctite fully cures.

Once it cures, you'll need to heat it up, because you won't have any leverage with the head missing.

Dang man, these metric allens are supposed to be grade 10 fasteners....I'm starting to wonder if Suzuki cheaped out and got some custom cheesy allens made for this application.

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Chances are that it would be just fine to go ahead and ride it. However, I personally would just get it fixed and have the peace of mind. It seems like these engines are engineered very specifically, if you only needed five bolts they would only use five.

By the way, can some one explain to me how 170 in lbs = 5.6 ft lbs???? I figure that dividing 170in-lbs by 12 in/ft = 14 ft lb. Sounds like you had the wrench set correctly maybe a defective bolt?

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I would agree with Ryan when it comes to trying to get that stud out ASAP before the red loctite fully cures. Not sure if all this just happened or not?

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Again, If there's enough sticking out, You could get in there with a small right angle grinder and a small cutoff wheel and cut a slot for a screwdriver. By now you will probably have to heat up the loctite to get it out. Lay some rags in there to catch the grinding dust and get in there with a magnet to pick up what's left. Be sure to get it all clean if you try to repair it on the bike. Good luck with it!!

Paul

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Wait, we need a pro to step in and set this straight.

I just torqued my starter clutch allens to about 5.8 ft lbs..

Your right 170" lbs/12 = 14.6 ft lbs

Someone just posted a how to earlier this week, and he said 70 inch lbs NOT 170 inch lbs

70 inch lbs/12=5.833 ft lbs. which is like hand tight..

My stupid Clymer manual says to torque them to 19ft lbs!!! What's up with that!?

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......

By the way, can some one explain to me how 170 in lbs = 5.6 ft lbs???? I figure that dividing 170in-lbs by 12 in/ft = 14 ft lb. Sounds like you had the wrench set correctly maybe a defective bolt?

Thing of it is, if a torque wrench has a range of say 10 ft. Lb ---> 100 ft. Lb it is really only accurate in the middle of it's range. Let's say 30 to 60 ft. Lb. As you near each end of it's capacity the error rate increases. Obviously how the wrench was treated and stored plays a role in how accurate it will be as well.

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Chances are that it would be just fine to go ahead and ride it. However, I personally would just get it fixed and have the peace of mind. It seems like these engines are engineered very specifically, if you only needed five bolts they would only use five.

By the way, can some one explain to me how 170 in lbs = 5.6 ft lbs???? I figure that dividing 170in-lbs by 12 in/ft = 14 ft lb. Sounds like you had the wrench set correctly maybe a defective bolt?

I've read that an foot pounds torque wrench turned down that far is ineffective. Mine won't click turned down that far. Need an inch pound torque wrench. I didn't even use a torque wrench when I did mine.

I used the force young jedi. :D I'm a wrenchin ninja! :worthy:

Paul

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Here's what I did...I took the bolt out snugged it back in using my ratchet to get a feel for it, then I took it back out and compared it to the torque wrench at the final setting I chose and it seemed reasonable.

That and I've read people say to use hand tight plus a little, and I've heard 70 inch lbs or 5.8 ft lbs.

I need to know because I have red loc tite curing as we type...

I can tell you another thing. The Inch foot lbs torque wrenches start at like 120 inch lbs...so you have to go below that to even hit 70 inch lbs on them. Maybe if you have a snap on, but I bought the oreilly $20 one..

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Searched and found this thread. 19ft lbns is wrong as I expected and 14 ft lbs is roughly twice the spec!

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=676968&highlight=starter+clutch+bolts+torque

According to Noble, 14 ft lbs probably stretched those little allens out and they now all need to be replaced.

Good lord, please put this info into the FAQ section..

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