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07 yzf 250 revalving the forks

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here is std, this is the 450 but i beleive its the same.

Stock base compression

32.12 (17)

30.12

28.12

26.12

24.12

22.12

20.12

18.12

16.1

14.25

14.25

Mid valve Stock reb

10.25

12.12

14.12

16.12

18.12

13.12

20.12

20.12

20.12

20.12

Mid valve Stock compression

20.12

20.12

20.12

18.12

16.12

14.12

11.3

11.3

17.3

17.3

float 0.2mm

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have you tried altering the compression adjuster first? what is you weight and speed?

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This bike should be plush already if you have the correct springs for your wieght. Like Mog said, just a few clicker changes should do the trick.

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32.12 (12)

30.12

28.12

26.12

24.12

22.12

20.12

18.12

16.1

14.25

14.25

his is my stock comp ship stack. stock in europe. whats stock in the us? its a yamaha 250f 2007.. i have the right springs for my weight. o would like to revalve it.. i would like to get the fork to work more like an ohlins fork.. get lower friktion. my stock feels so har in the beginning of the stroke

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i have done a few yz forks (in the UK) and never seen 12 shims on the base stack?

12 face shims is already pretty soft, you need to answer how much you weigh, what speed are you, is the oil level std? what compression setting you are running,

the stiff feel may have nothing to do with the shim stack,

have you checked your forks are correctly aligned? not overtightend the triple clamps?

whats your rebound set to?

we really need the full picture to help you diagnose the problem.

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I checked the valving again and it was

32.12 (17)

30.12

28.12

26.12

24.12

22.12

20.12

18.12

16.1

14.25

14.25

I changed it to

32.12 (2)

16.12

32.12 (14)

30.12

28.12

26.12

24.12

22.12

20.12

18.12

16.1

14.25

14.25

what do you think about that? i have a ohlins front fork to. i would like my stock to work more like my ohlins fork.. no nothing is overtighten and the fork is aligned..

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its a unusual way to do it but it might work out ok, i am just concerned it will drop into the stroke very easy with so much bleed from the soft initial part of the low speed.

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Are you revalving for the woods.?

I just took out 4x32:s and the fork was fine for the woods.

that was on my yz250f-06.

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Until you list your weight/skill level-speed/springs rates you won't likley get much help...but you have gone WAAAAAAY too far...try this:

(7)32

24

(7)32

rest of stack

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lew's or the previous suggestion (remove 4 face shims)will both work well IMO.

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any suggestion what to do then Mog? If i compare my stock fork with my ohlins, the stock got much more friction inside the fork.. i there any easy way to lower the friction?

what do you mean with friction? do you mean the fork doesn't move when you push on the seat near tank cap? (fork stuck) or do you mean the friction of the fork seals?

for the skill, I don't know if you don't know what skill is or if you don't know what skill you call yourself. for the first, it's how fast you are, for the second tell them at least if you ride woods or mx

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okay i ride mx. i don´t mean the forkseals. it just feels stuck, even when i have the forks of the bike.

I had a set of forks last week with the same issue.

anyone of you suspension gurus - what do you do with that kind of forks?

I check thoose forks if they slide with just their own weight. means i remove the seals, reinstall the bushings and lift the fork leg from horizontal position to an approx. 20° angle. then the outer tube must slide down just by their own weight. if not I put in new bushings - if this doesn't help or got even worse I grind down the outside of the bushings until the fork works.

I did this with the 08KX450F fork but when installed the fork still was stuck - means by pushing down the seat near the tank cap the fork doesn't move (my fork does).

while I am sure the fork must work better (and the rider stated it's noticeable better) I'm still wondering why they don't move by pushing down the bike :lol:

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I had a set of forks last week with the same issue.

anyone of you suspension gurus - what do you do with that kind of forks?

I check thoose forks if they slide with just their own weight. means i remove the seals, reinstall the bushings and lift the fork leg from horizontal position to an approx. 20° angle. then the outer tube must slide down just by their own weight. if not I put in new bushings - if this doesn't help or got even worse I grind down the outside of the bushings until the fork works.

I did this with the 08KX450F fork but when installed the fork still was stuck - means by pushing down the seat near the tank cap the fork doesn't move (my fork does).

while I am sure the fork must work better (and the rider stated it's noticeable better) I'm still wondering why they don't move by pushing down the bike :lol:

Wow if this is what you have to do, to get the forks to not bind up. Something doesn't sound right. I would look to another cause such as a bent fork tube. possibly wrong bush or seals (I have seen 4 just this season) In a upright position with new seals and bushings the upper tube will or should fall over the lower tube on its own.

Another suggestion, I see on a regular basis is the use of harsh detergents used to clean bikes. They leave a residual film on the fork tubes,this film doesnt agree with the seals and becomes very sticky . Over time this can build up to be pretty substantial.

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In a upright position with new seals and bushings the upper tube will or should fall over the lower tube on its own.

:lol:

this film doesnt agree with the seals and becomes very sticky

can happen with using brake cleaner to get rid of the remaining cleaning fluids.

That - and worse, in combination with non-greased seals - makes the outer tube stick pretty well.

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:lol:

can happen with using brake cleaner to get rid of the remaining cleaning fluids.

That - and worse, in combination with non-greased seals - makes the outer tube stick pretty well.

This is a very good point :p

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