Regina and DID chains

I'm looking to replace my chain soon and I've read good reviews on the regina and DID chains. Specificly the 0rn6 and the ERV3. Motosport offers great pricing but doesn't have the orn6, so would the 0rs6 be just as good?

For those that prefer DID chains would you say that the DID erv3 would be a better buy for $134 compared to a Regina ORS6, and why?

I ride only MX, and I'm looking for a chain that won't need that much adjusting after the initial few, and want it to last atleast 6-9 months. Keep in mind I ride about 2 hours a day 2-3 times a week. I'm just a beginner so thos hours really aren't hard hours.

The TT store has the ORN6 for $87.

The ORS6 is a slightly stronger, slightly higher quality chain for $101, but the ORN6 is plenty. The ORS6 is normally shipped with a rivet type link, but you can order a clip type for it for about another $3.

thanks for the info, Motosport has the ors6 for $79.99, I know they match the price, but it seems like too much of a hasle for $2 or so.

Other than not being able to remove the chain, is there any downfall to having a rivot style link compared to the clip style.

You need a proper riveting tool to set the master link.

I've been using DID X-ring chains, its hard to believe how long that chain will last, I wore out the master link clip in a 1 1/2 years of mud and sand, the link fell out and the chain was still acceptable. I think I adjusted the chain once. I paid $89 and now you need to order a clip style master also. Mike

I went with the Regina on recommendations from others (as did my riding buddy) and we both experienced kinked master links. I replace the master and everything seems to be ok but I've never had this issue with any other brand. Going back to DID.

I went with the Regina on recommendations from others (as did my riding buddy) and we both experienced kinked master links.
It's important that the master link be lubed on assembly with a good extreme pressure lube, preferably one that contains moly. The chain is sealed, and if it's assembled dry, it will stay that way.

If you cut the chain to fit, and you don't use a chain breaker designed for sealed chains, you will often times pull the inner plate out on the inner bushing sleeve. That narrows the gap where the O-ring lives, and will cause problems. It can be corrected after breaking the chain by pressing the plate back down where it belongs, but it's something that requires attention.

So when my local shop installs my chain, should I make sure they don't use a grinder to cut the chain, lol. Seriously though should I ask the shop any specific questions prior to handing over the bike and chain?

That depends. If the shop is reasonably reliable and competent, they should know all that already.

I've never used a chain breaker to shorten a chain, always just grind off the heads of one side of the pins and push the pins out easily with a pliers. Mike

That works, but a chain breaker is cleaner. It doesn't toss little bits of abrasive all over everything nearby, the new chain included.

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