Easy water pump and countershaft seal replacement!

Just replaced the outer waterpump seal and countershaft sprocket seals on mine and a mates 07 WR450's. Seems to be very common with these bikes and without having to pull half the motor apart they were done quickly with simple tools.

1st with the water pump I took the bolts out and pushed the cover to the side. Then undone the 12mm waterpump counter clockwise to expose the seal.

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Then with a 2mm drill I carefully drilled a little hole to the side of the seal. Don't drill to deep or you will touch the inner case. As you drill the seal with either pop out like it did with me or use a small wood screw in the hole to then pull out with pliers. Then simply push the new seal in and put it all back together! And hasn't leaked a drop :D

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Then for the countershaft seal take the sprocket off, cover and remove the collar exposing the seal and o-ring.

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With a small flat screwdriver 1st tap the seal in a little to crack it then pop it back out. The o-ring can be removed with a sharp tool. (I used a flattened stainless fish hook)

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Then simply replace the o-ring and new seal and thats it easy as!

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Nice job Aussie! :D

I like your style Aussie. Just did mine the hard way a few weeks ago. Your way looks much quicker. With my kickstarter seal leaking I think I'll try your methods.:D

The kick starter seal is a simple matter of removing the lever and the old seal by prying it out of place with a small screwdriver.

There are two faults with your approach to the impeller seal:

> Impellers tend to be fairly difficult to remove, and the shaft is machined on the inboard end so that it can be held with a 12mm open end wrench. The torque required to remove the impeller is often high enough that there is a real risk of snapping off the drive tab on the inboard end of the shaft.

> About 65% of the time, the impeller seal fails as a result of its wearing a groove in the impeller shaft. Replacing the seal from the outside makes it difficult to detect this, and a seal replaced on a worn shaft is a temporary fix at best.

The kick starter seal is a simple matter of removing the lever and the old seal by prying it out of place with a small screwdriver.

There are two faults with your approach to the impeller seal:

> Impellers tend to be fairly difficult to remove, and the shaft is machined on the inboard end so that it can be held with a 12mm open end wrench. The torque required to remove the impeller is often high enough that there is a real risk of snapping off the drive tab on the inboard end of the shaft.

> About 65% of the time, the impeller seal fails as a result of its wearing a groove in the impeller shaft. Replacing the seal from the outside makes it difficult to detect this, and a seal replaced on a worn shaft is a temporary fix at best.

Yes your right the shaft may have grooves but the leaky WR water pump seal is a lucky dip. Mine leaked with very low k's. Another friend replaced shaft as well and leaked shortly after. Mines been leaking for 12 months now, just a dribble every now and then and so far its dry. See how it goes. With the impeller, I put the bike in gear, spun the impeller till it locked then cracked the spanner quickly and it loosened fast. But be carefull!

Then for the countershaft seal take the sprocket off, cover and remove the collar exposing the seal and o-ring.

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With a small flat screwdriver 1st tap the seal in a little to crack it then pop it back out. The o-ring can be removed with a sharp tool. (I used a flattened stainless fish hook)

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PA130005.jpg

Then simply replace the o-ring and new seal and thats it easy as!

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Looks easy. But how the he** did you remove the collar?! My collar doesn't seem to want to move, even after a few wacks on the countershaft with a hammer and block of wood.

Any tricks to removing the collar?

Thanks.

Story

Hi Story,

Did my countershaft seal last week. I used vice-grps on the old collar as I knew I was replacing it with a new one. bit of a wiggle and out it came.

Kevin

Hi Story,

Did my countershaft seal last week. I used vice-grps on the old collar as I knew I was replacing it with a new one. bit of a wiggle and out it came.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin.

I guess I better plan on replacing the collar then. I'm sure it got pretty messed up with the vice grips.

Time to order a new collar!

Thanks.

Story

Vice grips work a treat. Mine and my friends seals have done over 1000km and no leaks! :worthy:

Hi all, I've just attempted the method as it's clearly time saving but I failed to remove the impeller :) , when I turn the nut counter clockwise it turns with the shaft until there is a tighter spot , it goes through it and turns again and again (crank not turning) have I messed sth? Is there a nut on the other end of the shaft that could have loosened? What's the trick to undo this fecker? Is it counter not clockwise to undo the impeller nut??? When I kick crank the engine the impeler turns OK , I'm all confused now

Yes counter clock wise to undo them. Should come out unless the thread is stripped?

Kloss - you need to have the bike in gear, sounds like you're in neutral or you don't have the chain on right now, so what the "hard spot" is is actually TDC on the piston, put the bike in gear with the chain connecting it to the rear wheel, either press the rear brake or set the tire on the ground - either way will lock the shaft. BUT - like Grey said - be careful, the proper way is to remove the right engine cover and use a 12mm on the backside.

I had the crank held with the spanner on the left side so it wouldn't turn, feels like with some forrce applied the end of the impeller shaft is turning over in the balancer shaft seat, possible?? I'll take the cover off this weekend and will see, the bike is '07 with 3000 miles on

It's a keyway so it's pretty much impossible.....could your clutch be slipping?

I had the crank held with the spanner on the left side so it wouldn't turn, feels like with some forrce applied the end of the impeller shaft is turning over in the balancer shaft seat, possible?? I'll take the cover off this weekend and will see, the bike is '07 with 3000 miles on

This indicates that the drive tab is rounded over to the extent that it slips in the slot in the end of the balancer shaft under pressure, and/or that the slot in the balancer shaft is worn to the point that it allows this. This may be the result of wear, or from trying to remove the impeller from the outside, which, as you may notice, I specifically advised against doing, in part for this reason exactly.

Your only choice now is to remove the right crankcase cover and evaluate the damage.

hmmm...

...a lucky dip...

...think I had a few of those back in college...:):lol:

S

grayracer you're walking wisdom :):lol: :lol: I couldn't wait till the weekend and checked the cause today, there is a visible wear on sides of the shaft tip, by trying to undo the impeller nut I just completed the job, here are the pics:

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the conclusion is DO NOT do this unless you're doing it again, and last time the nut was not tigtened as tight as mine was...don't get me wrong, I like what Aussie suggested as it's quick and usually replacing the water seal helps, my impeller shaft was pretty shagged sealing wise anyway which I did not expect of 3000 mile bike, I'm glad I had a look at it as I possibly prevented later failure and saved the balancer shaft (and replacing that would be a major job) this is my first competition machine and I learn some components age a lot quicker than on road bikes, but that I understand and can live with, off to the Yami dealer tomorrow to order the shaft

right, fixed mine today, new seals, shaft, bearing and side gasket,

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I tried a little mod with the shaft, it went surprisingly easy, 10 second hacksaw action and next time (it will surely come) I can safely fix the leak "lazy way" without stressing the shaft key, highly recommended

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