bigboy292000

Dr650 Faq

47 posts in this topic

How bout a link too the klr tire-discussion? iv been searching tt, adv, google, like crazy... cant find it :thumbsup:

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Well, unfortunately - I am not able to edit my own post (the FAQ) anymore... I guess there is a time limit. I emailed Thumpertalk folks for an exception on time limti to edit but never got a reply...

We'll see.

I have the same problem. I'm in the process of changing my ISP and I need to be able to edit all of the posts I've made that referrence my web site. Many pictures and how-to's in a lot of useful threads for the DR community. I sent a note to the mods but I have not got anything back but the auto-reply message. I'm sure they are pretty busy..... and I'm sure the pay ain't so great either. :banghead: Time is ticking down though before all of my posts are full of broken links. :banghead: :banghead:

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This isnt a complete "how to" but is shows where the spacer is supposed to go for those that may want to shorten the forks to go along with lowering the rear. All that is left to do is remove and flip the spring seat on the rear shock (just loosen the preload until you can lift the spring off the seat) and that's all there is to the factory lowering option. Oh, and a shorter sidestand.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9698277&postcount=23121

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This isnt a complete "how to" but is shows where the spacer is supposed to go for those that may want to shorten the forks to go along with lowering the rear. All that is left to do is remove and flip the spring seat on the rear shock (just loosen the preload until you can lift the spring off the seat) and that's all there is to the factory lowering option. Oh, and a shorter sidestand.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9698277&postcount=23121

What happens if just the spacer is removed?

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What happens if just the spacer is removed?

Then there's a 30mm gap the spring can flop around in if you accelerate rapidly or otherwise unweight the front.

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thanks for the FAQ.

did some work on my 1300km old '09DR650. She reacted very well.

drilled the slide

moved the clip on the needle (equivalent of 1 shim)

set the fuel/air screw properly (was only 3/4 turn out...) - 2.5 turns now.

ground the weld out the header

freeflow exhaust.

according to the dyno built into my ass, performance is way better. did a run the other day with a mate (KLR - same mods as my old KLR), left him standing.

I love my suzuki.

:crazy:

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Would it be at all possible to Frankenstein a kick starter to the case of a 2009 DR 650?

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I sometimes have my bike just die on me after I hit a bump or hump,,,I'm rolling over the bump with the clutch in and have to let out the clutch with the bike rolling to start it again.

After a quick inspection, I see there's a kill switch that breaks the ignition circuit on the kick stand. And the jolt is shutting off the engine.

I have not owned a bike since the 80s and did not realize this was an added safety feature,,,my friend's Shadow 100 also has one.

So I removed it and crimped the wires together.

It was probably a Federal mandate after some idiot drove off with the kick stand down and wiped out on the first left turn.....probably the same type of dumb-a$$ who strips Phillips head machine screws because he never figured out that you have to tap them to tighten or loosen them.......:worthy:

Anyways.....Am I the only one here to despise the kick stand kill switch or have any of you removed yours too.....?

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Would it be at all possible to Frankenstein a kick starter to the case of a 2009 DR 650?

Nope,,,not without some expensive, expert machining and parts from another older bike.

I mean, there's no hole on the crank case to insert a lever....just better buy a spare starter for when yours goes bad.

Besides, Even if the battery is dead you can push/run start it by popping the clutch in first gear,,,,right..?:worthy:

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Anyways.....Am I the only one here to despise the kick stand kill switch or have any of you removed yours too.....?

It's gone on mine.

Sometimes it would stick with the stand down slightly...

Besides, Even if the battery is dead you can push/run start it by popping the clutch in first gear,,,,right..?:worthy:

3rd to 4th gear - yes.

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Have any of you guys had a problem with the factory turn signals corroding out...?

Mine were totally rusted and not working,,,The replacements were crazy expensive.

But I found these after markets that use a single contact bulb,,,which is better because they don't short out like the double contacts on the base of the bulb.

Check these out,,,,$11.99/ set of two.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/70/7300/ITEM/Bikemaster-Universal-Mini-Stalk-Marker-Light-Kit.aspx

Another problem I had was my foot hitting the right rear signal while mounting the bike,,,because of where the stem is located on my DR650,,,right behind the seat.

So, after breaking the plastic stem mount I drilled a hole through the stem, around the mounting bolt and lock wired it into place.

Also,,, I over tightened the screws that hold on the lens.

So I drilled two corresponding holed through the lens and lock wired it on securely.

At 12 buck a pair I can afford an extra set, and they work great...:thumbsup: ,,,,check out the pics.

http://i30.tinypic.com/15hk6k1.jpg

http://i27.tinypic.com/2rnudfc.jpg

http://i32.tinypic.com/ilkf9f.jpg

www. my space .com/glennsixtyone

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Well, unfortunately - I am not able to edit my own post (the FAQ) anymore... I guess there is a time limit. I emailed Thumpertalk folks for an exception on time limti to edit but never got a reply...

We'll see.

In the future, either post up what you want added/changed/removed, and I can handle that for you.

I added the DRZ shock install thread and also the thread about how to bypass the kickstand switch.

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Done:thumbsup:

Cool... so do you feel like fixing any of the broken links in my Needle Comparison, FCR or GSXR threads.... they are some of the highest view threads on the DR forum. It is sad to have all those pictures and info missing that I spent so much time on. It is as simple as replacing my old IP addy with HTTP//:mxrob.com/

So for example the addy on page 57 of the Needle thread:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4411303&postcount=57

https://home.comcast.net/~rshafer9/images/All_Needles_2.pdf

would need to now be:

http://mxrob.com/images/All_Needles_2.pdf

I kept the same file format when I changed IP's.

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Cool... so do you feel like fixing any of the broken links in my Needle Comparison, FCR or GSXR threads.... they are some of the highest view threads on the DR forum. It is sad to have all those pictures and info missing that I spent so much time on. It is as simple as replacing my old IP addy with HTTP//:mxrob.com/

So for example the addy on page 57 of the Needle thread:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4411303&postcount=57

https://home.comcast.net/~rshafer9/images/All_Needles_2.pdf

would need to now be:

http://mxrob.com/images/All_Needles_2.pdf

I kept the same file format when I changed IP's.

Done!:bonk:

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I grabbed these. Haven't arrived yet but I grabbed 3 sets, i each for the DR's and a spare for breakage.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250640058105&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Ok, they have arrived and look good. Installed easy as they had bullet connectors so I cut the existing cables and installed bullet connectors on the originals so I can revert at any time. They are 10 watt bulbs though so I will have to either wire in a resistor or a digital flasher unit. These are a cheap unit to minimize breakage costs.

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