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Anyone Running a 14/52 Sprocket Combo?


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He wants to go up on both ends. I don't think the block will be wearing any faster. I have this combo (14/52) on my 06. I like it but I do mostly MX track stuff. I can start in 2nd no problems at all.

this combo is very close to stock so it should pull 2nd starts equally.

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Why wouldn't you think the rear block will wear faster? When the rear sprocket is alot bigger therefore closer to the chain guide it wears faster. One way to help this is to keep the wheel adjusted to the end of the swingarm away from the guide. One tooth in the front is minimal. Back in the day CR's had two bolt holes so you could move it lower to allow for bigger rear cogs.

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what is the advantage of 14/52 if it is almost the same as stock? I tried a 49 too, no good, went back to stock. I was thinking a 50 maybe?

If anyone knows I'm full of __it on this, by all means, correct me...but here it goes-

I believe that two f/r combos can have almost numerically identical ratios but still give a completely different feel. There are certain advantages to going up on the front and rear to net a numerically similar ratio but a different character to the way the engine goes through the power. If I recall correctly, a larger front mated to the correct rear to give a similar ratio as stock will spread the power out. Again, please correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I seem to recall the factories doing this same trick and one of the magazines explaining it. Hope this helps.?

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If anyone knows I'm full of __it on this, by all means, correct me...but here it goes-

I believe that two f/r combos can have almost numerically identical ratios but still give a completely different feel. There are certain advantages to going up on the front and rear to net a numerically similar ratio but a different character to the way the engine goes through the power. If I recall correctly, a larger front mated to the correct rear to give a similar ratio as stock will spread the power out. Again, please correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I seem to recall the factories doing this same trick and one of the magazines explaining it. Hope this helps.?

yes, i remember this on ricky's crf450... something about the relationship between how fast the front sprocket is spinning vs. the rear one. 14/52 was supposedly to "slow the engine down" while maintaining similar ratios.

it would be an interesting test if nothing else. im looking for maybe 14/50-51myself

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?

in addition to the motor spread mentioned i've also heard there are suspension/handling advantages to having a larger front sprocket relating to the chain/swingarm movement. but you'd probably have to be a pro to realize these diff's are even notice them...

Also: I read that the links do not move as much on the bigger countershaft sprocket so the chain lasts longer.

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I have no idea with regards to similar ratio with larger sprockets having any effect on engine characteristics. That's something I've never heard before, but I'm not necessarily saying there's no truth to it.

I can buy into the reduced chain wear, if for no other reason than the additional links required for the larger sprockets...fewer revolutions per link would seem to translate into less wear.

There has been a lot of discussion about larger c/s sprockets reducing the drive angle of the chain and thereby easing the beating on both the chain and the swingarm.

Personally, I swapped out my 06's stock drive combo for 13/50 and it made the positive difference that I was looking for. I did the same thing on my CR250 (13/49 stock to 13/51) and the two additional teeth on the rear sprocket made all the difference for it also. Keep in mind that I have both these bikes set up for the eastern woods and Appalachian mountains of north Georgia (as well as the yearly trek to WV), where it isn't uncommon to ride 500 ft. elevation changes within a half mile or so of trail.

Going up two teeth out back makes for a noticeable improvement, while a one tooth increase seems too small a change to even be worth it.

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It´s actually not that hard to find out if you need a longer or shorter chain. There´s a formula that I just used this morning to calculate a chain drive at work, but it´s for normal mechanical engineering, so I can´t guarantee the results.

All you need is the axle distance (center of front sprocket to center of rear sprocket), the number of teeth used on the sprockets and the chain cleavage (distance of the axles connecting two neighboring chain links).

And yes, it will change the motorcycles character, but not the engines character, since it´s the same ;-)

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what is the advantage of 14/52 if it is almost the same as stock? I tried a 49 too, no good, went back to stock. I was thinking a 50 maybe?

Mechanical advantage w/ a larger counter. I run a 14/52 or a 14/51. If you are fast enough and can carry corner speed try 14/50 or 14/49. Also you will loose a little straight line stability but the gain better turning and the shock works better also.

theDogger:thumbsup:

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With 14-52 your rear chain guide should be modified to lower it slightly so the chain does not rub on the plastic block just sitting there on the stand. Also run the axle towards the rear to get more clearance. The big advantage to running bigger gears is 1; it puts less load on the suspension when your on the gas and lets it react better. 2; The chain slack will change a little less thru the suspension travel. If you have the axle to the rear it will put more weight on front wheel for less wheelying and a different feel for the front tire handling. Check out the gearing on the pro's bikes for outdoor racing.

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With 14-52 your rear chain guide should be modified to lower it slightly so the chain does not rub on the plastic block just sitting there on the stand. Also run the axle towards the rear to get more clearance. The big advantage to running bigger gears is 1; it puts less load on the suspension when your on the gas and lets it react better. 2; The chain slack will change a little less thru the suspension travel. If you have the axle to the rear it will put more weight on front wheel for less wheelying and a different feel for the front tire handling. Check out the gearing on the pro's bikes for outdoor racing.

All correct. The main reason it's done is so the engine does not have the same mechanical advantage over the suspension under acceleration. The rear end stays 'unloaded' more as a result and you end up having a rear end that tracks better and wants to wheelie less. The shock does not have to fight the forces of the engine as much so it is free to do it's job as intended.

SM:ride:

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