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got my new bike!

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so i got the bike home and set up a bunch of logs and tight corners to play on and then i went for a ride in the woods i rode in when i was a kid. i haven't ridden a bike in there in probably 20 yrs. all in all it was quite a bit of fun. if it dosnt snow (or rain) tomorrow, i will try to set up some more stuff and maybe take some pics.

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Congrat.s shrubber-man. Was that the one listed at Mikes web-site? Doesn't matter, just curious what it looks like. Must've been fun, huh? Brings new life to riding doesn't it. And yeah, any pic.s you can manage would be great (even if it's snowing, haha). :lol:

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yeah, i got it from mike. it was a ton of fun, but i have to look for some hand work out tips!! my hands get wicked sore. does anyone run any kind of bar risers? i'm like 6'1". maybe there won't be much snow this winter, and i will be able to ride !!!! course if there is no snow, i won't make any ot plowing!!

i will try to get some pics for ya'll

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yeah, i got it from mike. it was a ton of fun, but i have to look for some hand work out tips!! my hands get wicked sore. does anyone run any kind of bar risers? i'm like 6'1". maybe there won't be much snow this winter, and i will be able to ride !!!! course if there is no snow, i won't make any ot plowing!!

i will try to get some pics for ya'll

OK guys, "Sore hands", wanting "taller bars".... This is a very common symptom for beginning Trials Riders.

Can anyone chime in and tell him what that means?? I'm tired of saying it over and over, but I will if no one takes over. :lol:

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take the weight off your hands. but maybe he's talking more about his hands cramping up from working the controls?

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Listen carefully when Ryan Young or any other Trials Teacher tells you to keep your weight on the foot pegs.. to keep your boots away from the frame, legs out with a soft grip and elbows relaxed. Problem is, it only takes them 10 seconds to say it, but I think they should be repeating it for 30 minutes over and over at least! Now, watch a video and see how much movement is going on in the legs and how the feet are all over the pegs. Watch the hands and see how they move with the bike and do not resist the bike movement nor cause the rider's body to be pushed or pulled from the balanced position. Pay special attention to the fact that the good rider is not tipping the head into the turn and that the bike is tipping side to side with the rider standing relatively still. Some people clamp their legs to the frame to hold the bike upright while they lean their body into the turns..

At a lesser level, you should be riding with your head and shouldlers upright and not hunched over the bars. Legs flexed and supporting all of your weigh. You turn the bike primarily by tipping it back and forth between the open legs. When you twist the throttle, you need to sink your knees forward and down, moving your waist closer to the steering head so that the foot pegs are "PUSHING" your body forward. It's only there for a second or two.. watch a World Rider Video in super slow motion, you will see it. When braking, you shove your butt back and down over the tip of the rear fender with your ankles back, knees straight with back and head down low behind the bars so that you are standing on the BACK of the foot pegs and the pegs are holding your body weight back... (look at my Avatar) Never let your weight fall into the bars and never allow your body to be "Pulled" along from the hands and handle bars.

I say "never" only to emphasize the importance. After you have this mastered, you can then go on to learning how to use the bars as tools.

So, stand so that the foot pegs are your only support. Take a wide stance when things get rough and "allow" the bike to dance around under you while you "hover" above the balance point.. Allow your hands to disappear from sight to your pockets or behind as you maintain balance relative to engine and gravity forces.. Imagine egg shells under your palms and spikes threatening your boots and legs on the frame of your bike. Put some decals on the frame at your boots and see how long you can avoid rubbing them off. Put something on your helmet and see how long you can ride without it falling off. Stop often and balance the bike with your arms relaxed and your boots away from the frame. Tip the bike to one leg while you do this with the front tire turned in the same direction (See the Ryan Young Training Video) Do this until you can do it RELAXED.. and confident.

i did a little searching ;-)

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All that's great advice. And so is this:

Just go out and have fun. Even if you don't worry about all that right now, you will still be able to do things on a trials bike you could never do on anything else.

-JB

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i did a little searching ;-)

Yes, that was one of my better series of tips that included the core of what will take you 95% of the way to total success.... without being 3 pages long. :p

You can say it many ways and maybe it keeps going over your student's heads because the concept is so simple when the students are looking for difficult, hard to learn lessons.

A good exercise is to ride a familiar section or trail that used to be difficult but is now not too bad and then concentrate on riding it with just your finger tips touching the bars. You relax over the balance point of the foot pegs with legs and arms flexed and loose, but always monitoring your hands and legs for signs of hanging on because you are falling away from that balance point. Exaggerate the body positioning to stay over that balance point. You may be surprised to see that in a video, what seemed exaggerated and funny looking in your mind looks even conservative compared to the Pros when they ride.

When the front tire bangs into something and kicks up and back, it should meet no resistance from you and will not have the slightest affect on your position over the pegs. Any corrections to the bike come from your feet snapping the pegs left and right between open legs.

Now, to do this and maintain this stance takes a lot of physical conditioning. When you open your legs with bent knees, you lower your upper body and then discover that the handle bars are at the perfect height. When the front comes up to clear a step or obstacle, the grips on the bars may end up slightly behind you for a moment. Taller bars will push your body back behind the balance point on the pegs.

If you never plan to ride more difficult terrain or are just starting out with flat exercises, then the stock bars will be uncomfortable and maybe you should change to taller bars. For competition or difficult terrain, the low bars are perfect. Look at the top riders, most of them are tall... above 6'-2" except for Fuji-Gas, but he's not short either. They all ride pretty much with the bars that come stock on your bike. Tall guys have long arms.. it averages out. If you find you need to lean on the bars, it's because your legs are tired, they need a rest and will get stronger with time. Standing tall with stiff legs puts the bars a long way from your reach.

When the terrain is easy, go ahead and lean on the bars to take a load off of your legs. Slip your feet forward to the arches, but just before you enter a challenge, go through your check list and set your feet where they work best, relax your grip and get over that balance point with the knees adjusting for power changes and tipping the bike left and right. I do that mental check list and wag the bike back and forth between my legs with a couple of power spurts to test my hands before I let fly.

If you would like some intense leg and balance training, get a Pro Style Pogo Stick. Probably nothing better for Trails Leg building. And the jumping technique for controlling the height of the jump and the direction of the Pogo jump are exactly what you use on the bike.

If you can remain over the peg's balance point, you are always ready to use your legs as springs and shock absorbers. The pegs and bars are then "TOOLS" for controlling traction and power delivery. If you use them for body support to keep you from falling off, then you lose them as tools.

If you try the "bean bag" suggestion for your helmet, remember, it's only your head and shoulders that are remaining still. Your arms and legs will be busy allowing the bike to move where it needs to without yanking your head around.

It feels SOOOOO good when you finally can do it. But practice it often in familiar territory so you can concentrate on the feeling of the forces and not be distracted by unfamiliar or difficult objects. Then go out and see how long you can do it in new terrain. :lol:

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2-ply,no offense,but maybe he does need bar risers and maybe he has issues with his hands like i do, carpal tunnel?i have a tight grip because of it.people have different ergo needs,and of course your skid plate didnt touch,but your back wheel sure is spinning fast? learning how to ride online is over rated!!!!!!!!!!!!.just ride, you can watch vids all day long...........get out and do it,youll figure it out.

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2-ply,no offense,but ....your back wheel sure is spinning fast? ......

Photos can be misleading Fester, note there is no weight on the suspension, it's completely extended front and rear. We were basically practicing bunny hops with the rock.. the rear wheel is NOT spinning against the rock, it's just coming into contact with the rock as I shove the bike forward and down with feet and hands... the reason for this photo was to show how far back my knees are relative to the pegs... Many people will jump things like this with knees directly above the pegs because they tend to lock their ankles and calves to the frame...

So did you have a bad day or something?

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I have to agree with ****ingFester on the ergo's. But we're stuck with the "one size fits all" frames.

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no pun guys,but bar placement and height are huge and personal,lets not assume its the person doing something wrong.im short 5-9 i like tall bars i have nerve damage in my hands and elbows and cant do the 8-week recovery per hand for surgery.2-ply the best vids are the ones of yourself,the other ones are entertainment,yes i shy away from written instruction when it comes to riding.riding with people better than you is the best wat to learn!bad day?im a contractor.nuff said

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Fester - do you use tall bars or risers or both. I am toying with the idea of adding a small riser to my bike, but my Dad claims that I just need to get used to it. The pro ergo's are more more extreem than my Edition and are compounded since I hurt my back a few weeks ago and riding tends to lock me up. Im leaning toward putting in a 15mm riser plate and trying that. Maybe take it out when the back is better. Im kinda curious if there is any difference between risers and bars when adding height.

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i have the fat bar clamps which are taller than stock and the tallest tag fat trials bend bars,it helps my hands from falling asleep.i use tall bars on my enduro bikes as well,say that fast 3 times "tallest tag fat trials bend bars"

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Cool - Thanks. I think I may just try a small riser and see how the back/bike likes it. Im just using the stock clamps now. The tall bars are expensive and hard to pronounce - so im out.

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The thing about bar risers is: If you think it will improve your trials ability, you are wrong. If you need it for other reasons, then by all means, do it. I use 1/2 inch of rise myself because most of my riding now is non-competition and I spend many hours with both wheels on the ground on single track trail systems. I even roll my bars back to vertical from the clamps when trail riding. For sections, I roll them forward to at least 15 degrees forward of the clamps.

Plus, from many jumps over large logs using the wrong technique, I've probably had many little whiplash episodes when I ran out of arm extension from being too far back and standing too tall on some of those jumps, so now I have a stiff neck that kills me on the long downhill rides.

But if your primary use of your bike is for section work in Trials Events, don't raise the bars. Or if you do, remember that your big step / log jumping / steep hill performance might suffer a some.

I have seen so many new riders compensating for bad technique by modifying the bike. They dump hundreds into the bike with little to no improvement in their ride instead of dumping their money into instruction to improve the rider. Until recently, there were very few places if any where you could go to get expert, structured help.

When a new rider is having trouble following more experienced riders, 99% of the time it has nothing to do with the bike as long as that bike is set up correctly with stock components.

Have someone check out your bike for proper setup of bars, levers and suspension, then get some good "hands-on" instruction with hours and hours of practice before you start changing the bike.

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