Chain recommendation needed KLX 300

I'm looking to replace my original chain. I plan to replace both front and rear sprockets. Uncertain on gearing I want to run. I've been switching between 14/50 (stock) and 13/50. I can notice a slight torque improvement running 13. Thinking on going to either a 51 or 52T in back to add more torque. I ride different trails. tight stuff, I run 13T. Faster trails, I run 14. I like to have that switching option. Any thoughts on if I would be better off with a 51 or 52 in the back?

If I go to a 52, what length chain do I need. Can I use 520/110? Or do I need longer. Any chain recs? Oring or X-ring? Cost is a factor.

Finally, how do you cut off the original chain? Do I need a special tool? Never had to do this before. Thanks.

Cost is a factor.

Finally, how do you cut off the original chain? Do I need a special tool? Never had to do this before. Thanks.

One of the things you should not skimp on is the chain/sprockets. You really get what you pay for.

RK X or O ring chains are nearly indestructable. I ride mainly MX and only need to adjust that chain every 5-6 rides. Get a 120 link chain and cut it to size. All you need to do is grind away the rivets on one link, pry off the side plate and tap the posts out with a small punch. I religiosly use RK and Renthal aluminum sprockets, but you'll get longer life from a good steel one. Maybe someone can chime in on steel sprockets or search the General forum.

I run a 13T/51T combo when I ride the tight trails that require a lot of low end pull especially around switchbacks. It works for me. I use Renthal sprokets on both ends ( I like the weight savings of aluminum over steel) and a DID520ERT2 chain. I do not know how a 52T rear would work but you might be sure it does not create too tight of an angle exiting the chain guard.

You can remove the original chain be removing the chain from the rear sprocket, which requires removal of the rear tire, chain guard, etc and then removing the front sprocket. You should have enough clearance between the frame/engine case to pull the chain out. This way, you can reuse the chain in the future, if needed. You shouldn't need to grind any rivets off etc. The new chain can go on in the reverse order. This method worked for me.

Thanks for the input. I'm going with a 51t and I was able to get off chain following your instructions.

To remove the stock chain without breaking it (it has no master link) you have to remove the swingarm.

If the original is still good you can install a master link after you remove it as Jeekinz described.

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