HID Conversion Complete - '07 450 EXC

With the winter months coming upon us quick and the short days and early nightfall, I wanted to be able to extended the usable riding hours by upgrading the headlight on my '07 KTM 450 EXC. The stock headlight, I think, sucks for off-road, throwing little light, certainly not enough to have any confidence night riding. But I still wanted to remain passably street legal, that meant those nice Baja Designs 8" race lights were off the table.

So I searched around and investigated a HID conversion. I looked at the Trail Tech X2, but it appears to be off-road only, no high/low beam, and still says "coming soon" like it has for months now.

So instead I went with H4/9003 Bi-Xenon Hi/Lo HID Conversion Kit (Single-Bulb) from XenonRider.com .


This ran $165 with the upgraded slim ballast which I wanted to be able to stuff it all behind the headlight mask.

The conversion starts with converting the electrical system to DC-only. I used the Baja Designs DC conversion kit to do that at $55, part number 611040:


This mod requires removing the stator cover and the stator:


Before the mod:


And desoldering two tap points and splicing them together with the provided teflon wire and crimps and soldering them for a good connection.

After the mod:


After re-installing the stator and cover, you need to make a simple modification to the stock wiring harness to separate the headlight and taillight feeds from the old stator output connection, and tap it into the 12V DC pick-up which picks up off the relay under the headlight mask.

You then replace the stock regulator with the new one provided in the Baja Designs kit.

The instructions are easy to follow and all the connectors and extensions are provided in the kit. It's a simple conversion.

You will know you did it right when you turn on the key and the headlight lights up. I have the Sicass slim headlight switch which has an off-position so if you have one of those, make sure it is "on" when you do that.

Now that the stator is upgraded, and headlight is DC powered, you have done all the prep work for the HID conversion.

The XenonRider Bi-Xenon hid conversion kit comes with an H4 bulb, ballast, relay and connector to plug into the stock harness, and all the wiring connectors. The one thing you will need to provide is a power cable from the battery up to the headlight mask. I used the fused end included in the XenonRider kit and just extended that up to the headlight mask with some additional wiring and terminated with a female trailer wiring connector that I cut down to two connections.

For the kit itself, I replaced the bulb and reused the stock dust cap. Just use scissors or a sharp knife to cut out a circle in the center to accommodate the bulb. Note that the bulb section separates in the middle so that you can slide the rubber dust cap over, then the stock bulb locking ring, then the bulb hood. Insert into the stock headlight reflector, and lock it in place with the stock lock ring. Then slide the dust cap into position onto the reflector housing. I also retained the stock parking bulb, not because it is really needed for light, but because it blocks the hole that would otherwise allow dust and moisture to enter.


The stock bulb plug does not plug into the H4 xenon bulb, but instead, the kit provided relay plugs into the stock bulb connector. So your bar switches simply activate the relay, which in turn supplies power to the xenon bulb and activates the "low beam" solenoid.

Now the hard part, you have to mount the ballast and all that wiring in behind the faceplate somehow. I started by mounting the ballast with 3 screws through the ballast mounting holes. I then arranged the wiring, connectors, and relay as best I could to sit in the mid-portion of the headlight mask, above the head light, but low enough to clear the indicator bulbs in the stock dash. I used tape to hold the bundle together, and plenty of zip ties, and even a short length of aluminum flat stock to provide some stability. Here is my self-contained HID converted headlight mask after I was done:


When mounted, you can tell no difference from stock except the 3 ballast screws:


I've taken it on two rides so far over some rough terrain and it has so far held up well, no surprises, and no problems. At night it really throws out a ton more light than the stock headlight. And it also retains a passable low beam for the street, though I did have one car flash me even when I was on low-beam so it may still be a bit bright for the road.

Here it is powered, this is taken with camera flash on:



And this one is with the flash off:


Sorry I don't have any "before" photos for comparison, but the "after" results make a huge difference. Off-road especially, the trail in front and to the sides is illuminated very well and is much safer and enjoyable for riding at night. The only thing better would be some helmet mounted HID in addition so that you can still see while you wheelie, jump, and top-over hills.

Cool post thanks for sharing. I'm planning to do something similair to an 08+ style headlight for my 07 525 along with an upgraded stator and flywheel, regulator etc

If I go for an upgraded stator I've been looking at the electrosport and trailtech which one do you think is better?

Thanks nobrakes, I've been looking for a streetable upgrade to the stock lighting on my 530.

What color temperature bulb did you select?

4300K, 6000K, 8000K, 10 000K, or 12 000K?


If I go for an upgraded stator I've been looking at the electrosport and trailtech which one do you think is better?

I don't have any experience with either you mention, so I couldn't recommend one over the other, sorry.

Thanks nobrakes, I've been looking for a streetable upgrade to the stock lighting on my 530.

What color temperature bulb did you select?

4300K, 6000K, 8000K, 10 000K, or 12 000K?

I went with the 6000K. It's pretty white, it looks good off-road at night. Maybe a little whiter than sunlight.

great wright up! this might be a dumb question but- I have read about stator upgrade/ conversions before, can I assume some of the exc power is ac current? what is the total dc watt output when done with the conversion?

Also-after see so many klx owners go orange I have to- now have a 08 450exc-r, what a difference.

Yes, the stock stator outputs a good portion of its energy as A/C, directly powering the headlight and tail light. The rest is wired for DC and charges the battery, runs the optional fan, etc. Rewiring for DC makes all the stator energy available as DC to charge the battery, power the lights, fan, etc. But I don't know what the total output is. If you find out, let me know, I am curious.

its about 75 watts in stock form if you do the dc mod.

I looked at the Xenon website, I have a 530 exc-r, how did you know which one to select? I was riding 40 mph down a back unlit road the other night waiting for a pothole to swallow me and test all the protective plastic I was wearing. Stock is dangerous, I didn't beat the sun going down and did 30 miles on back roads and was mentally trashed when I was finished.

You want a bi-xenon (hi/lo beam) and H4 bulb replacement. Double check the new 530, though, and make sure it has an H4 bulb, if not, you need whatever bulb type is in there. Note that the HID bulb is not actually H4, but rather it has a plug from the included HID wiring that plugs into your stock H4 bulb's socket. This makes the swap-over easy - you just plug into the stock socket and your hi/lo beam works, etc. Your light switch and hi/lo beam actually now just activates a relay which powers the HID and the hi/lo beam solenoid which changes the bulb's position in relation to the reflector which simulates hi/lo beam.

Also, be sure and get the "slim" ballast. Not sure you can make the other one fit.

As a side note, this set up is hold up well and is still working fine. But if it didn't require a stator upgrade, and if I was doing it a 2nd time, I might seriously consider the TrailTech X2 light instead. But dang, that is a whole lot more expensive especially considering we need a stator upgrade to power the dual HID lights. Looking at almost $500 including stator + lights, vs about $170 for this setup. I'm sure the TrailTech throws out more light and a better beam with a purpose built reflector and dual lights, though. But using the stock reflector with one of the bulbs above is not horrible - it puts out a whole lot more light than stock.

so your bike came stock with a H4 bulb?

mine didn't, it came with some blinker bulb thing that isn't even halogen .

did yours come with this and you just modified it?

how does your lens hold up to the extra heat? I heard these things were melting

that's sick though, congrats

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Ponch
      I have a 2007 450 EXC that I recently installed a new clutch slave cylinder on. Per the 2007 KTM service manual it clearly states that the clutch needs to be filled with hydraulic oil, which I did (magura blood). That was yesterday. I went out to double check the level today and when I removed the cover, the rubber seal was all contorted and out of shape. I then looked at the cover and it's a Brembo clutch and says "DOT 4 brake fluid only".
      I flushed the line and the master cylinder about 7 times with DOT 4 brake fluid and there was no sign of the magura blood left in the system. My question is: other than the rubber boot on the master cylinder, what damage might have been done by putting in the hydraulic oil? It was in for about 24 hours.
      Thanks in advance for any advice!
    • By pumpernickelBrad
      Hi Folks!

      Sorry if there are a bunch of threads already but I used the site's search function and didn't find anything so far...

      I just found a decent deal on a '14 350 EXC-F with 11k km (unknown hours). Has a few goodies including skid plate, hand guards and it's for sale for about $2k CAD less than a '16 with 6k km on it.
      The bike is in showroom condition (appearance) with no indication it has been offroad at all.

      What would be the gotchas that would make this deal realistic? I'm coming from a WR250R where the engine lasts forever, is 11k street kms high for these bikes? 
      Are there any big defects in the '14s that I haven't dug up yet?
      With no service records what things should be done, checked, etc?
    • By Brannnt
      I purchased an '06 525 EXC some time ago, and recently pulled the motor out of the frame to address some other issues. When I removed the clutch slave cylinder, I noticed an issue the previous owner neglected to tell me about during the purchase.
      It appears that at some point, the chain broke and damaged the engine case near the clutch slave cylinder (see pics, please). I have noticed that the clutch does not fully disengage (bike lurches a bit going into gear, neutral is hard to find... its worse when engine is cold) ... I did not notice any leaks around this area (mineral oil or engine oil) before or during disassembly. 
      The previous owner (or someone) repaired it with some sort of epoxy.
      Without doing my due diligence (checking clutch fluid level, bleeding) I hesitate to state that this is the cause of my clutch disengagement issue ... but pardon my ignorance here and help me out: How bad is this?  Am I looking at replacing my engine case here or is the previous owner's jerry rig good enough?

    • By Black Sox
      Just bought a new 2017 350 excf ,will be doing 98% off road ,ordered skid plate bark busters ,
      my ? Is what's the best easiest way to eliminate rear fender light assembly.I still would like to have a break light.
      xcf fender will fit so dealer says,under $50.00 👍But xcf brake light $125.00 .👎What's the best economical way of doing this?
    • By JNV
      Hi friends from Spain.
      Mi new KTM