Suspension Help

[Harold_in_So_Cal]

Hey guys, a couple of suspension questions. I have a 2000 WR 400. Like a lot of us, I’m riding a lot more MX and fewer trails than when I started. My problem is that the suspension is too soft. I’m looking at getting a MX bike later in the year, but until then I want some quick/hopefully inexpensive fix. A while back I had the suspension re-valved to make it stiffer and it helped. But now I’ve got all my compression clickers maxed out and my rebound is so tight that the bike is like a brick. It barley moves when I sit on it. I’ve backed off the rebound to get some bounce but on jumps it seems to compress to easy that way.

So, I’m thinking of stiffer springs. This seems like a moderate expense ($300 springs plus labor for both ends is my guess but I haven’t bid it out yet). I would like to be able to back off of the compression for trail riding and still be ok but the primary emphasis is MX. Could someone maybe compare the WR springs with the YZ springs? Are there numbers to indicate spring stiffness? I’m 180 lbs. Thank you.

[John_B]

I have heard two different stories. 1- A few weeks back someone on this forum stated there is a difference in springs. Something like .4 difference. Not sure what that means. 2- When I asked the dealer a few days ago he said there was no difference. So I am confused...

[John_B]

I looked at someone's post who has a 98 WR and he is using a Race Tech 5.6 shock spring.

[RLucky82]

Have you tried thicker oil, higher levels and larger preload spacers should help the condition.

[RLucky82]

oh by the way the yz spring should be softer cause the yz weighs less ...

[RLucky82]

one more thing you can make your stock springs stiffer by shortening them... the shorter the stiffer. there is a formula but I don't have it yet. I know racetech techs have it.

[StreetMoto]

At 180lbs you are in the ballpark for the springs on your bike. What level rider are you and what problems were you having on the track before you started to crank up the compression clickers? I mean, were you bottoming out through the whoops and small jumps or are you skying the think so far is bottoming hard on the landings?

[MN_Kevin]

Hey Harold!!!!!!

If you punch up Race Tech's website, they have a formula for calculating your spring #.

Of course, this may easily vary from shop to shop dependent on the valving, but it will give you something to ponder.

I had Factory Connection re-valve both ends. At my insistance of "recreational rock and root rider", they stuck a 5.2 on mine (stock 5.4?) and lighter springs in the front. At a mild mx track at Bill's in PA, the suspension worked superb. I told FC I weighed 165#, not the 180# I tip the scale at. I am bound and determined to get on the Atkins diet and drop the 15# my massive beer consumption has caused. ?

Have you lost your southern accent EVEN THOUGH you live in So Cal??

AND did you ever get your carb working CORRECTLY? I jumped on the Taffy suggestion of RADICAL JETTING CHANGES. I am happy to announce that my bike ran pretty good. I do have some minor adjustments to do, but my bike seems to run OK!

Take Care Harold!!

Kevin

The Beast from the NorthEast!

[ June 27, 2002: Message edited by: NH Kevin ]

[Harold_in_So_Cal]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The oil and preload spacers may be good choices. I called around today and got the same info that Street Moto said, the springs are about right for me. If I wanted stiffer it would need to be revalved.

StreetMoto- Where is it soft- it bottoms on jumps where I getting medium air (25 to 40 ft I guessing) and hitting on the flat table top. Maybe everything bottoms at that size, I don’t know. But it also feels soft on corners and whoops. Level of Rider- about middle of the pack on an average track day.

Kevin!!!!!! How are you. It’s good to hear you are riding. My Southern Accent- some people claim I’ve lost it and others say its still there so I don’t know. I must think in Southern because to me I sound normal. But I’ve fallen down and hit my head a lot also. Be careful with Atkins. You know what you’re doing but the Zone seems a little better balanced. Maybe there is a beer diet. I don’t know what I’m going to do about my bike. I’m riding more mx and really want a 250F or CR450F. But money’s tight too. So many choices. I think the best thing would be Moab riding with all the guys. My jetting was done by James Dean and Clark Mason in 2000 and its been that way since. There was a big post on the 250F site that James authored. I’m happy there are guys like that and are willing to test. I just want to bolt it on and ride.

[RLucky82]

Higher fork oil levels are the best defense against bottoming. Contrary to popular belief that is not the purpose of springs! altho stiffer springs do ad bottom resistance they can also make life difficult in braking bumps and excelleration bumps...

my advice; Don't land flat. but seriously check and set your free sag and rider sag, expirement with oil levels and spacers. Finally consult your manual it has a wealth of money saving set up tips.

[StreetMoto]

Yep,

I agree with RLucky82. Work with the oil settings to resist harsh bottoming.

I think everything bottomes when you come up short on a 40 foot table! you need to go that extra few feet to backside the landing. haha!

where do you ride? Im at saddleback and elsinor a lot.

[ISBB]

i have bout 10hrs on my new o2 wr and the suspension is gettin soft for my big arse but since i havent adjusted it yet... im gonna take the compression clickers up a notch or two and try that... compression clickers are the ones on top of the forks right... and then for the rear... prolly a couple clicks also...

[StreetMoto]

The Compression clickers are on the bottom on the forks. Thats the rebound up top. On the shock, the low speed compression is inside the red 'nut' on the top of the shock res. The red 'nut' is the high speed compression.

[MN_Kevin]

comp clickers are on the bottom on your forks; top on your shock.