04 WR250 Conversion to 12V DC with Battery

I have had this husky all summer, it came plated for the road but was missing a few legal items such as horn, brake light and high beam... I don't use it much on the road but do link trails a bit when riding orgnizing rides...

As well without a battery I noticed a few disadvantages...

- I was blowing a fair amount of light bulbs .. whether that was due to the AC or a bad regulator I don't know... but in either case a bike with a battery would be a lot easier on bulbs...

- No lights or horn while the engine was not running. When riding with others and having issues it's nice to beep back and forth...

My mission in the work below was to get to a full road legal status that a police inspection would not have any excuses and improve my electrical performance as noted above. The husky comes with an adequate 130W stator so the power requirements are there.

1) Battery... There is tons of room in the WR250 airbox so I built a bracket from 6061 1/8" thick Al plate to support a 2.9 AH 12V sealed lead acid battery. It is simply held in place with a strap and cushioned with litte velco and a foam. Battery was around $20

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2) Regulatar / Rectifier

As the husky is outfitted with a Regulator only a Regulator/Rectifier was needed to convert the AC stator voltage to charge the DC battery. Trail Tech makes a 150W unit (~$55 cdn)... they say that you have to isolate the system from the chasis but on the Husky that is not possible as the stator connection is dependent on the frame... so the Trail tech is wired to the frame and works fine. This mounts in the same location as the stock husky regulator, a few washers behind it are needed because of a weld; After this pic I turned it 180deg to improve wire clearance for the headlight wires.

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3) Controls

I found a nice High/Low, on-off, and horn switch at my local salvage yard ($20).

I connected the brake light and horn directly to the battery, everything else is turned on through the ON-OFF switch (Heated grips[through a relay], Head Light and tail light)

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4) Horn and heated grips

The horn and bracket came off some Kawi street bike, Salvage yard $5, I lucked out as the bracket allowed me to mount it to the triple clamp with one extra hole drilled, it also provided a mount for the grips HIGH-OFF-LOW switch and also a spot to epoxy the grips resitor to. The Grips are control through the ON-OFF switch but main power goes through a relay as I figure the extra 3Amps would burn out the "tiny" contacts in the Handlebar control.

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5)Rear Lamp

While I was in Germany last I found this little "Made in Tawain" LED Tail/Brake lamp for 14.95Euro... had to make a bracket to mount it to my Acerbis rear fender, it works great.

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Overall draw with Headlight on High (35W), Heat grips on High, Tail Light and Brake lamp.... ~ 5.9Amps...

R's G

Nice cost effective job! Turnsignals not required up yonder?

Withouut the battery, I wonder if the rectifier would still be a good idea for the headlight? SP

Nice cost effective job! Turnsignals not required up yonder?

Withouut the battery, I wonder if the rectifier would still be a good idea for the headlight? SP

Turns signals depend on the Provence you live in Canada, Ontario if the bike was not original with them they are not needed. In Quebec all road legal vehicles have to have indicators, other provinces I am not sure.

As for a rectifier without a battery.. hmm not sure about that one but I would not risk the $55 on a floating device, If you are worried about the extra weight maybe a large capacitor would help on the output... I went for the battery to have the lights and horn when the bike was not running...

G

I have done the d.c. conversion w/o the battery works fine used this to drive2 1157 led lamps for tail, brake lights. Can't really say wether it made my headlight last longer or not cause I am on the original lamp 02 wr 360. Eventually I put in a 12v 1.5 a.h. battery, will not keep headlight on but keeps the light levels more consistant @ idle was lights were dim. By the way I only used a 35amp bridge rectifier cost 7 dollars @electronics store this way I could use stock regulator.

By the way I only used a 35amp bridge rectifier cost 7 dollars @electronics store this way I could use stock regulator.

Nice... I was just lazy!.... Several members might benefit from more details of the rectifier that you tracked down...

G

Island Rider:

Is the bridge rectifier a 2wires in,2wires out hook up? Did you mount it on the backside of the frame downtube? SP

The rectifier is about 1"by1" zip tied it right next to battery ,in roughly the same spot as Grahamm. My battery is about half the size I just used velcro to mount batt. If I went to a bigger batt I might try to make a nice bracket like Grahamm did nice job.Yes the rectifier has 2 ac conections plus 2 dc conections +&- other than that any electronics place will be able to get one, used a small terminal strip to wire everything up.(note 35amps is way more than you need but they are all the roughly same price and size@Queale electronics)

Talk about diggin up old threads but.... Does one just run a hot wire from the main stator output to the new regulator/rectifier and then to the battery? And then run everything else dual sport from the battery?

Thanks

I just used the head light feed.

this diagram is how I modified my wr

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