Oil Drain Plug washer

I have gotten into, what I think is a good, habit of changing my trans oil after each weekend's rides. The only annoying thing about this is that with my 2003 kx125 I have to replace that oil plug washer (gasket) each time.

My Kawasaki shop charges (amazingly) almost $3 bucks a washer! Online I have found them a little cheaper

92065 GASKET,10.5X16X1 92065-058 $2.39

As of today the shop is out of stock ... as is motosports.com.

Has anyone found a reasonable alternative to this pricey little washer/gasket?

Thanks!

I use a moose magnetic drain plug and never change the washer on it.

After market drain plugs! I had no idea!! Thanks!!!

The drain plug washer is a crush washer. Some folks, who are probably technically correct, will point out that once it is crushed, it should be replaced. However, I reuse mine multiple times and only actually change them in my "big" tuneups, which include things like lubing cables and changing the spark plug.

You can buy a pack of similarly sized aluminum washers at AutoZone (they are over near the oil filter wrenches and stuff like that) for about 1/4 of the price per unit of the OEM washer. I use those, and I have had no problems.

One thing to keep in mind is that like the crush washer on a spark plug, once it has been crushed, the torque spec from the manual is out the window. On a non-new crush washer, just tighten the drain plug until you feel like it won't vibrate out; don't torque it down to 20 ft. lbs. or whatever the manual says - you are more likely to strip the threads in the case with a used crush washer than with a new one.

Another thing to remember is that lots of people, me included, do stuff that is not 100% "right" with no bad results. That does not mean it is smart, it just means we have not found out why the factory says to do it a certain way yet.

See you on the trail.

Brent

Thanks for all of that! I appreciate it! :thumbsup:

Some other threads on other forums seemed to be of the opinion that the washer is more over torque protection than seal. If that is the case then, as bmcd308 suggests, just snugging up the bolt enough to prevent vibrating out would be key.

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