7/8's or 1 1/8's Handlebars?

I want to get some new bars to replace my oem bars on my 03 rm125, but don't know what to get. Is it worth it to get tusk 1 1/8 bar adapters($30) and Protaper Evo Bars($85) or just get Protaper se bars($60). I might start racing harescrambles and ride daily,so the bars should be able to take some abuse. Also, do big bars help with vibration? What should I get?

I don't know about vibration, but I got the tusk adapters (they are fine for the job, just as good as others) and RENTHAL TWIN WALL bars. I wouldn't waste money on just a simply oversized bar. All or nothing here. If you want strength, get the twinwalls.

I love my pro taper evo's but I also got the pro taper super stock triple clamp.

I use 1 1/8. Mostly because its just more comfortable with it, I sat on my friends bike that didnt have them and it just didnt feel right, and you could always get the pro taper contours (1 1/8) for like $60

I use 1 1/8. Mostly because its just more comfortable with it, I sat on my friends bike that didnt have them and it just didnt feel right, and you could always get the pro taper contours (1 1/8) for like $60

It's the bend not the type of bar.

yeah it still felt real low, and your probably right cause i run cr mid bend and his bars had a real low bend.

The twin walls are the strongest bars outhere but they also transimt alot of vibration into your arms. I use OS bars befause it makes the cockpit feel a bit more open.

So would it be fine to get 7/8 bars or is it worth the money to get big bars?

So would it be fine to get 7/8 bars or is it worth the money to get big bars?

Its all rider preference. If you like the looks of fat bars and would like more strength while being better at dampening vibration and a little more flex, get them. I personally feel that I get less arm pump with my EVO's than I did when I had standard bars. (I wouldn't get the Twin-Walls, they are stiff as heck and my friend snapped the end off of his in a crash that would have just bent a set of standard oversize bars. I like the EVO's)

If you have the money, get the fat bars; if not, 7/8" bars work just fine for less cost.

Its all rider preference. If you like the looks of fat bars and would like more strength while being better at dampening vibration and a little more flex, get them. I personally feel that I get less arm pump with my EVO's than I did when I had standard bars. (I wouldn't get the Twin-Walls, they are stiff as heck and my friend snapped the end off of his in a crash that would have just bent a set of standard oversize bars. I like the EVO's)

If you have the money, get the fat bars; if not, 7/8" bars work just fine for less cost.

I do like the look of the evos and have the money, I just don't know if it would be worth it to spend $130 to get fat bars and a bar adapter or just stick with 7/8 bars and have $70 left over to spend on something else.

I don't know about vibration, but I got the tusk adapters (they are fine for the job, just as good as others) and RENTHAL TWIN WALL bars. I wouldn't waste money on just a simply oversized bar. All or nothing here. If you want strength, get the twinwalls.

Why get big bars if your bike isn't set-up for big bars???? I've broken them too. I say get a good set of bars that fit your bike and save your money...

Yes I use 1 1/8" pro taper bars but my bike was set-up with big bars.

renthal fat bars...i went from fat bars to twinwall and now back to fat bars. the twinwalls kill you!the fat bars seem to soak up alot of the vibration with alot of strength.

So would it be fine to get 7/8 bars or is it worth the money to get big bars?
I always use 7/8 bars. The current set has been on my bike for several years, and has been through several pretty hard crashes without bending.

I dont think I would run twin-walls, they're actually too strong. I watched Jeremy McGrath break his top clamp without bending the twin-walls, and I've also seen that happen once at a local track. I would rather replace the bars than the clamp.

To anybody that asks why I use renthal handlebars, this is why. This happened out of nowhere. The bars were stock on a brand new bike (renthals). I did fall before they snapped, but absolutely nothing major (slow tip over). So I'm riding at a track, jump a small (30') double and the back wheel is slightly behind where it should be (not quite enough to be considered "casing") and the left side of my bars just snap. No resistance AT ALL. I could have EASILY gauged my arm with the jagged remains of the bar or fallen and screwed up alot of bike parts, but I was lucky. I grabbed the clutch (hanging down by the cable-attached to the snapped off section of bar) and killed the bike, pushed it off the track, and got new bars. I rode for less than 2 hours that day. Lesson learned. NEVER again will I make that mistake. $130 is definately worth the investment to me. Had I screwed my arm up, I'd be in for way more than that in hospital bills (if it was that bad).

firstswitchback010.jpg

I guarantee that your handlebar was damaged before it broke. Any aluminum bar will snap if there is a sufficient stress riser in the tube from a nick, ding or bend in the tube, which is generally crash related. You should always replace a bent aluminum bar and never try to straighten one. Rebending aluminum makes it very brittle.

I've been running 7/8 Renthals since they first came out in 1980. They are the best 7/8 bar on the market. They are easier to bend than 1" bars but they flex more and that reduces vibration.

Love my Pro-taper contours!

Renthal 7/8's would always bend

haven't bent a Pro-taper yet!

And yes, the bike tends to go down a lot.....:thumbsup:

imo 7/8s bars are crap ive bent a brand new pair of renthals the first crash I took on them. I personally like protapers 1 1/8th contour. But the renthal twinwall has a warranty and will replace a set of twinwalls if they bend or break(so ive heard)

i like 7/8 better because they are cheap, lol

pro taper big bars r the best i have them on all my bikes

To anybody that asks why I use renthal handlebars, this is why. This happened out of nowhere. The bars were stock on a brand new bike (renthals). I did fall before they snapped, but absolutely nothing major (slow tip over). So I'm riding at a track, jump a small (30') double and the back wheel is slightly behind where it should be (not quite enough to be considered "casing") and the left side of my bars just snap. No resistance AT ALL. I could have EASILY gauged my arm with the jagged remains of the bar or fallen and screwed up alot of bike parts, but I was lucky. I grabbed the clutch (hanging down by the cable-attached to the snapped off section of bar) and killed the bike, pushed it off the track, and got new bars. I rode for less than 2 hours that day. Lesson learned. NEVER again will I make that mistake. $130 is definately worth the investment to me. Had I screwed my arm up, I'd be in for way more than that in hospital bills (if it was that bad).

firstswitchback010.jpg

I've acually heard this is quite common for these bars to do and have heard a couple stories about this happening here on thumper talk. I think you have to inspect where the bar is clamped in and look for cracks. I had a pair on my yz and my dad noticed that they had a crack after one summer of ridding the dunes so he took them off and got me a pair of evo's like his.

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