180maj or 200maj?????

After Burned told me that I should be more satisfied with my suspention, I called RG3 and they said no problem lets redo it. So, while the subframe is off, should I put the 200maj back in??? I am currently running full Yoshi with opened up air box, 38pj, 73paj (adjustable air screw), 180maj, 158main, EMM C-4, and no coast enrichment. The jetting seems to be perfect and I don't know what a 200maj will do over the 180maj. I know a lot of you running the advanced jetting have gone back to the 200. Could you tell a difference going back to the 200? The WR400 crew seems to be going the other way with a 160maj, and that confuses me since we have the same carb. Also, my fuel screw is at 2.75 turns out so I will turn in the adjustable air screw about a 1/16 of a turn right? I run at 3000' most of the time but do sea level once or twice a year and 3000-7000 every now and then too. Does that sound correct, turn in about 1/16 turn?

the only reason the mullet miltia is doing that is becuase tafyy told them to.originally he was telling people to remove the maj completely and that was best and had been tested blah blah blah!than he had some sort of epiphany and next thing you know its wa s best to go to a 160!

ive tried smaller maj in my bike and it makes it rev slower at higher rpm.imho the 200 maj is correct.in theory the larger maj will atomize the fuel better.

And the EKP was THE NEEDLE. Uh, just ride the bike.........

If these folks would spend half their time making THEMSELVES a better rider, they'd ride MUCH faster in the long run.

To get to 2.5 turns out from 2.75 you turn the fuel screw IN. "Right and left" depends on your perspective(top of screw or the bottom)

I had a 180MAJ with a 160MJ and it seemed a little rich for where I ride (hot summer around 1,000 feet and below).

I decided to go back to the 200MAJ and down to a 158MJ. I noticed some improvement, BUT I made 2 changes and that isn't a valid test.

I always seem to have a bad habit of making multiple changes when tuning. I guess I need to quit that.

My bike runs REALLY well off idle all the way up through the mid range. My top end is the only thing I would like to improve on now. It's good, but I think it could be improved. Maybe my bike is still a little rich at wide open throttle?

BTW, it's a 436, look at the sig for details....

this is only my 2 cents! but check it out

I will try to post this chart soon!

The sudco catolog has a FCR tuning guide that describes each fuel circuit and what throttle position is affected by it. they are very adjustable and easy to get way off base. the chart describes the needle codes and the dimension that each letter represents. there are basicly 3 circuits that deliver fuel from idle through full throttle. the main air and pilot air correction jets can be used to move the overlap points of these circuits.

Going over this chart and learning how your carb works will help a bunch in learning what jets to run.

What works for one might not work for you.

jets are cheap buy a couple and try em record your results and you will figure it out. Only change 1 thing at a time and determine what jet by throttle position not speed gear or rpm

some basics a rich bike will cold start great and run worse as it gets hot

A lean bike is a bear to cold start and gets better with heat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now