87 250 wr suggest a selling price

i have a 87 husqvarna 250 wr with a 88 engine code. whats wrong: SEM stator coil burnt out (open between black and green), exhaust pipe has some good dents in the neck behind the front tire, missing headlight(has plastic). the good : good shocks, new front tire, 1/2 to 3/4 rear tire, good plastic, good seat, great compression. receips for alot of stuff(including top end). i have a guy interested (from far away, involves shipping) but i'll feal that out. whats this bike worth????? will post pictures sunday evening.

open to other offers though

It's really hard to set a price on a 20 year old dirt bike. I have done restorations in the past and they have sold for a lot less than I have into them. Everything is market driven. If there is a demand for the bike, the price will be much higher. It really comes down to what a guy is willing to pay for it now that the economy is in the toilet and we have an unknown taking over the white house. A clapped out, not running bike is best sold for parts in my opinion. Evil bay or some local guy trying to make another bike live is your best choice. You might even try craigslist.

Shipping through Forward Air is you best bet. I ahve used them in the past and they have special crates for motorcycles and all you do is roll them in and tie them down. Works great.

I hope this helps a little? Husky's are great bikes and I wish you luck.


Sold this one for $500, needed a top end but it still started up, ran through all gears, needed tires, sprockets, chain but other than that pretty clean.


That is a nice looking 87 husky. I am sure the new owner is a happy camper. That seems like a reasonable price for a bike in that condition. Mike

i didn't pay much for the bike but this guy wants it so bad that i was thinking it was a sought after bike. he may be just trying to scam me we'll see.... i have no problem buying a coil for it and just riding it.

i didn't pay much for the bike but this guy wants it so bad that i was thinking it was a sought after bike. he may be just trying to scam me we'll see.... i have no problem buying a coil for it and just riding it.

If its an SEM the whole ignition is bad, not just the coil.

so if this startor coil is junk, the CDI/ignition coil is junk too?? sorry cant figure out how to upload pictures... never used photobucket :thumbsup:


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By 305hestbeck
      So I just sold my bike 2017 TC250 with only 17 hours on it. When it left it was in brand new condition. But 2 days later the engine cases were being split.
      Turns out the Idler gear had snapped off during the new owner’s first ride. Of course I am not paying for the fix as one it is clearly a manufacturing defect. I told him If needed I would help by me claiming it as warranty issue.
      Anyways I did some research and discovered that the KTM/Husky expected a 6x12 to hold the idler gear sys together on 2017.
      Well this seems to be an issue and KTM did fix it for the 2018 models. They actually updated the whole Idler gear sys, but if you still have a 2017 2 stroke the fix before it happens which it could on the first kick would be to replace the bolt with a 6x20.
      You will have to tap the hole for more treads. Actually the 2018 engine case was also updated for this and that’s all they did.
      I own a 2018 TX300 now. One reason why I looked into it. 
      Just thought I would share.

    • By Tranos07
      Greetings to everyone. After a lot of searching I finally decided to join this forum in order to finally find a solution to my problem. Here's my story. Bought in a hurry an sm610 2005 (cylinder with the small tensioner) which wouldn't start cold. Only if I connected it to a car battery would it start but not always and not easy. Got a new 14amp battery and nothing. Spark plugs,starting spray etc nothing worked out. If the engine was cold it would start in an instant very very easily. Took it to a mechanic he told me that it had no compression so he grinded the valves. When I got there to take it back he told me that my pick up coil was in bad condition and needed to be replaced in order to start cold. Of course nothing changed after the valve job and after 5 hours of riding(not constant) my new head gasket blew and when I took it apart I found a crack in the water passage on my head right next to the blown up spot on my gasket. I don't know if it was already cracked or if it cracked after gasket blew all I know is that it was tightened properly as I was in front when this happened. I'm just trying to figure out why i can't get it to start cold. All answers are welcome. I had the head fixed and I'm ready to reassemble the engine. Could the pick up coil actually be responsible for this? Another thing I noticed. My tensioner had an apostate welded up to it so i needed a new cam chain as well as a new tensioner. I have these. Could the ruffled chain be in charge? The engine was perfect when hot starting and working like a charm. Please someone help as I'm ready to take the damned thing and throw it into the ocean.
      PS is the pick up coil from an lc4 engine compatible?

    • By birdland101
      Restored 1974 honda xr75 original motor and frame podercoated frame runs, looks, shifts, stops good. top end rebuild many new parts most all honda. email birdland101@hotmail.com.
    • By Jawehangwe
      2017 Husqvarna TX, TE, FE, 125, 250, 300, 350, 450, 501

      Greatly reduced arm pump and fatigue
      Increase rear wheel traction while standing under acceleration
      Create a seat bounce effect when jumping standing up
      Shave seconds off your lap times
      Light weight and adjustable
      Easy to install
    • By MotoXRacer_19
      As I was inspecting my new-to-me bike that I just purchased, I noticed there is a grove on the back side of my front brake rotor that goes completely around it, and you can feel it with your finger nail. I have noticed some poor performance, but I figured it was because of the new pads that the previous owner installed just before I bought it hadn't seated yet. However, I've ridden a couple times and it doesn't seem to get much better, if any better at all. Is that enough to explain why when I pull in the brake as hard as I can, it only slows me down a little, instead of going into a stoppie and over the bars (as I wish it would)?
      Should I look into buying a brand new rotor?
      I have no pictures of it, I'll try to post some when I can.