2002 Rm250

Just picked her up for CHEAP. Im fairly new to dirtbiking but do have full gear and ALOT of street experience.

Im looking to get feedback regarding what to do to get this girl in tip top shape.

The previous owner said the topend/piston was replaced last year.

my plan is:

Replace oil, air filter, sprockets/chain, replace fork seals, brake fluid, anti-freeze, maybe clean the carb, check out the muffler packing.

What else? I really need an owners manual and shop manual for this bike.

All suggestions are appreciated. AND what is a new bike thread without pics?!





Generally speaking I have found my '02 RM250 to be extremely reliable. So as far as the 2002 RM250's go, there's really nothing that needs to have "extra" attention.

Now from what your pictures show, I would say that this bike has been ridden hard... A ripped seat and leaking fork seals always make me question how much abuse the previous owner dished out.

I personally would install a new piston, rings and wrist pin bearing in it "just in case" last year really wasn't 2 or 3 years ago. Beyond that, do the stuff that you mentioned and you'll be in good shape.

Congratulations on your new stead!!

Thanks for the quick reply! Glad to hear your 02 rm250 has been reliable. Also, thanks for commenting that pics look like it was ridden hard. I posted them so that peeps would make comments like that.

The story the guy gave me is he lived in CA, is ex-military, and rode alot to the point of almost racing. I wonder if he did actually race since the shocks/forks have tags with his name on them specifiying the spring rate, fluid level etc...and his name is all over the plastics. Im pretty sure it has not been ridden much since 2005 when he moved from CA to OK. My other options were mid to early 90's models. I LOVE to negotiate and acutally talked him down from $1500 to $1050. Good deal in my book.

Ok who has the .pdf manual for this sucker or know where i can buy one? I really want to change the oil and get the maintenace caught up tomorrow...:thumbsup:

Looking forward to more replies and feedback.

One of the first things i do with a used bike is obtain a thread in compresion gauge and see what she reads @

"just in case" last year really wasn't 2 or 3 years ago.
. A leak down test is always good. I like to take the pipe off and look at the ring seal also.

Some times when i get a pice of dirt or sand stuck in a fork seal I do the old film negitive/fuler guage trick to purge the debree out, some guys do it as regular matinence.

I've bought some used bikes les than a year old that were religously presure washed and all the bearings were smoked. Its good practice to tare dowm all moving bearings/bushings and regrease.

Nice bike, $1,050..... nice buy

do everything you mentioned and i would change the suspension fluids and get new cables and break pads, look at the clutch, along with some nice Rockstar Makita graphics =)

congrats on your buy!

Ok for some reason i cant find a free .pdf of the owners manual or shop manual online. Ordered one this morning but doesnt help me right now heh.

I was told put 10/40 oil in it. My other two stroke uses 80wt. The dude at the shop informed me that 80wt is 10/40. So here i am about to put in .75 liter of Castrol TTX full synthetic 80wt in.

Oh yeah, wha are the good suzuki rm and motocross forums?

Where do ya'll mostly buy your rm parts online?

Again, thanks for all comments and feedback!

For $1,050 you can not go wrong. That gives you some room to fix a few things.

If my foot wasn't in a cast right now I would go out to the barn and take a picture of all the pistons that I've replaced in my '02 RM250. Most of them were fine compression wise, but all of them were ready to be replaced. Give me another week by then I should be able to walk out to the barn and snap a few pictures.

Bottom line, unless you are sure of the age of the piston ~ buy a new one. Compression checks are fine but do not always tell the whole story. And really, you got a smoking deal on the bike so put some of the saved cash back into it, it will pay dividens.

Manual wise, I personally have never found a pdf online manual. I just went to the dealership and bought the original owners manual. I recommend that you do the same.

In the motorcycle world, 80w and 10w40 is the same. For trail riding, I recommend using Spectro 80w.


If you like a clutch that grabs hard, consider their 10w30.



I picked up a used 2001 RM 250 a few years ago and rebuilt the whole bike. My RM is awesome. I ride it more then my RMZ.

When I got it, the bike was clapped out. I went a little crazy and probably dropped 2500 bucks rebuilding a 1500 bike, but it's pretty cool.

Here is what I did:


New Bars and grips

New ASV brake and clutch levers


New top end

Install engine hour meter


Vforce 3 reed cage


New Vortex front and rear sprockets (13/48) combo

New chain


Had a FMF Gnarly pipe and silencer already.

Repack silencer.

Replace springs and o-ring


New steel brake lines


Install Rad guards.


Clean/repack and or replace all bearings:

Front/rear wheel

shock bearing


swing arm

Dropped off front and rear at suspension shop for new race tech springs and valves in the front and rear.

Here is the link to the rebuild






I went a little overboard but it was worth it. I think the things that made the biggest difference on my bike was the reed cage, suspension, steel brake lines (better braking) and interestingly the new bars and ASV levers. Good luck and have fun. Nothing is better then rolling up to the track on your new pimped out RM 250.

I've got a PDF manual for an 03 RM 250 if you need it. The exhaust valve, and linkage are different then the 02 but most of the other parts are the same.

Also, I bought most of my parts from motosports.com, rocky mountain atv, and pit posse. I went to bikebandit.com for OEM parts. If the don't have the online parts diagrams you can still order by part number if you call them.

lovely 01!

Thanks for your response!

Today i lubed up the chain, replaced oil, anti-freeze, gas, plug, oil filter. Took her for a ride to make sure everything is in order. Seems to run very well and is much more nimble than my other older dirtbike.

Tomorrow morning im pulling the forks off and taking them in to get the seals replaced, replacing chain/sprockets/rear tire.

Tonight am ordering missing body panel bolts and a few worn rubber pieces.

I have the manual on the way. Thanks though.

any suggestions on the seat? Do they sell just the covers?

Will post more pics as things progress :thumbsup:

A good price, but it looks like it has been ridden hard and put away wet.

The rule of thumb that most 2T guys agree on is that when you buy a "new-to-me" bike is just go ahead and replace the top end. It's cheap insurance and it gives you a chance to check out the inside of the motor. If I had to guess I would say that the bike was raced more than a few times. Once you get your manual go over the bike with a fine toothed comb and regrease everything.

From looking at your chain, the bike has been riden hard. It would not be a bad idea to replace the top end just like zig06 said.....If the previous owner said it had a top end last year, it would need another top end.... in 6 rides i put about 19-22 hrs on my bike and every 25 hours your supposed to do the top end.

Went over bike and ordered all missing nuts/bolts/washers/etc...and a few worn rubber bits. Forks are in the shop getting fully serviced. Tomorrow new sprockets and chain and more pics.

Im planning to do the topend with all the suggestions. Have to do it on that old air cooled you see there too so will do it first as a warm up heh.

Keep the comments and suggestions comming!



2 hours ago:


The other day i changed the oil, anti-freeze, spark plug..

2 hours up until now did:

put on the forks(fully gone through new seals/bushings/fluid)

new front/rear sprockets, new chain

new dunlop 765's and tubes/stems

cleaned/lubed front/rear wheel bearings

blead/flushed front/rear brakes

noticed the motor mount that attaches to the top of the motor is missing one of the triangles...

In the next couple weeks will do the top-end, new plastics/graphics, brake pads, new handlebars and grips...

Any other suggestions or comments? :thumbsup:


i think i have the manual or is it or the 03 ? il try to send

great price by the way!! got mine for $900

ahh cant send

Looks like you did alright to me...I have seen worse .Get a seat cover from like rocky mt. or look at your graphics on your bike that company sales them also...lol..Looks like your doing well

Glad you did the forks and wheels.

Maybe consider just pulling the graphic off of the gas tank (the one that's all ready pealing off). Leave the rad shroud graphics on. And then get a seat cover. If not, your going to mess up the seat foam and then your going to have to buy a cover and foam.

get like a graphics kit that includes a seat cover and a new top end etc....


Looks like a nice project. How about the shock? I'd think about changing the fluid and getting it recharged.

I would do the top end including reeds. Clean up the power valve really good as they can get pretty gummed up. Also grease or replace all bearings and bushings in the rear suspension and swingarm. You will be amazed how much better the bike works when all of that is greased up and working properly.

If you want to replace Pivot Works makes a pretty good kit. I would get all of the mechanical stuff sorted then work on prettying it up.

Looks like a nice project. How about the shock? I'd think about changing the fluid and getting it recharged.

Yes i got to thinking about that while riding the Stillwater 500 today. At the least, i will have the psi checked. If its close to spec ill have them spec it and call it good. If not, its getting serviced too.

Rode the bike alot today. Went down alot(tight steep tree filled trails) and killed it alot. It starts easy and did not let me down while riding aprox 30 miles of trails.

Will post more pics as parts arrive!

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