Removing return cable

Could anybody tell me exactly what removing the return throttle cable does? I have always thought two cables sucked big time....

Thanks

Randy

That return cable is there as a safety feature. If for some reason the throttle sticks open, that cable allows you to force the throttle forward/closed. They fray and get all screwed up and cause the throttle to stick open half the time. As soon as that starts to happen, just remove the cable.

Gee that kinda sounded funny. First you say it is a safety feature and then you say remove it.

How about we check the poor alignment that suzuki did and correct that with a little hand filing or maybe a dremel grinder, put a little grease on it and check it ounce in a while.

The replacement cables have a teflon or plastic sheath over the cable to keep it from fraying in the future.

Mine is the original. Thanks to this forum I corrected the porblem soon enough and it is doing fine with 2,500 miles on it.

Lots of folks just remove it and don't worry about it but I figure it isn't a bad idea to leave it stock.

My 2 cents

Greg

Yeah, mine is still going fine (with proper alignment & lubrication like EZGZ's) and I have almost 3,800 miles. However, I did have it bind on me once and cause the throttle to SLOWLY return to idle. This was not fun. When it starts to fray, I'm gonna yank it. I had a helluva time trying to find a new throttle tube that will accept both cables(smooth one that my grip heaters would stick to since the stock one has ridges.) I ended up filing the stock tube smooth. PITA!

I think the consensus here is to yank them when they start giving you trouble. Some 'safety' features I think are brought about by people with nothing better to do, out there to 'protect' us cause we're too stupid (in their minds) to make conscious, informed decisions by ourselves. (Sorry, the libertarian got out of the closet there for a moment.) :)

Hey it doesn't make sense to me, but I've heard some people claim that the push-pull setup actually makes the throttle pull easier. Like I said, it sounds like a good story...

Anyway, EZGZ, what exactly did you do to mod the alignment on the cables? Any quick tips?

I pulled mine on the klx to use a quick throttle and carry only one extra cable for the trail spare. no problems for 5 years. The downside is I had to custom build them. Guys in the one post I was in went from "no way would I remove it" to "who cares?" Personal preference I suppose.

Well I thank you for the info....Sounds like I will leave mine alone until it frays and then go aftermarket...

Thank you all

Randy

When it frays...yank it. Much smoother pull without it. Clean your carb and cables to prevent sticking.

... Safety device schmafety device. :) I know.. I know... Ill be quiet....

2 Cables=2 friction areas. Mine have been removed on all my bikes.You will have to intall a washer in the tube to get the one cable to stay in place. A rubber plug will cover the hole in the boot to keeg dirt out.

Uhhh...ever try to push something with a rope? It's redundant in the event of a throttle return spring failure. I greased mine and it still looks fine but if it starts to fray, it's outta there. IMO, trying to push a cable is partly the reason for the fraying problem. On mine, when I twist the throttle then let it go, the return cable momentarily gets bowed as the throttle tries to "push" it back into tube, forcing it hard against the edge of the tube. I think this is what causes the fatigue and eventual failure of the cable strands.

I started having the occasional "hanging idle" syndrome awhile back and ignored it for awhile. I finally tore it apart to have a look last weekend and sure enough, the d&mn return cable was beginning to fray just where it exits the tube at the carb end. I have read that it is due to the throttle wheel rubbing on the cable, but it looked to me like the cable exits the adjuster at too much of an angle and rubs on the end of the tube all the time....which eventually eats through cable. I finished the job by cutting the ball off at the carb end of the cable and pulling the cable out from the throttle housing end. I left the outer sheath in place so I didn't have to improvise on sealing the boot at the throttle assembly. Oh yea, my bike actually feels a little lighter now too. :)

All I can say is I had a bad return cable stick on me so I removed it. I still almost lost it when my throttle stuck WFO with out it. I don't know why that happened but you run the risk by removing it. I run two cables because I ride way too fast to have that happen again. I'm am lucky I didn't get killed. :)

You're throttle stuck WFO??? Wow, I'll bet that was an experience. It seems like a lot of people are removing the return cable when it frays and forgetting about it. Are there any others out there that have had trouble with the slide not closing after removing the return cable? Now I'm concerned.

Thanks.

The bad part about the throttle sticking is I removed my kill button when I had the dual sport stuff on. I had to let go of the bars to reach the key switch. Thats when I found the return cable was bad. The second time I pulled the clutch in but it took a sec to think about it. It was muddy and I came out of a turn and punched it. I tried to back off before the ruts and make the next turn but the bike was on the power band and starting to slide. I didn't go down but I went home just the same. It took me 2 hours to clean my bike for a 10 min ride. The first thing I did is put the kill switch back on.

Suzuki wanted $50 for cables and they said it would take 1 1/2 weeks to get but I picked up a set @ Zoom for $29 in stock.

Mine was gone on day two. My safety device is the clutch and the kill switch, works every time.

I noticed that about a month after I rejetted my carb, the throttle started returning slowly. Do you think the cable is bad? I've lubed it, but it hasnt gotten any better. Also, what is the most sano way to remove it? Thanks!Mike

The throttle cable for the 2003 dr-z has an adjuster for the return cable part #58300-29F01

for the steering head top bearing the cap for older RM's has will fit over the top of the stock bearing if you enlarge the hole just a little ,it keeps the water out of the steering a lot better than the stock set up

the part # for the steering cap is 51643-28C00

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