Hot Start Cable Re-Route

Can anyone tell me the best way to re-route the hot start cable after installing the Dr. D lever?

Take the tank off and reroute it to the right side of the spar on the frame. Cable tie it to the throttle cables. Make sure that is doesn't get caught and has room when you turn the handlebars. Hope this works out for you.

I tried last night to re-route the cable under the tank and on the right side as stated above and by the time it clears the tank and turns up thru the triple clamps, it's not any shorter?

I'm thinking that the front brake is gonna have to slide over a bit to reach? Anyone have the hot start working, let us know how you did it. Thanks! :)

Mine reached with no problem.

I just pulled the tank off then just ran the cable up the left side of the frame past and then too the right side. It reached no prob.

I rerouted mine under and around the right side of the tank. It was still too short to actually follow the path as the throttle cable, so i ran it under the top triple clamp bolt just under the number plate tab. Any other way and it it opened the valve when the bars were turned full left.

I just flipped mine over to the other side with no problems. The only difference is it's on the other side of the bolt that holds the # plate on.

Alright I'm still a 4stroke spode, why do you all want to do this? Is is so you can operate the clutch and hot-start at the same time?

Two reasons. You can operate both at the same time, but you have to think about, it's easier when you don't have to use the same fingers. More important is the quality of the stock contraption, it's a cheesy piece of junk that's totally out of character with the rest of the bike. I couldn't stand the lever rattling, I already had the WC perch from my YZ, but moving the hot start somewhere else is required. Both the WC and Dr. D work great, my dealer has the Dr. D in stock so that's what I used.

I am with throttlejockey, I just swaped it over by the handle bars no problem. I added the Dr. D because the stock perch broke and this happened to be the only way that I could use a regular clutch pertch to make the weekend. Turns out I was able to use my easy pull from my old bike, and I love the way the hot start is now, it is easier and more convenient. Not to bad of an outcome from an emergency fix.

I just flipped mine over to the other side with no problems. The only difference is it's on the other side of the bolt that holds the # plate on.

I bet if you check the adjustment and turn the handlebars to the stop on the right and look youll see that the cable is tight and is likely openeing the circuit. I obviously tried that first and found that at full lock the cable was acutauting. Its more that just flipping it over the number plate bolt because on the original clutch mount the cabel is on the same side of the steering head as the lever. On the right side the cabel must bend around the sterring head causing it to be taught and actuating the circuit.

It's not tight on my bike at full lock either way. Works fine.

I bet if you check the adjustment and turn the handlebars to the stop on the right and look youll see that the cable is tight and is likely openeing the circuit.

Mine does not do that. That's the first thing I checked.

Should I take pictures?

Here's the routing I will pioneer; Rip the whole "hot-start" shebang off the bike, walk out to the dumpster, and expertly toss it in. Ahhh...If this "Power Now" works the way it has been for me, there is absolutely no need for a hot-start system, at all! Read the reports. I kicked mine over lots of times the other night without using the hot-start, with and without the bike in gear! Yes, I'm grinning about it. My filter was on the dirty side, too!! When I get my freakin' hub replaced, I'll continue to challenge the Power Now, and let everybody know. So far, so very good. :)

Alrighty Then, here is what I came up with. I think there are different ways to route the cable because different people are using different bars/clamps/trees. I have the stock Tree/Tag Clamps/Pro-Taper Hi CR bars. I tried to just to just swap the cable from the left side to the right side of the handlebar..It would bind. I ended up re-routing it over the breather tube, under the gas tank to the right side of the frame, between the radiator & frame (not along with the throttle cables) and then between the upper and lower trees. Works fine! Thanks for all of your input.

I totally agree with 5150 CRFR! Different handlebar/clamps combo, different routings!

I've a Protaper and definately had to re-route the cable under the tank on the right side of the frame otherwise it was opening the circuit at full right turns!

I have Pro-taper Honda hi-bend w/stock clamps and the cable reached. Go figure. :)

where do you get the MP air bleeder?

03 450f with everything i see!

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