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In over my head: re-jet & re-valve ('00S)

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I was bummed on Saturday when my Dynojet didn't arrive. But when USPS rang my doorbell on SUNDAY morning, I was stoked (big thanks to Jesse at Keintech).

That happy feeling turned to disgust yesterday, first when I had to drill out one of the screws holding the diaphram cover, second when I noticed that the o-ring that's somewhere inside the needle thingy melted away (note to self: carb cleaner & rubber doesn't mix), and finally when I got it all apart, I lost one of the spacer washers that goes on the needle (the "lowest" one on the needle).

So here I am, trying to put the bike together for my first decent attempt at a hairscramble on Saturday, and it's still in pieces.

At this point I need a new washer, rubber o-ring, and a replacement screw for the top cover. I haven't even gotten around to changing the rest of the jets, at this point I'm afraid to mess with it.

I was running the Baja Designs jet-kit, and I couldn't find my original jets. I asked Jesse to throw some in; he sent a 142.5 & 27.5 (more thanks to Jesse). But isn't the 22.5 stock? I'm feeling lost...

I don't even want to talk about the shock. I got the new spring on, and I'm leaving it at that for now. I should've paid somebody the extra $35 to have them do the re-valve for me.

Sorry for the long post, just doing a little venting. Guess I gotta go to the dealer and see if I can get some replacement carb parts.

If you wanna throw any helpful hints or just positive motivation, I'll take it :)

Thanks,

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Dude, I can't help you, but you helped me. I have the dj kit on order and have been going back and forth about whether to tackle it myself for the first time or take it to the dealer for an extra $60. $60 sounds cheap now. Good Luck.

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That sucks man.There is nothing worse than breaking/loosing parts right before a race,but if your luck is anything like mine,it probably wont be the last :D.Look on the bright side,at least your not in a mud hole,in a snow storm,in a T shirt,20 miles from the truck,up hill,both ways :),sorry man,just trying to cheer ya up :D.We've all been there,good luck!

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here. I'll cheer you up.

You're actually not nearly as much of an idiot as I am (although I was smart enough to have a friend who knows what he's doing re-jet my bike).

Yesterday, while intending to open the air bleeder caps to let the air out of my forks, I wasn't paying attention and started turning the damping clicker instead. Didn't realize till I'd snapped the head right off the fragile clicker screw, leaving the body of the screw in the fork cap, my suspnsion on the hardest damping setting, and leaving me...screwed!!! now what the f&ck am I gonna do?

Feel better?

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NYC DRZ you should be able to loosen the top triple clamp, remove the fork cap and get to that screw to replace.

For those of you doing jetting, it really is fairly simple as long as you do a few things: 1) have a clean work area where if you do drop a part, you'll be able to find it. 2) Pay attention to detail. I write descriptions of where parts go, or take pics with my digi camera while taking something apart so that I have a record of how it was before I started. The absolute hardest part of changing the jetting is getting the carb out of the bike! After that, it's pretty easy. While you have the carb out, replace those chintzy screws holding the bowl on with allen-head bolts. This will make it way easier the next time you need to get into the carb. I get so much satisfaction out of working on my bike. The only time I would take to a mechanic would be for warranty work. Otherwise, I'd rather learn it myself.

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Michael,

I like to call those nasty little events (like snapping a screw, stripping a bolt, or losing a spring) a Spoiler. Sometimes, my Wife will come out to the garage, and ask "any Spoilers?" (sometimes, I dan't answer...grrrr!..)

If you don't have one, buy the service manual & parts fiche. The service manual is good for how-to's, and I refer to the fiche for the exploded diagrams. The fiche will show you the order that all the parts fit together.

If you can't afford the manuals, I can email you sections you need..

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Here's another "spoiler" I had last night that turned a 5 minute oil change into a 30 minute nightmare. After draining the oil, I went to screw the frame tube drain bolt back in. Dropped it right down the hole into my BD skidplate. Had to remove skidplate to get it out. Arghhh. Must have been smoking something!

:)

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Hey Drew or others - haven't taken the fork cap off yet, does the bottom of the clicker screw protrude below the thread on the underside of the cap so I can easily get it out? Or should I order a whole new cap as well as screw?

The head of the screw snapped clean off, so there's no way I can do anything from the top.

(say aloud three times with co-workers around -- "I am fah king we todd did.") :)

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It is connected to the damper rod. You'll see it when you get it apart. Loosen the top triple clamp so that it doesn't impinge (sp?) on the fork cap and then remove that. You will then see that you can put a wrench through the spring and onto the other end of the fork cap. You'll want a little piece of wire or something to wrap around the damping rod and maybe tie it to the spring to keep it from dropping back into the fork tube. You may also need to slightly compress the fork to have enough play room to get to everything. Once you have the fork cap off, you'll just have to experiment on how to remove the broken screw. I think it will be protruding from the back of the fork cap and it should be pretty simple to get to. Regarding the fork cap; the torque for this is only 16.5 ft/lbs. Lots of people crank on this unnecessarily. Also, IMPORTANT. Make sure the newly installed adjuster screw is backed all the way out before installing the fork cap, then set the screw to the desired setting.

The upper triple clamp pinch bolts should be torqued to 21.5 ft/lbs and the lower (if you loosen it) should be torqued to 23 ft/lbs.

Make sure you have the bike on a stand before starting.

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Thanks Drew

the "moron-proof" instructions are much appreciated!!! :D(i.e., put bike on stand, don't drop damper rod down into forks, don't overtighten stuff, etc.) Otherwise, you can be sure what I would do! (actually, I'll probably still do it, but hey, at least you tried) :)

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I have taken more than a few carbs off of cycles But my drz had the most stubborn screws I have ever worked on !had to remove 3 with vicegrips on the bowl. top ones were tight tight but got them out.I hate marring the head so I replaced the bottom screws.but the dealer didn't have the same type plateing so they dont match stock .GRRRR :)

and the room to remove carb is a little tighter than what I'm used too.

remember pull the filter boot away from the carb first.dont worry about manhandling it ,it rubber its tough. I also removed regulator/rectifier (pretty sure that what it is)to give me some xtra room and it's ok to use a few swear word to help it slip out more easly :D :D

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I did like many others and replaced the carb screws with allen head screws from the hardware store. The originals on my E have a Torx head and they came out OK but access is limited-better with Allen wrench.

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Don't feel bad NYC, I was doing a big bore kit on my DR and dropped a circlip into the motor.

My wife was out so I had one brat in the playpen and one running around drooling on things. The one in the playpen was screaming bloody murder and the only time in my life I don't put a rag in the case I drop a clip.

I turned the bike upside down and it didn't come out so I took the motor out. I danced around with it until the clip fell out.

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Cool, then it's not just MY carb that's the biggest PITA ever. I already replaced the float bowl screws with some cool blue allen head screws. I'm becoming a carb-screw drill-out/grind-out expert.

Supposedly this will all be worth it some day.....

toms, thanks for the offer of manual/fiche copies. I've got the service manual (which is useless for this stuff); the parts fiche sounds like another "tool" for the toolbox.

Thanks again guys,

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