03 cam on my 2002

Hello ...............new 2002 owner wondering what a 03 cam will cost me to get installed ,not sure if I tackle it cam price and what 2 hrs labor? Thanks

from my experience in converting my wrf over to yzf timing, swapping the cam takes about 45 minutes to an hour. BUT BUT BUT you absolutely positively need a 'low range' 1/4" drive torque wrench to properly tighten the cap bolts on the cam retainers. the yamaha spec is 7.2 ft-lbs, no more no less. your 1/2" torque wrench is not going to be even close to accurate at this torque. if you have a 3/8" torque wrench i would proceed with extreme caution as it too is likely out of the range for the job.

unfortunately, as several folks have found out, mis-torquing the cam cap bolts is hazardous to your engine and dangerous to your wallet. i'm not trying to dissuade you from doing the cam job youself -- hundreds (thousands?) of WRF(250/400/426) owners have done the cam job with only a few documented screw-ups. there really isn't too much to go wrong. just wrap the frame in saran wrap before you start, lube the cam with engine oil before you put it back together, and then use a proper range torque wrench on the cap bolts. all will be well.

you can follow the WRF cam procedure here:


jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

would that be 86.4 inch pounds??????


yes; 7.2 ft-lbs X 12 in/ft = 86.4 in-lbs

this is good to know since most 1/4" drive "low range" torque wrenches are graduated in in-lbs.


i dig nice torque wrenches. it may actually be a fetish. i have two nice ones (1/4" and 3/8" drive) and one 'OK' one (1/2" drive). i've been trying to talk my father-in-law into buying me a nice 1/2" model for three straight christmas's now, but he isn't getting the message for some reason. like what else could be as important. :*)

my babies... ps: PROTO = Snap-On quality at 1/2 the price.

PROTO model 6062F 1/4" -- 40-200 in-lbs


PROTO model 6006F 3/8" -- 10-80 ft-lbs


some more torque wrench info from the RED TEAM board

jim aka the wrooster

'01 wr250f

ps: a nice pair of 1/4" drive PROTO's on ebay, w/no reserve:

ebay link

these puppies are about $125 EACH when new. :)

jim aka the wrooster

The cam swap is not worth taking to the dealer. I am not the most mechanically inclined person and it only took about 45 minutes to an hour. It took me more time to get the timing than any other part of the procedure.

Do it yourself. Just get the torque wrench like every one has suggested. One word of advice. IF you do it your self. When you get the engine to TDC. Use a marker or something and mark both pins on the cam chain on either side of the cam tooth with the dot at 12 o'clock. This makes it nice and easy to slap the cam in with out much thought. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY!!! Do this procedure on the intake cam also. I didn't remove my intake cam but while putting in the new exhaust cam, my intake cam jumped a tooth. I would have never noticed if I hadn't marked the pins. Just a little FYI that I hopes helps. Enjoy installing it yourself and save the mula for a couple beers!!!

yes; 7.2 ft-lbs X 12 in/ft = 86.4 in-lbs

I've been using 86 in-lbs when the manual calls for 7.2 ft-lbs, didn't want to over tighten so I always round downwards, is everyone using 86 or 87 in-lbs? When it calls for 86.5 or something x.5, do you round up or down? I'm thinking down is safer... :)


Your bolt will never know if it's 86.4, 86.0 or 87.0 using a torque wrench with 3% accuracy. I usually place the dial between the marks to get 86.5, but it's always safer to round down.

Sometimes you need to forget about using a torque wrench on very small bolts, such as the chain slider retaining bolts, oil line/strainer clamp, or where rubber and plastic are involved (they seem to deform before the specified torque is reached). The best laugh I've had is Yamaha wants us to torque the air filter's wing nut. :) Anybody got a torque wrench to fit that one?!


you're advice is always great, but you've unleashed a bidding war amongst fellow TTers for that once cheap torque wrench so we can all start installing the 03 cam... :)

My Sears inch-lbs (25-250) wrench goes for something like $70 or $80 - I forgot. Go online to http://www.sears.com and you'll find it (in case the price war goes too far)...

If the chain jumps a tooth dont panic. Just double check the TDC mark on the crank shaft and the punch marks on the cams ( lined up with the surface of the head) you should be good to go, Put your finger in the camchain tensioner hole to take up any slack and you will get a more accurate reading.

Good posts everyone. A few additions.

1) The Sears torque wrench is a 3/8" drive. It will work but as wrooster pointed out go slowly and be careful. With mine (I have the Sears) I usually torque to 5 ft lbs first on all then to 7.2 ft lbs.

2) It is not only important to torque properly but you must tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern so cam cap seats evenly across all lobes. Just like putting a tire back on a car. I usually hand tighten in a criss-cross pattern, torque to 5 in a criss-cross pattern starting on the same bolt, and then torque to 7.2 in a criss-cross pattern starting on the same bolt.

3) If you jump the timing chain go to the following link to time from scratch:


>1) The Sears torque wrench is a 3/8" drive. It will work but as wrooster pointed out go slowly and be careful.

I'm confused here. Why does the drive size make any difference? I was thinking the only thing that matters is the torque range (i.e 25-250 in/lbs). Why would a 1/4" drive torque a bolt any more accurately than a 3/8" drive?

Reason I'm wondering is that I have that exact same Craftsman torque wrench and I'm doing my cam install this evening. I've used that wrench for everything from oil changes on the 250F to the valve cover bolts on my car. Is there really a difference in the drive size?

Generally speaking, the 1/4" click torque wrench will go to a lower range and be more accurate. The bigger wrenches have a higher torque range and the extremes of them ranges aren't where they are most accurate or easy to feel the clicks. Another thing is the size. It's much easier to get my 1/4" wrench on some of the cam tower bolt heads.

Here is an old trick I used. Wrap a zip tie around the intake cam and chain before you remove the exhaust cam. Then there is no chance of it jumping a tooth.



Wished I'd of seen that little tip before hand. I had to redo timing from scratch due to chain jumping. That's what I get for wrenching with a bad hangover. :) (damn raiders) But I must agree with everyone else, definately the best mod to date. :D

Those are good tips. Also try leaving the spark plug in this will keep the engine from turning over so easily. also put your finger in the cam chain tensioner hole to remove the slack when checking the reference marks.

If it slips a tooth or three dont worrie, the chain doesnt care where it is as long as all three reference marks line up and there is not excessive slack between the cam sprockets.

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